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Zoo! Python 04 Brake Pad Spacing


nb88

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Hey all.....was just setting up my zoo! python 2004 frame and i noticed that with my ronnie rim theres a hell of a lot of space between the frame and side of rim - so even with my heatsinks with about 6mm of material left and my slave cylinders fully in, i still have to use a fat load of tpa on my rb lever and theres a lot of space between the pads and rim. I've got my chain tensioners on the inside of the frame due to the larrrrge space between the dropouts too.

Also - my chris king headset doesnt seem too smooth..... and the top bearing cap doesnt sit flush with the top headset cup. Is this most probably that the headset cup hasnt been installed properly? I bought the frame 2nd hand with the headset already installed.

Cheers.

Noz.

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With the pad spacing, what you can do is the "Overfill" bleed, which'll mean you have more fluid in the system so the pads will sit further out from the cylinders.

With regards the headset top cap: check out the top cup relative to the frame. If it's got a gap larger on one side than another, get it pressed in properly with a real headset press. Otherwise, make sure the bearings are seated correctly and so on...

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With the pad spacing, what you can do is the "Overfill" bleed, which'll mean you have more fluid in the system so the pads will sit further out from the cylinders.

How do you overfill it?

And ill check out my headset tomorrow cheers.

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To over fill it I think you can just get a mate to pull one of the cylinders out on the brake pad bit, and then it'll give you a bit more room to fill it full of blood or water or whatever.

My pads are ok on my Ronnie, in my 05 Python. It's not particuarly streight though.

But my frame's f**ked around the dropouts, so I'm not the best example

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To over fill it I think you can just get a mate to pull one of the cylinders out on the brake pad bit, and then it'll give you a bit more room to fill it full of blood or water or whatever.

My pads are ok on my Ronnie, in my 05 Python. It's not particuarly streight though.

But my frame's f**ked around the dropouts, so I'm not the best example

Sort of. You can exchange "a mate" for two screwdrivers, just putting one behind each pad and the cylinder body itself, so you pull the piston out more so you can get a larger volume into the system :) Can also do it another way that I can't fully remember how it works... but it has something to do with the lever being squeezed in at the end of the bleeding process, you doing the lever bolt up, then attaching the bleed tube + a full syringe to the slave, and letting the lever out so it sucks in an excess amount of water from the syringe. You've gotta do other stuff to for that to work though, but I can't remember what the hell I did :)

The screwdrivers way works best ;)

Mark

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I checked out the headset cups and they were in straight as far as i could see... To check i removed the cups and base plate and reinstalled them... now ive still got the same problem.

Basically the bearing cap for the top cup isnt sitting flush - one side sticks out more than the other. But i cant see why as the cup is seated correctly. Is it possible it could be due to the star nut not being in there properly? It looks as if it is but i could be wrong... I would just take it to my lbs and get them to face the headtube and sort it all out but i have no money (Y)

Also - when i tighten the headset up, its fine, then i tighten the stem bolts and it seems to adjust the headset :) - never had this happen before.... and it makes the headset go really stiff at one point - when i turn the bars more than 90 degrees basically.

Edited by Nozmeister
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Sounds like a bearing problem if it gets stiffer as you turn it.  Take off the circlip and remove the o-ring and have a look. 

Never heard of a Chris King Headset with bearing problems.

I might do but i think its just the bearing cap not sitting properly in the top cup thats the problem. when i spin the bearings with the stem etc off, they seem smooth and fine...

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Heres some pics...

kingheadset1.JPG

This pic doesnt show it so well but its the side which slants inward more into the cup than the other...

kingheadset2.JPG

You can pretty clearly see the slant in this one - the left is higher than the right, with a bigger gap between cup and bearing cap.

Is it possible the star nut could be causing this?

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Think ive found out the problem now....edd potts said on msn that it might be the stem so i turned the stem round on the forks a few times, and sure enough the 'dip' of the slant on the cap is always at the back of the stem....so it must be either the top cap (im using the slanted monty one), or the bottom of the stem not being flat.... ill file it down tomorrow and make sure its all groovy n post back (Y)

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Sorted now i filed the stem down a tiny bit so its flat and its perfect :lol: smooth as you like.

Do i need to grease the cups? Its sealed but im not sure if i should put some grease in there to seal it or anything?

Charz

nozman.

p.s. wrong account :">

Edited by ben
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Nooooo it keeps happening again  :rolleyes:  so annoying. when i tighten the stem it just makes the bearing cap slant over one side...

noori i told you you should have made sure you cut the steerer REALLY staright. its the only thing i can think if, yet you dont believe me that that matters! ha! get out the file.

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noori i told you you should have made sure you cut the steerer REALLY staright. its the only thing i can think if, yet you dont believe me that that matters! ha! get out the file.

i already filed it down yesterday and it didnt work :rolleyes: . And put a new star nut in, and filed down my stem slightly....still got the same problem.

I tried out dans stem though and the bearing cap seemed to go on straight, so i may have to purchase a zoo! stem...might be my super gay slanted monty top cap doing it.

Edited by Nozmeister
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noori i told you you should have made sure you cut the steerer REALLY staright. its the only thing i can think if, yet you dont believe me that that matters! ha! get out the file.

That wouldn't make any difference. The top cap shouldn't touch the top of the steerer tube, so that wouldn't affect it, and it wouldn't really affect the stem clamp too much.

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