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Locking Out Mechs


grantham

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ye rthe bolt needs to be fully tightened to lock it out anyway (Y)

So adam you saying if i take the spring out it will still shift?

yeah it will still shift :P that spring is only need on double/triple front chainring setups, to keep the chain tensioned over a varity of chainring sizes!

mike

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Locking the Rear mech?! Ooo, please someone shed some light on the meaning of this! it might be the answer to some of my problems!

is it basically where you remove the circlip, backplate and spring from the part or the rear mech that bolts to the mech hanger , then just bolt it straight to the mech hanger?

does it work ok like this??

Ry

;)

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is it basically where you remove the circlip, backplate and spring from the part or the rear mech that bolts to the mech hanger , then just bolt it straight to the mech hanger?

yes, but u will need something to space out the gap left. washers will be of the M10 variety, though most popular with trials riders is an old magura Evo (2 bolt) mount washer; the on that sits behind the the removable side of the brake.

does it work ok like this??

errrrrrrrr........ have u completely ignored the rest of the thread? ;) read people, READ! thats the whole point of others posting answers!

anyways, my little addition to this is, if ur running singlespeed, rather than having to fit a piece of cable to keep the mech positioned over the sprocket when locked out, i simply:

1) push the mech across until its positioned over/in line with the sprocket

2) swing the upper cage of the mech forward until its touching the chainstay

3) lock it up

jobs a good un. chainstay stops the mech from returning to its resting position (not over the sprocket).

Edited by guineasmithpig
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