Trials Punk Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 I have tensioned them so that the spokes move 0.5cm. But the threads on some spokes are still showing on the right hand side. About 2-3 threads. Will this be a problem on the front? What about the rear? And is half a cm movement for each spoke about the right tension? Cheers for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thechink Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 just losen the opposite side and tension them up so no spoke thread is showing. thechink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 The right hand side spokes are 2mm too short. Its not ideal, but might be ok. More chance of it dying on the rear than the front. Half a cm movement? Depends what rim, which spokes, and how much force you're applying to the spokes (basically, we cant tell, sorry). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trials Punk Posted May 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 (edited) Well I just built the rear wheel up and its the same, just not as bad. I guess I'll just settle on what I've got and hope they don't die on me. Cheers for the help guys. Edited May 11, 2005 by Trials Punk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobnobs Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Sorrying for stealing the topic, but i built my mates front wheel; laced correctly, right size spokes, everything hunky dory, but theres a nasty high spot which wont go away. Basically, no matter how tight the spokes are, the spot just will not go. Any idea whats wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 The rim is dead. Its not a Viz one, and the high spot is at the join, by any chance...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobnobs Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 (edited) Onza ronnie, it was brand new.... High spot was at the join indeed. Edited May 11, 2005 by Hobnobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Hmm, most pinned rims are a little stiffer at the join - and hence have a 'bulge'... but they always come out (in my experience). Got lube on the threads/nipples? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobnobs Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Would lube make a big difference? Its at a local wheelbuilder at the mo, apparently needs new nipples, and a complete rebuild, at the price of 30 pounds. :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Yeah, it does help. But not if the nipples have been rounded off... in that case, its going nowhere. £30 = :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobnobs Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Well, the nipples were fine when i built it, spinny smoothly, but it was taken to the lbs, where they fiddled, and couldnt do anything, so maybe they screwed the nipples. (Y) Lube it is next time :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 it was taken to the lbs, where they fiddled, and couldnt do anything ← I'd advise not to take it there again :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 (edited) I'd advise not to take it there again :- ← Ye most local bike shop suck... If I have to use one I just ask if I can borrow their tools. (Y) Edited May 11, 2005 by Freddie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad_gavo Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Ye most local bike shop suck... If I have to use one I just ask if I can borrow their tools. :( ← U like doing that dont you :- when ever you appear at work i can garentee that you want to borrow/use something :S BTW if you took the wheel to the shop fully built and with good spokes and nipples they should only have to true/unbuild the wheel. If it hasnt been done yet id recomend trying elsewhere (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobnobs Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Luckily he managed to do it without replacing nipples :S and it only cost 17 quid. Nice and fast though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 What exactly did he do? £17 for a wheel true (10 mins max) sounds rather excessive :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobnobs Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 I think he rebuilt it, not really sure why as i swear i built it right, (but hey, hes got 20 years experience under his belt). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted May 11, 2005 Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Well, the nipples were fine when i built it, spinny smoothly, but it was taken to the lbs, where they fiddled, and couldnt do anything, so maybe they screwed the nipples. :D Lube it is next time :S ← I might have taken that the wrong way but if they fiddled and messed it up then you shouldn't have had to pay for them to fix it. It's the same rule as shops apply when your shopping. "you break it, you buy it! :( " £17 is a mighty skank. my local shop did my rear wheel with black dt swiss double butted spokes and built it up for me at a charge of £14. This wheel has lasted nearly six months and has only been re-trued once (a week after it was built so the spokes weren't loose). so.... spokes and wheel build for £14. :) Trueing/tweaking for £17 :- kind of a difference hey? (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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