roozor Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 Can someone please set me straight, i dont even care if you all make fun or banish me to the new members group again! I have been searching all on this forums/google/magura website for ages now and i still have not a clue how to bleed my brakes, and what substances i can bleed them with apart from the magura oil. Basicly i just need it in laymen's terms with pictures (N) So far i think i need to undo the bolt on the lever next to the bolt where the hose goes in, then use a syringe to suck everything out? Then refill it with whatever i decide to put in? The posts i found have confused me even more, as some guys were saying to submerge the lever in a sink then undo the bolt and pump it, then hey presto it's done bled with water?! wish it was that easy (N) Also if i take the lever off im gonna have to remove my foam monty grips, which i know is going to damage them as they are locked on! Please someone help me as my front hs33 has so much air in it it's like a bouncy castle! Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 You've got to use the bolt on the slave cylinder too. That's the one down at the bottom, which has got the excess bolt on it (not two hoses coming out of it, if you get me). I can't think of how to explain it clearly 'cos I've not bled a Magura in 2 years (mine have just stayed rock solid (N)\), so if you try and swing by Magura.de there should be a pictorial guide on there somewhere. Also, try checking out the FAQ section - there's a Magura section in there with info and might have the link for the online manual. Mark. PS. From what I can remember - syringe with new fluid goes into bottom hole, then a pipe going out into a little pot at the lever side of things. Pump the fluid through, tapping the hose along it's length as you do so to un-seat the air bubbles. Keep repeating this until you see new, non-skanky fluid coming out, with no air bubbles in. Then, simply do the bolts up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Papasnap Maher Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 (edited) 1) Fill Syringe with water, and hold up (or down) so all air buubles go to the top (N) (P.S UNDO YOU TPA ADJUSTER AS FAR AS IT WILL GO) 2)undo the bolt in your piston....and also undo the bolt in the lever. 3) Attach syringe at piston end(personal prefernce) and slowly push on syringe so it pushes out goey gunk from the lever that is already in there. 4)Keep fluid constant and try and push out as much of the goey crap you already have in there.(maybe, do this a few times...) 5)Then repat same procedure, and when the water coming out of the lver is clear and nice replace bolt into lever end, while still squezing water through... 6)when youi have tightened the bolt in the lever, slowly undo the syringe from the piston, and replace it with the bolt, but keep the water tooped up whilst putting the bolt in... 7) tighten till done up enough Happy braking p.S, people do it diffrently, thats how i would do it. P.ss, imsure there is a topic on bleeding brakes in the f.a.q (N) P.P.S. Slow-poke (N) Edited January 24, 2005 by Onzaboymark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 (P.S UNDO YOU TPA ADJUSTER AS FAR AS IT WILL GO) ← This is important! I forgot about it, and it went tits up from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si-man Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 There you go 5th post down tells you how to bleed a brake (N) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roozor Posted January 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 My rear tpa is broken, but my front one works fine! So bleeding the front is going to be a problem? I really need pictures as im still confused (N) Also is it okay to bleed with water? as the effect it gives people say it feels really good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 My rear tpa is broken, but my front one works fine! So bleeding the front is going to be a problem? I really need pictures as im still confused (N) Also is it okay to bleed with water? as the effect it gives people say it feels really good! ← Remember you might want to use some anti freeze as well being winter and all... (N) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roozor Posted January 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 Also, we have one problem, i am trying to bleed it with no bleeding kit, only with a syringe! can it be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si-man Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 how to fix tpa's Just doesn't show up any pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Papasnap Maher Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 My rear tpa is broken, but my front one works fine! So bleeding the front is going to be a problem? I really need pictures as im still confused (N) Also is it okay to bleed with water? as the effect it gives people say it feels really good! ← Erm...braoken tpa, do the bodge...but i wont get started on that hahah. Just do as i have said, up above, step by step...experiment, thats how everyone else learned or...as adam read would say " read the instruction manual" (N) Yes, bleeding with water is not a problem, it will make the brake feel much lighter on the finger, as its water, as apposed to slow sticky oil (N) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si-man Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 anti freeze will rinse your seals (N) Just use water or if your that bothered about your brake freezing the use the proper mineral oil (N) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawnmowerman Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 Maguras are designed to take mineral fluid, therefor i think you should use mineral fluid............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roozor Posted January 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 Sorry for asking all this guys, but i dont have a manual for my hs33's, this is the thing! I tried reading the magura online .pdf one but i still cant make sense of it, it's just i'm thick (N) So can i bleed maguras with just a syringe? as i really dont have cash for a kit (N) nothing sticks in my mind unless its in pictures, photographic mind (N) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Papasnap Maher Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 (edited) Sorry for asking all this guys, but i dont have a manual for my hs33's, this is the thing! I tried reading the magura online .pdf one but i still cant make sense of it, it's just i'm thick (N) So can i bleed maguras with just a syringe? as i really dont have cash for a kit (N) nothing sticks in my mind unless its in pictures, photographic mind :P ← Ohhh i get you now....now i know why your so confused, LOL ok, what you need is....a syringe, some tubing....and one of these bad boys Bolty thingey You then TRY to attach it to the tubing, and then screw the other end into the piston... Bobs your uncle (Trying to fit the bugger into the tubing is not supervised, and should only be done in the presence of professionals...your temper might get the better of you (N) ) Edited January 24, 2005 by Joe@Carbonique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nb88 Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 You cant just bleed with a syringe, you need the 2 tubes supplied with the bleed kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 I did my BMX brake with a syringe, and two bits of silocone tube and a syringe, and two of those "bad boys" and it works fine. Print out the instructions or bring your bike inside and read the sections 1 part at a time, dont rush it and it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roozor Posted January 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 (edited) woot! fixed the front brake! took the wheel off, held down one of the pads, pressed lever so the whole brake pad come out and you can see the piston thing. i lubed both up and now it's lush! The rear brake im gonna try this method, but i swear this one will definatly need a bleed :mellow: thanks for the help all Alex I feel so trialsy-bike tech geeky, doing work on my hs33's at midnight :ermm: Edited January 25, 2005 by roozor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roozor Posted January 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 OR i thought about trying the "quick bleed " method on that magura cult site. Am i right in saying i take off the allen key bolt which is in one side of the brakes (one which doesnt have hose going into it) Then now i can see the fluid, then i very very gently squeeze lever making the air come out, then just top it up with extra fluid and put the allen bolt back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruiser1 Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 No, the quick bleed is done at the lever. I'll type up what you need to do for a quick bleed, and a full bleed. Read the steps, and see what they refer to on your brake. You should be able to easily figure out what parts of the brake the steps refer to. A quick bleed is for when you feel there is air in the brake. You tell this by pressing the lever and looking at the pads. If there is a delay between lever movement and pad movement, you have air. Do the quick bleed then. 1. You guys run rear levers on the left side of the bar. Pump the lever a couple times, then lay the bike down on its left side. 2. Undo the allen bolt, beside where the hose goes into the lever. 3. You'll see it might not be completely filled with oil. Press the lever a little bit to push any air out. 4. Top it up to the end of the threads, with whatever fluid the brake is bled with. If it's a stock magura, you have to use mineral oil. Do not use water for a quick bleed on oil-bled maguras. 5. Reinstall the screw, with a paper towel handy because oil will come out. Pads should now be moving as soon as you put any sort of pressure on the lever blade. For a normal bleed, you will need more than just the syringe. Go to your local Do-It-Yourself store, and get some clear tubing to fill the syringe. 2 feet will be more than enough, and be cheap as wood chips. You'll need at least one of those barbed fittings that Joe posted a picture of. Your bike shop should have somelaying around. Cut the hose in 2, install one piece to the syringe, and push the barbed fitting into the other end of the hose. Fill the syringe with whatever you're bleeding with, make sure to fill it enough. You don't want to have to refill the syringe half way through the bleed. You will also need an empty jar or bottle to catch the old fluid. An empty water bottle, tied to the handlebars with some wire or string works perfectly. So, materials again are: - fluid (mineral oil, water, etc. Choose one, do not mix them.) - 1 syringe - 2 feet of clear hosing (cut in half) - 1 barbed fitting - 1 empty container - string or wire to tie the container. - 5mm and 3mm allen keys. - 8mm open end wrench for the barb fitting. Onto bleeding. 1. Lean your bike against a wall. Loosen the lever, and rotate it until it's parallel with the ground. 2. On the brake cylinders, one cylinder will have the crossover line, and a 5mm bolt beside it. Remove the bolt. 3. Take the syringe, screw the barbed fitting into the hole you just removed the bolt from. Tighten the fitting a bit to form a good seal. 4. At the lever, remove the 3mm allen head grub screw beside where the hose goes into the lever. Stick the other piece of tubing in the hole, as far as it will go to make sure it doesn't come off during bleeding. This is where having a second barbed fitting would be handy. If not, just tape it onto the lever for more security. 5. Take the empty container, jar, or water bottle and tie it to your bars. Put the bleed hose coming out from the lever into it, so that the old fluid will go into the bottle. 6. Back to the syringe. Start pressing it to put the new fluid into the brake. Make sure to avoid any air in the syringe from being bled into the brake. You'll see dark fluid coming out from the lever. Keep bleeding until the fluid starts to come out clearer. 7. Remove the bleeding hose from the lever, and reinstall the 3mm head grub screw. 8. Remove the syringe and barbed fitting from the brake cylinder. Top it off with a drop of fluid from the syringe before reinstalling the 5mm allen screw. You're done. Check that the pads move at the exact instant the lever is pressed. If there is a delay, do the quick bleed. I hope this covered it all, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatmike Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 Mate, it will be a lot easier or you to just fill up a bath with some water, disconnect the parts, submerge them all under water, ensure there's no air locks anywhere, then re-connect them under water. By far the simples for you. Failing that, take it to your bike shop. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roozor Posted January 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 Thanks alot all, got it sorted :mellow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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