Jump to content

Its Not Knurling And Its Not Grinding But...


munkee

Recommended Posts

Onza did it a while ago but pads wore out to quick :)

i'm sure some guys at onza or supercycles was testing it out on some new onza rims which were knurled but ditched it when they'd started going through pads at a stupid speed. and i think they tried a range of pads.

im sure onza brought out a rim like this?

i saw it on there site while ago it was more curved cuts thou think it may be better for getting water of the rim,

looks cool thou, dont know how long pads would last :huh:"

So... why did it take three people to point out that OnZa tested a similar rim surface? Matt told us this and then just over 3 hours later someone else decided to as well, any reason?

Edited by MonsterJ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

and how do you know that for certain?? do you ride MY bike?i have used tar for ages now, and yes, my brake was good but not perfect.  i ground the rim TODAY! and the difference was immediatly noticable. The Custom rb seal setup is basically my own way of stopping the thing from leaking, which will improve power as pressure is not lost through leaks. the booster stops my frame from flexing and enables my pads to push on the rim with a much harder force resulting in more power. 

By posting my brake setup it enables people to see what i am using incase they need any ideas on creating there own brake setup, Not to boast or anything else.

If you can get a standard Hs33 on an orange zero to work as nice and as powerful as mine while still retaining a good 'Solid' feel to the lever by just using a little bit of tar, then please show me and ill eat my words. :huh:

sorry i get worked up when people list their brake set up, i.e booster, pads, grind/no grind...etc....then put oh, and i use tar, it flips the whole thing on its head, lmao. im not saying your like this but it reminded me of people saying stuff like this, thats why i got a bit carried away.

i didnt mean to cause any offence, hopefully none is taken :)

cheers

Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry i get worked up when people list their brake set up, i.e booster, pads, grind/no grind...etc....then put oh, and i use tar, it flips the whole thing on its head, lmao. im not saying your like this but it reminded me of people saying stuff like this, thats why i got a bit carried away.

i didnt mean to cause any offence, hopefully none is taken :)

cheers

Will

Lol, thats ok mate! i'm the kinda person that takes their brakes very seriously, so a 1% improvement in break power to me makes all the difference!! lol i'm just trying to find the right combination of setup/braking surfaces.

I do no what you mean though about the 'Tar' Situation though... I still use it as a party trick when kids come up to me and say 'Ryan... Can you make my brakes work please!' ,So slap on a bita tar and there forever amazed/greatfull! hehe!

Peace man!

Ry

:huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So... why did it take three people to point out that OnZa tested a similar rim surface? Matt told us this and then just over 3 hours later someone else decided to as well, any reason?

Were on trials forum so people dont :huh:

Just so we can stop all the batty posts here you all go:

CNC_rim_surface_1.jpg

The onza version. Commence the "who thought of the design first" posts

Edited by Spacemunkee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from OT:

1) they must accurately clock and center the rim per side - to ensure it comes out even,

2) they need a HSS (High Speed Steel) cutter ground to a point 25-40 degree included angle on fly or single-bar cutter.

3) for a dx32, they should aim for 0.35mm depth of cut, + or - 0.05mm, under no circumstances should they exceed 2/5 of the thinnest part of the wall thickness.

4) cutter dia = 350mm

5) cutter PCD = 420mm

6) cutter V = 50-60 m/min @ 70mm/min (70mm/min is the feed rate, using 70mm/min @ 54.9m/min, the speed, will give you thesame groove spacing I have).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Firstly sorry to be a grump but don't turn everysingle topic into a huge debate about brake pads!!!! there are about 10 per week anyway!

ok so everyone wants this mystery grind... hmm ive had trouble trying to think how us.. the general trials public with limeted access to machine shops and specialised tools can replicate this finish sooooooo..

idea 1

wheel ( minus tyre 'n' tube ) in frame clamped onto work surface so that cranks can turn and wheel can spin when pedel'd k...

obtain/aquire a knurling tool from hss or college for a laith, one that opens wide enough for your rim

mount this tool some how at 45° to the rim so that the rim passes between the two wheels ( 45° because then you have a multi directional brake surface, go eat cheese onza! )

get a mate to turn the cranks very fast firstly to ensure that the whole assebly doesnt shake and to make sure that the tool is in the right place

now with your mate going hell for leather on the cranks, GENTLY, start to turn the tightening knob on the knurling tool, slowly the desired effect will appear on your rim, dont forget very slow movements and this should work, as long as you persistyou should be fine

please feel free to critisise and/or refine this process at will, its just an idea and i will not be offended and not feel the need to unrelentlessly brick your mothers :huh:

im going to try this and i hope that this helps someone one day cos thats what lifes about, contributing!!!

Mark.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Firstly sorry to be a grump but don't turn everysingle topic into a huge debate about brake pads!!!! there are about 10 per week anyway!

ok so everyone wants this mystery grind... hmm ive had trouble trying to think how us.. the general trials public with limeted access to machine shops and specialised tools can replicate this finish sooooooo..

idea 1

wheel ( minus tyre 'n' tube ) in frame clamped onto work surface so that cranks can turn and wheel can spin when pedel'd k...

obtain/aquire a knurling tool from hss or college for a laith, one that opens wide enough for your rim

mount this tool some how at 45° to the rim so that the rim passes between the two wheels ( 45° because then you have a multi directional brake surface, go eat cheese onza! )

get a mate to turn the cranks very fast firstly to ensure that the whole assebly doesnt shake and to make sure that the tool is in the right place

now with your mate going hell for leather on the cranks, GENTLY, start to turn the tightening knob on the knurling tool, slowly the desired effect will appear on your rim, dont forget very slow movements and this should work, as long as you persistyou should be fine

please feel free to critisise and/or refine this process at will, its just an idea and i will not be offended and not feel the need to unrelentlessly brick your mothers :huh:

im going to try this and i hope that this helps someone one day cos thats what lifes about, contributing!!!

Mark.

Take finger out of bum.

Take wheel off bike.

Take tyre off wheel.

Take grinder out.

Take chunks out of rim.

Take tyre back on.

Take wheel back on.

Take bike out.

Take gun out of pocket.

Take gun to head.

Take finger to trigger.

Take a break.

Take a kit kat.

Edited by Anal_Teflon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

*

Mark.

surely though this will create horizontal lines (i don't actually no what this tool looks like, but i'm guessing its got a head with lots of either triangular points or horizontal lines on it?). if so then spinning the wheel with this tool on it will give horizontal lines which will probally make no difference to the braking surface. you need to have Vertical lines!!

??

Ry

:huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i dont think that idea will work as the gnurling tool has to mesh with the metal after it has started to knurl the surface

for the wheels of the knurling tool to turn and the wheel to turn you need them facing in the same direction surely. if you have the knurling tool on a 45 degree angle then the tool will want to wonder away from the rim?

anyways, either im really confuzed or your really wrong (Y)

cheers

Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...