Wayne-king Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 at the moment i'm running a 2.5 minion in my levelboss, but it catches slightly on the chainsaty when i put loads of power through the cranks (e.g. big gaps) does anyone else have this problem? i'm running a 40mm Viz rim. Would a 2.5 Highroller fit better? or will i have to go for a 2.35? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 i imagine that your rim is flexing? is it catching on the driveside? i would think having your wheel retensioned would help cos maybe the spokes are a bit loose-that happened to my px bmf rim personally i think 2.5 is a bit big-your choice(saying that i run a 2.4 intense (Y) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne-king Posted February 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 it is on the drive-side, but the wheel is perfectly true and can't really be tentioned any more. I could probably live with a 2.35, but i prefer having the wideness of a 2.5 (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank_rider Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 how close to rubbing is it when its not under any load? and are the gaps even either side of the tyre when not under load? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trials Punk Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 Try and tighten the non driveside spokes but 1/4 of a turn and loosen the driveside by 1/4 of a turn. Try and get it closer to the non driveside stay. When you put power through the chaindrive it pulls the wheel over. I think running a booster may help with this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne-king Posted February 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 how close to rubbing is it when its not under any load? and are the gaps even either side of the tyre when not under load? ← the tyre clearence on levelboss's isn't that great, the gap either side is even, but there is only about 2mm either side, and the spoke tension is even on both sides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank_rider Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 spoke tension shouldnt be even unless you are running an ss hub, the driveside should be tighter than the non drive side, but if the wheel is sitting in the middle of the frame then it would seem you have the spoke tensions right. Who built the wheel? Also you could try shaving a small amount of the outer most knobles of the tyre, I had this problem with a panaracer fire fr 2.4 in my Base, and shaving the tyre slightly solved it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne-king Posted February 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 Who built the wheel? ← it was built by my lbs, he is pretty good with wheels though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisa Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 Im running a Minion 2.5 st in my levelboss on a koxx 47mm rim and no scrubbing from it.. Maybe check your axle? Also is your brake rubbing when this happens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fairy elephants Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 Im running a Minion 2.5 st in my levelboss on a koxx 47mm rim and no scrubbing from it.. Maybe check your axle? Also is your brake rubbing when this happens? ← Haha, i would laugh sssooooo much if it was the axle. He has just replaced his standard king axle with the HD version, so that shouldnt be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actiondan Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 What ever anyone says, spoke tensions should be even on both sides! You never ever ever do one side tighter than the other cus then the wheel will go out of dish! And its daft that its rubbing on the drive side when you put pressure on the cranks cus that should pull it away from the drive side! Its probably that the wheel IS out of dish and just needs taking over one way! Get it in a wheel jig and see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Clark Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 What ever anyone says, spoke tensions should be even on both sides! You never ever ever do one side tighter than the other cus then the wheel will go out of dish! And its daft that its rubbing on the drive side when you put pressure on the cranks cus that should pull it away from the drive side! Its probably that the wheel IS out of dish and just needs taking over one way! Get it in a wheel jig and see! ← Please shut up, the rim has to be central over the axle, not the hub body, therefore to make up for the freehub, the driveside is more tensioned. I've got a 2.5 Michelin on a Ronnie with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 Please shut up, the rim has to be central over the axle, not the hub body, therefore to make up for the freehub, the driveside is more tensioned. I've got a 2.5 Michelin on a Ronnie with no problems. ← You're both wrong in a way. When you accelerate it DOES pull it to the drive side because it tightens those spokes more. The side on the freehub ISN'T tighter you just use shorter spokes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onzamad Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 (edited) id have thought it must be something to do with your rim flexing. I dont think it could be the tyre as the try-all tyres are 2.5, and they are designed for the bike. so like i said, it wont be your tyre. I also wouldn't have thought it to be your cones/axle in your wheel, as there wouldn't be that much play in them, if there is then your wheel bearings need tightenning, but i dont think that this is the answer. hope that helped, Edited February 1, 2005 by onzamad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trials Punk Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 You're both wrong in a way. When you accelerate it DOES pull it to the drive side because it tightens those spokes more. The side on the freehub ISN'T tighter you just use shorter spokes. ← The freehub side usually has more tension in it. If you build the wheel properlly. I've had wheels built by chainreaction, wiggle, one from the tart and the ones done by myself all have had shorter spokes on the drivside and the driveside spokes were always tensioned more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actiondan Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 (edited) Deleted through utter embarasment! :"> Edited February 3, 2005 by actiondan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Dan, i suggest you be quiet now :blink:" Halfords mechanics (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actiondan Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 (edited) Fair doo's mate! obviously to get equal tensions is pretty much impossible even if you do try! but they should never be that different man! Well, ive been told. I just build wheels like the guys who showed me! One of them has Been the GT team mech for 5 years! So i think thats not bad advice! But as i should be, im willing to learn! What do you do mate? And it is true, most halfords mechs forget to turn the forks the right way round when they build a new bike! (Y) :blink: Edited February 3, 2005 by actiondan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cant_ride Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Just for my brain ...... and im not saying its wrong at all because i dont know.... but why would the wheel be pulled over towards the driveside when accelerating ? I was just wondering because you use the hub to accelerate which is firmly fixed in place between the stays, I cant see how the rest of wheel is involved in the whole process.... the only experience i've ever had of the tyre rubbing when pedalling is when the frame flexes as you downstroke with the pedal. cheers oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actiondan Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 (edited) Thats what i thought! But maybe we are both wrong geez! AH HA! Right then tarty, i suppose the drive side has to have more tension in it, because the angle of the spokes is less from rim to hub, so they have to do more work than the nondrive side! :"> :"> :"> :"> :"> :"> Ignore me, im being a Tw@t. Edited February 3, 2005 by actiondan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Well, if you have even TENSION each side, then you'll have equal sideways force from each side, and the rim will be in the centre of the hub flanges. Obviously though, you just build a wheel til its right - which IMO is the best way to do it! I'll do some maths in a sec :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 I was just wondering because you use the hub to accelerate which is firmly fixed in place between the stays, I cant see how the rest of wheel is involved in the whole process... ← Axle flex :blink: You could also argue that the hub shell twists, transferring force to the drive side spokes before the non drive side spokes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 For example: 200N force in each spoke (say), 16 spokes per side. Then we need to find the horizontal component of this force. Total force = 200 x 16 = 3.2kN. Angle of spokes for a (correctly dished) rear wheel on the drive side will be approximately [sin-1 19/260] = 4.2 degrees, and non drive side [sin-1 30/262] = 6.6 degrees. So, sideways force from both of these is: Drive = 3200 Sin 19/260 = 4.08N In order to have a balanced (at this point - ie. dished) wheel, you therefore need the same sideways force from the non drive side spokes. So 4.08 = 16 X Sin 30/262 X = ~125N tension in non drive side... Compared with 200N tension in drive side. Only theoretical, but shows (hopefully) what i mean. Needs a tensiometer for 'real' values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trials Punk Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 (edited) Maybe I am wrong. Its just ever wheel I've had for the back the driveside is always more tensioned. Achh well. Looks like tarty has it sorted with his mathematical skills. I have no idea what all that means but hey it looks good. Edited February 3, 2005 by Trials Punk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tartridge Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Lol :"> Yeah, drive side are tighter by 'feeling', and also by their tone when you twang them :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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