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Leeson Bb


Xavier

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Gday, I'm a little confused about the Leeson BB and dropouts. I'm ordering a 24" frame from them and have six weeks waiting untill I finalise what I want, when I first spoke to Clive he said that I have to use a bb that he supplies because he fits it in a different way than normal. If anyone knows how it works exactly that would be great, its just I'm in Australia and if I have to replace it down the track I'm worried it'll be a hassle. Also are the dropouts only compatible with certain hubs/skewers/bolts?

I would go straight to the source but the email at Leeson isnt the fastest and it costs me an arm and a leg every time I want to ring him.

Any help would be great,

cheers

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The topic starter has been validated. Moving topic from New Members Chat to Trials Chat.

As for the BB - Clive machines off the Drive Side threads, and then presses the BB into the shell, using a Circlip for extra security. He does away with the non drive side cup.

The dropouts fit pretty much any setup... apart from King Fun Bolts. King axles are also a small amount undersized (3/8" instead of 10mm), so if you have (for example) a Hope Hub now, and want to get a King in future, its best to go for the 10mm dropouts (which will also fit a King if/when necessary)

Hope thats of some use (Y)

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bolt in dropouts - you need a tapped rear axle on your hub. so the inside of the axle has to be tapped with an M5 tap. you can get a QR dropout (the same dropout only with a different 360 insert) which you don't have to tap your axle for, but it's less stiff.

if you have a CK hub then you have to ask him to build the frame specifically for this.

bb - the shell is 83mm or something daft. so it doesnt use screw in threads. it's held in by interference fit/lock tite/2 circlips. i've yet to meet anyone except clive who understands this system. we tried to get my mates out to replace the bb but couldn't - so he had to get clive to do it for him.

basically if you want/need to replace the BB you have to send it back to him. or take the circlips out using circlip pliers (cos everyone has those?!) then heat up the bb shell to melt the lock tite / expand the bb shell. then smash the thing out. then lock tite your new bb back in.

last time i checked he didn't sell his frames to anywhere else except the UK but i guess this might have changed.

hope this helps

boon

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bolt in dropouts - you need a tapped rear axle on your hub. so the inside of the axle has to be tapped with an M5 tap. you can get a QR dropout (the same dropout only with a different 360 insert) which you don't have to tap your axle for, but it's less stiff.

It'll be an M6 tap... and you can use a QR (I know for a fact that the Hope ones fit). Stiffness isnt really affected much, especially cos of the super dooper amazing 360 dropouts (Y)

if you have a CK hub then you have to ask him to build the frame specifically for this.

Yeah, Clive being a stickinthemud...the difference is 0.475mm.

take the circlips out using circlip pliers (cos everyone has those?!) then heat up the bb shell to melt the lock tite / expand the bb shell. then smash the thing out. then lock tite your new bb back in.

:D"

Sounds like a pretty standard job then (Y)

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It'll be an M6 tap... and you can use a QR (I know for a fact that the Hope ones fit). Stiffness isnt really affected much, especially cos of the super dooper amazing 360 dropouts  (Y)

ar ok M6 (Y)

lol ye but you need a threaded insert for the 360 dropout part instead of a normal one / a QR nut. least that's wat clive told me. he also said it was slightly "less stiff" with a QR but i guess that's in his understanding not someone who has used standard dropouts for ever (what's wrong with standard ones anyway?!)

i dunno about the BB (i couldn't do it and i'm a PRO mechanic :D) but machining off threads to start with to make your new bb fit doesn't sound too straight forward haha

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lol ye but you need a threaded insert for the 360 dropout part instead of a normal one / a QR nut. least that's wat clive told me.

Sounds feesible (Y) Im sure there would be a way of bodging though :P hehe

he also said it was slightly "less stiff" with a QR but i guess that's in his understanding not someone who has used standard dropouts for ever (what's wrong with standard ones anyway?!)

Ahh, you see, standard dropouts make it too easy to get the rear wheel out (Y)

i dunno about the BB (i couldn't do it and i'm a PRO mechanic :D) but machining off threads to start with to make your new bb fit doesn't sound too straight forward haha

Haha, forgot about that bit... But im sure a machine shop would be able to do it for much less than the cost of sending a frame here and back :D

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Thanks for replys fellas, explains alot. Understand the drop outs now! Do you reakon he would consider doing me a regular bb, it sounds like a pain to try and change it on your own, postage would be a lot there and back (Y) was gonna cost a heaps to get it over here then I discovered my bros coming out and can bring it on the plane (Y)

Edited by Xavier
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Your best bet is to phone him (Eek!), and see what he can do. He'll probably tell you he can't change the BB shell though, without wrecking the whole design of the frame. Although maybe if he used a 100mm shell instead it would work?

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yes maybe I should just ring him! I just didnt want to unless I knew there wasnt a simple ansewer, as it costs a bit for me to call him.

I do prefer the Leeson to curtis so I would of liked to try and work something out, I'm on a buget too and an extra 150 quid for the curtis is alot.

cheers

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