Pad Reviews

[snoolax]

Sorry but am i allow to ask here what pads are good with a smooth rim? i am runnng rhino lite rims..

also is it every possible to get a smooth rim and pad combi that have a gripping power of not slipping during rear wheel moves as good a a grinded one?

[hdmackay]

Sorry but am i allow to ask here what pads are good with a smooth rim? i am runnng rhino lite rims..

also is it every possible to get a smooth rim and pad combi that have a gripping power of not slipping during rear wheel moves as good a a grinded one?

Yes!

Snowies on smooth for the win.

Best ever

[snoolax]

Yes!

Snowies on smooth for the win.

Best ever

i hope 'yes' is for yes for a very good brake brip

where can i get snowies? i dont see that name in tarty, thanks!

[Little Yoshi]

i hope 'yes' is for yes for a very good brake brip

where can i get snowies? i dont see that name in tarty, thanks!

Here you go.

[snoolax]

Here you go.

thanks will be getting them and hopefully a review up soon!

[hdmackay]

thanks will be getting them and hopefully a review up soon!

Put them on an anodised rim for best performance.

Btw, they suck in the wet but that's just because it's a smooth rim.

[snoolax]

Put them on an anodised rim for best performance.

Btw, they suck in the wet but that's just because it's a smooth rim.

thanks, but pardon me whats an anodised rim? i am running rhyno lite btw =)

[hdmackay]

thanks, but pardon me whats an anodised rim? i am running rhyno lite btw =)

Dunno how to explain it but it looks cool and makes your brake MINT!

[LukasMcNeal]

Anodising is basically a coating which can be coloured. Google it if you want to know in depth!

[Muel]

Anodising is a electrolosis process that sticks some pigment die into pretty much any metal (I think), works really well on aluminium though because it's so porous.

EDIT: Too slow.

Edited October 4, 2009 by Muel

[Le @ Tnn Engineering]

Why do i seem to be having no luck with my TNN LGM pads? Iv spents ages setting the pads up square, used new cutting disks on the rim left wheel in frame to iliminate contamination and there still nothing special.

Im using a monty rim however, Something to do with the material there made of maybe?

How long have you been running the pads for?

[Ben John-Hynes]

a coating which can be coloured.

Anodising is a electrolosis process that sticks some pigment die into pretty much any metal (I think),

EDIT: Too slow.

Hardly too slow

[Echo-Scott]

im not even bothering with you, you conned me out of 20 quid

How Exactly do you figure that one out?

You didnt send me all of the money and i agreed to send the parts despite that fact, being nice. And you said you would sent the rest out asap.

You then claimed to have sent the rest of the money on 2 or 3 occasions and i have never recieved a thing. Either your really shit at writting an address on an envelope or your bull shitting.

[hdmackay]

How Exactly do you figure that one out?

You didnt send me all of the money and i agreed to send the parts despite that fact, being nice. And you said you would sent the rest out asap.

You then claimed to have sent the rest of the money on 2 or 3 occasions and i have never recieved a thing. Either your really shit at writting an address on an envelope or your bull shitting.

Sounds about right to me.

[LiamWood!]

'cause DX32s are the best grinding rims out there. TT ones aren't so good, you'll need to be more vicious with the grinder on the TT rim

Both rims was smooth Benny boy.

[Ben John-Hynes]

Well that shut me up!

[snoolax]

oh noo

i used tar on my rims, but after i had got them off my pads still stick to the rims for a while after i release it. This is kinda screwing up my trackstand as the delay in the pads leaving the rims makes a forward pedal pressure weird. also when it leaves it creates a dragging sound like farting.

what can i do?

[hdmackay]

oh noo

i used tar on my rims, but after i had got them off my pads still stick to the rims for a while after i release it. This is kinda screwing up my trackstand as the delay in the pads leaving the rims makes a forward pedal pressure weird. also when it leaves it creates a dragging sound like farting.

what can i do?

Ahh, sounds like you put wayy to much on. We've all over-tarred our rims at some point.

Firstly, to fix it, sand the top layer of tar off your pads and clean your rim with white spirit (Unless your running an anodised rim. I have a feeling the white spirit will make it come off but not sure), if you have anodised, try and clean it with hot soapy water then make sure you get ALL of it off after by rinsing it with water. However, if you don't care about your sidewalls or it's already been ground etc. White spirit works amazing. Just put some on a paper towel or something and scrub the rim. The tar basically flies off.

Secondly, putting the tar on. You don't want to end up doing the same thing again. Theres two main methods for putting it on. Most people use this one. Spin the wheel and lightly touch the tar on the side of the rim for a second or two, then do the same to the other side. I don't like that way though because I can never get the right amount on.

All do is, with the wheel still, just put wee lines of it at certain parts of the rim. So about 3-4 lines on 1 side then the same on the other. After you've put it on cycle around with your brake on for a few seconds to spread it round the rim. It will make an awful racket but you only to do it for a few seconds.

Just experiment with it but making sure you don't put too much on.

Hope this helps.

Edited October 22, 2009 by hdmackay

[snoolax]

Ahh, sounds like you put wayy to much on. We've all over-tarred our rims at some point.

Firstly, to fix it, sand the top layer of tar off your pads and clean your rim with white spirit (Unless your running an anodised rim. I have a feeling the white spirit will make it come off but not sure), if you have anodised, try and clean it with hot soapy water then make sure you get ALL of it off after by rinsing it with water. However, if you don't care about your sidewalls or it's already been ground etc. White spirit works amazing. Just put some on a paper towel or something and scrub the rim. The tar basically flies off.

Secondly, putting the tar on. You don't want to end up doing the same thing again. Theres two main methods for putting it on. Most people use this one. Spin the wheel and lightly touch the tar on the side of the rim for a second or two, then do the same to the other side. I don't like that way though because I can never get the right amount on.

All do is, with the wheel still, just put wee lines of it at certain parts of the rim. So about 3-4 lines on 1 side then the same on the other. After you've put it on cycle around with your brake on for a few seconds to spread it round the rim. It will make an awful racket but you only to do it for a few seconds.

Just experiment with it but making sure you don't put too much on.

Hope this helps.

thanks Hdmackay! actually i only need the first part in getting rid of the tar. I think my 2nd hand bike has some left over tar from the previous owner. Btw i am running a smooth rhyno lite rim, the rim color is black, is it anodised?

Oh i tried your recommendation of sopy water the the dragging is deduced , there are still bits of dragging but i kinda suspect its the lazy piston syndrome from a old hs33.

a off track question to this, any faster and efficient way in setting up a hs33 than the push in calipers all the way and the move them out a little and lock? this method is 100 times harder to do with brake adaptors from v brake mounts

[hdmackay]

thanks Hdmackay! actually i only need the first part in getting rid of the tar. I think my 2nd hand bike has some left over tar from the previous owner. Btw i am running a smooth rhyno lite rim, the rim color is black, is it anodised?

Oh i tried your recommendation of sopy water the the dragging is deduced , there are still bits of dragging but i kinda suspect its the lazy piston syndrome from a old hs33.

a off track question to this, any faster and efficient way in setting up a hs33 than the push in calipers all the way and the move them out a little and lock? this method is 100 times harder to do with brake adaptors from v brake mounts

It's fine.

Erm... I couldn't tell you sorry. Are the sidewalls black aswell?

I'm not sure. Evo 2 adaptors are always a pain in the arse to set up. But once you've set it up once, it SHOULD be fine for an acceptable amount of time. (If you've set it up good that is)

There is always just turning up your TPA. But it's not reccomended to set your brake up this way. i tend to just keep turning the TPA up but I keep an eye on it at the lever. And when a certain amount of threads are showing, i'll set the whole thing up again. If you turn it up too high it will strip ***. If you look side on at the lever you can see how much TPA usage there is.

[snoolax]

It's fine.

Erm... I couldn't tell you sorry. Are the sidewalls black aswell?

I'm not sure. Evo 2 adaptors are always a pain in the arse to set up. But once you've set it up once, it SHOULD be fine for an acceptable amount of time. (If you've set it up good that is)

There is always just turning up your TPA. But it's not reccomended to set your brake up this way. i tend to just keep turning the TPA up but I keep an eye on it at the lever. And when a certain amount of threads are showing, i'll set the whole thing up again. If you turn it up too high it will strip ***. If you look side on at the lever you can see how much TPA usage there is.

regarding the rim the whole rim is black.

abou the TPA, do u mean that after some time it will like kinda unscrew itself?

[hdmackay]

regarding the rim the whole rim is black.

abou the TPA, do u mean that after some time it will like kinda unscrew itself?

Erm... well no. It won't unscrew itself but it will get jammed because of the pressure making the threads strip. As long as you don't turn it too high it'll be fine.

[nek0]

Quick note on LGM's, the loudest pads and the grip is just amazing even with dull/dead grind. I tried not to brake so much in downtown at night as it's really 'that' loud

[Jan Tore]

Pads: TNN LGM

Time used: About 2 months

Rim used: Echo TR

Grind: Yes

Brake used: Echo TR hydraulic rim brake.

What is your opinion of a working brake: It should stop the wheel immediately when I press the lever, hold good, even when I'm about to fail on edges.

How do they compare to previous pads you have used: I can compare them to the Echo white pads. These are far superior to them. They've got better hold, bite and I feel safer using them.

They also look pimp in the Aluminium backing.

Another thing I find very good about the backings, is the O-ring. It makes the backing stick to the magura piston like it's glued.

Review:

First of all, the brake pads come in a nifty little package together with two stickers.

They're perfect fit with the Echo TR brake, and no adjusting needed, apart from the normal brake adjustment.

From the first second, I remember I was very impressed with the bite. Once you press the lever, the wheel just stops.

Forward hold is very good, but backwards could be better. Taking into concideration my brake isn't perfect set up, I can imagine them being even better overall.

I've used them on a very sharp grind and a more or less dead grind, and they perform very well on both. On a sharp grind, water on the rim didn't make a difference at all.

About the wear rate, I've used mine for about two months, and there's still about 60-70% left of them.

I'm not going to try any brake pads after I bought these. They're just very impressive.

[ogre]

Pads: Heatsink yellow Vee pads

Time used: Month and a half

Rim used: Echo Urban 26"

Grind: Yes

Brake used: SD7 lever and SD7 calipers, onza adapters, simtra built in booster.

What is your opinion of a working brake: Very bitey, very strong hold, noise is a bonus.

How do they compare to previous pads you have used: I've ran coustsinks, ZOO!s 203mm BB7 standard pads heatsink reds. Its hard to make a fair comparison of these pads since they were all used with a magura, this is a vee brake which has different qualities, notably EPIC hold (i'm 18 stone and the wheel doesn't move backwards where maguras and even my disc have failed me )

Review:

Figured it'd be fairer to write about the whole setup, and comment on Vees and cable brakes since there still tabboo. I've been riding dual disc for the last 18 months, which has been really fun, the brake always worked; modulated, held and even a bit grabby if it was damp. I prefer the feel of cables to maguras and if i ride another bike with maggys my arms pump up really fast. so if your thinking about going cable do it Heatsink pads have been very strange, i rode my vee with the stock avid pads for an afternoon and they were actually quite impressive, silent with a squeek if the wheel tried to move backwards they'd only slip if i tried doing rolling moves, where they'd full on shit themselves an coat my rim in pad and leave me on my arse there probably fantastic on the front though so i got the heatsink vee pads, the amount of pad material you get is silly! i had to move the vee-dapters all the way out and keep my rim really true for a few weeks, so i made a conscious effort to run the pads down a bit so i can use the centered mounts, so i can't say alot about the wear characteristics. they seem fair though. On a good day these pads are bitey with alot of forward hold (vees usually offer more hold backwards) i've riden in the rain with them and they don't loose to much power but i wasn't confident enough to try any bit gaps, fine for taps and sidehops though. somedays if my grind was off or something? they'd just turn shit, hardly any noise or bite even if i'd just be doing little manuals or pedal kicks outside, very scary TNNs next, then cousts.. hope that helped someone. also worth commenting that with a vee it's really easy to tinker with the brake and dial it in just how you want it which is great if your piss bored on a train