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The Little Wheels Thread


Sameer

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right i have two videos.

First off a trailer for the new Etnies Grounded dvd thats coming out: etnies video blog. Be warned there is hardly any riding, nor is it very long. Basically it's a pretty crap trailer, but meh some might want to see it.

And second, heres the animal roadtrip video, very short at just under 8mins. But i haven't watched it yet so i don't know what it's like:

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The last trick :o

Oh my :huh:

How high were those whip he was pulling out of the park and gapping over the fence.

And that last clip with the stairs is taking 'bmxers wrists' to a whole new level.

Crazy stuff..

Edit: just came across this, and really enjoyed it. I've been waiting for a small team video from them since i checked out who was riding for them. So here it is:

Federal London trip

Edited by huck_it
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Tobias Wicke was already sic without having to go big.. awesome

for the Federal vid,

freecoasters look ever so more tempting.

Bruice Chrisman's style changes everytime i see him ride. (someone correct that awefull name spelling)

I know, don't they just. But at the moment for some reason they are getting slaughtered by the masses for being a 'trend'. But surely the people that are calling these a trend are only going against the grain, in order to be part of a smaller trend and in a minority for being different. I think some people just need to forget about all this trend shit and get on with doing what they want to, not dictate to others what to do. Anyway rant over.

And it's Bruce Crisman :P. Hasn't he also designed a new freecoaster with KHE called the reverse or something, but i think it's still in prototype.

Heres a pic of it:

IPB Image

Edited by huck_it
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IPB Image

mmm

geisha with sensible 1 piece axle design

mmm

perfect excuse to get new black rear rim

mmm

dammit, i need a wii and nappies - I can't go buying a new wheel now

federal vid was better than i expected although it could have used some more bigness and grinding mixed up with all the backwards business. I like bigness and grinding a lot,

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I think it's a 9 in that pic but I'm pretty sure there were 11tooth geishas floating around so I'm guessing you could swap the cogs out and go 30-11. It'd be cheaper to just get a 25toother for the front though.

You'd still be stressing the chain if you backpedalled to slow down your fakies and you'd still lock the wheel with pedal pressure when needed so I don't see it reducing chain snappage much. That said a half link chain pretty much eliminates your microdrive worries anyway (doesn't it ?)

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Not that much.

Back-pedalling whilst going fakie with a coaster doesn't really do anything anyway, seeing as the hub's disengaged. The only thing you might get I suppose is a bit of resistance between the clutch plates, but that's it really. They're releasing the 1-piece axle as a spare, and you can retro-fit it to the Geisha so we're all good. Geishas only come in 9t for the street version, but you can get them in 11t and 10t, but only made of alu not steel, or something like that, 'cos they're for the flatland version. You can get the Reverse in 9, 10 and 11t though.

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I think it's a 9 in that pic but I'm pretty sure there were 11tooth geishas floating around so I'm guessing you could swap the cogs out and go 30-11. It'd be cheaper to just get a 25toother for the front though.

You'd still be stressing the chain if you backpedalled to slow down your fakies and you'd still lock the wheel with pedal pressure when needed so I don't see it reducing chain snappage much. That said a half link chain pretty much eliminates your microdrive worries anyway (doesn't it ?)

I mean you can't tail tap with a freecoaster (brakeless) and also use pedal kicks and pedal locks for fakie stuff so thats where the chain stress would be eliminated.

But as you said backpedalling will stress it out.

I'm curious to why you said half links being stronger on a micro drive rather than a normal chain. Is it because the chain can twist further round, therefore raping itself round the smaller 9t better?

But due to the fact that micro gears stress the chain out because the ratio of pull is the same just on less teeth so therefore the stress is divided onto less links, thus still causing chain snappage.

I hope you understand what i tried to explain there. A show/ tell would be easier :lol:

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Chains only really start to die on 25:9. I ran 33:12 and 28:10 for a good length of time, and I didn't snap a single chain. My brother's been running 30:11 for a while now and he hasn't snapped a chain yet either - it's just not as harsh as you'd think.

You can still tyre tap with a coaster, but you've got to adapt your technique slightly to get it done. It's not as easy as with a cassette where you just go into it a bit alley-oop, hoof the pedal down and balance there.

I think Poopipe may have just thought the half-link chains were stronger, but they don't really seem to be any better than a 'regular' chain.

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I think Poopipe may have just thought the half-link chains were stronger, but they don't really seem to be any better than a 'regular' chain.

nonono

i just assumed that because they wrap round the weeny sprockets better they suffer less stretchy stress

you can lock a freecoaster while rolling back fine - you just engage the clutch by pedalling forwards a little and everything becomes normal again. Once that's done you're basically on a normal wheel. How far you have to pedal depends on how you've set the hub up - large gaps give more leeway for foot movement while freecoasting but increase the engagement distance.

You can disengage pretty much anytime by pedalling backwards a bit although historically that was always a bit hit&miss.

all this is based on my old home modified suntour coasterbrake hub which dates back to the very early 90s - it had a tendency to randomly engage while coasting and explode when going really quick down hills which was always exciting - I'm assuming the same basic principles run true these days.

perhaps I'll get myself a LHD as a reward for resisting the Wii

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With modern (by modern, I mean decent :P) coasters, if you pedal forwards and re-engage the hub whilst going fakie, it'll just knock the pedals round again and it'll disengage, simply because they require very little movement to actually dis-engage. You can't back pedal like you would do on a normal hub at all.

The half-link chains don't really make much difference in terms of wrapping, most chains do a decent job of it. KMC 510HX chains work well, as do "25:9 designed" chains like the KHE Collapse. The Collapse may be shaped so it wraps nicely, but unfortunately they forgot to make decent rollers and make it well. C'est la vie. Typical KHE flawed product :P

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With modern (by modern, I mean decent :P) coasters, if you pedal forwards and re-engage the hub whilst going fakie, it'll just knock the pedals round again and it'll disengage, simply because they require very little movement to actually dis-engage. You can't back pedal like you would do on a normal hub at all.

but surely.....

if you keep forward pressure on the pedals you'll be able to slow down going fakie as you would on a normal hub - as long as you're keeping the pedals rotating slower than the wheel wants them to it'll never disengage (unless it breaks). As soon as you pedal back faster than the wheel would force you to the clutch will disengage and you're back in freecoastyland

right ?

sod it , Ill just buy one anyway. will they come in black ?

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but surely.....

if you keep forward pressure on the pedals you'll be able to slow down going fakie as you would on a normal hub - as long as you're keeping the pedals rotating slower than the wheel wants them to it'll never disengage (unless it breaks). As soon as you pedal back faster than the wheel would force you to the clutch will disengage and you're back in freecoastyland

right ?

sod it , Ill just buy one anyway. will they come in black ?

What I mean is that you'd be lucky to rotate the pedals at exactly the right rate, simply because it does take so very little to disengage it. With James' proto WTP hub, it doesn't even really need any backpedal at all to disengage, which is weird as hell at first. Either way, if you want to slow fakies like that you should probably just stick to a hub, 'cos it's sorta against the reason for having a freecoaster...

The new KHE Reverse might come in black, assuming the barrage of "Why are your freecoasters only in shit colours" e-mails have done their job. Although again, knowing KHE, they'll probably find some way to balls them up.

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You say they disengage very easily. When going for a tail tap on a quarter you do tend to roll back slightly to get that balance. Would it disengage then? Also on 540 taps, if the hub were to disengage it could be rather dangerous. The ramp riders who do use freecoasters tend to use brakes. I haven't seen any freecoaster ramp riders going brakeless. This is why i am unsure on the fact of using a freecoaster as i ride ramp a fair bit now.

Maybe it's just down to changing the way you actually perform these moves?

Maybe if i were to buy a freecoaster and set it to engage on the highest setting (?) then when pulling doing a fakie down a big ramp i would just use a whole pedal stroke to disengage the hub. I guess that would be a good setup? As it would allow quick pedal kicks to a certain extent.

OBM have you ever used one? I wonder do they slip as they're not running on normal cassette pawls, are they?

I think the question being is; on the highest setting how much pedal movement would i need for it to engage, half/ quarter pedal stroke or less?

Edited by eskimo
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