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Bmx Questions


BONGO

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I've just dismantled and re-greased my gaysha and it's still making that bloody knocking noise when I coast forwards (less, but it's still doing it).

why's that?

shall I just ignore it?

will getting a solid axle make me less angry?

How much grease did you put in? I used the finishline (thick and kinda creamy colour; and yes i know what that sounds like :P) stuff and just packed the driver threads and the ball springs with it untill you could barely see them, ran smooth as anything after that :)

The only thing you should leave dry is the outside of the clutch where it actually meets the inner of the hubshell.

And you may aswell just keep EAS untill it breaks? Unlesss you just don't want the hassle i guess, mine just completely f**ked up so i trust solid axle alot more. Solid axles seem to be fairly few and fair between, when i ordered anyways, so if theres one in stock it may be worth snatching up.

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Hmm, it's just, i want so much for my trials bike, a decent front disk, ffw (cranks n that), bars, stem, pads, and i can't afford it, along with the bmx.

BAHH.

Didn't i tell you before that it was better to have one fully working bike than 2 or several hanging bikes. If it does need a disc and a ffw setup go for that but if it's just 'cause you a case of you WANTING it then buy a bmx.

On another note my new freewheel started clicking bad from time to time. Gerrrrrr :angry:

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Didn't i tell you before that it was better to have one fully working bike than 2 or several hanging bikes. If it does need a disc and a ffw setup go for that but if it's just 'cause you a case of you WANTING it then buy a bmx.

On another note my new freewheel started clicking bad from time to time. Gerrrrrr :angry:

dont worry, it's already outlasted the average odyssey 13 tooth

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reverse is supposed to be coming out in LHD, as is the federal. they had all sorts of trouble with supply when they were first coming out so it wouldnt surprise me if they were still having difficulties

Not so, hence:

bikezr5.jpg

Or the "In Action" look:

l_f0a7026c31bf0b99bd42720d9d1a2b47.jpg

The knocking could be the drive-side hub bearing playing silly buggers (As they're prone to...), or it could be a more chain/sprocket/driver related thing. Spin the cranks, then stop them, then pull the upper line of the chain up and down. Is there a little 'pop' or anything like that? Often that'll be the cause of it, and usually it'll just be everything mashing together slightly differently for some reason, which usually solves itself.

The solid axle is about 1000 times better to work on than the Geisha's EAS system, so that'd probably help in terms of servicing the hub and indeed your penchant for peggery, but other than that, I wouldn't bother, really.

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The knocking could be the drive-side hub bearing playing silly buggers (As they're prone to...), or it could be a more chain/sprocket/driver related thing. Spin the cranks, then stop them, then pull the upper line of the chain up and down. Is there a little 'pop' or anything like that? Often that'll be the cause of it, and usually it'll just be everything mashing together slightly differently for some reason, which usually solves itself.

The solid axle is about 1000 times better to work on than the Geisha's EAS system, so that'd probably help in terms of servicing the hub and indeed your penchant for peggery, but other than that, I wouldn't bother, really.

I don't get where the reputation for EAS being shit with pegs comes from - mine are holding up fine to the peg use (touch wood), i have more trouble when pegless cos they stick out so far and get hung up when i do pedal grinds, which cacks the threads, makes your wheel move and more importantly hurts a lot (My tune will change when I snap a stud off in the axle of course)

My problem is that they're a shit to work on

when you say it could be the drive side bearing playing silly buggers do you mean moving about or what?

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I don't get where the reputation for EAS being shit with pegs comes from - mine are holding up fine to the peg use (touch wood), i have more trouble when pegless cos they stick out so far and get hung up when i do pedal grinds, which cacks the threads, makes your wheel move and more importantly hurts a lot (My tune will change when I snap a stud off in the axle of course)

My problem is that they're a shit to work on

when you say it could be the drive side bearing playing silly buggers do you mean moving about or what?

They just shred themselves. With mine, the tops and bottoms of the balls just disappeared into a thick metal/grease paste, meaning the inner race could pretty much do whatever the f**k it wanted, wherever the f**k it wanted to.

I think with the EAS studs it depends just how hard you are on pegs. You could hardly ever grind, yet still be harder on them than someone who grinds all the time, just 'cos you go into them harsher. So you may just be smooth, or just lucky :P Mine were OK for the most part, apart from their leg stabbing capabilities. They're obviously slightly harder to work on, but as soon as I realised I could strip and rebuild the entire hub without taking the non-drive side stud off, we were laughing. Seriously, try it next time - just take off the drive side one, take off the driver, then just hammer it all through and grease as required. Works easily, almost like having a one piece axle...

How big was that hop 45ish? Your bike looks alot better in blue :D

Just over 40", 'cos the markers are on every inch and the pole's half an inch thick. Got 41" or so later on after the comp, and 180'd 40" too. Turns out 40" is 5" over bar height for me, which I didn't realise. The WR hop is f**king monstrous.

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Just over 40", 'cos the markers are on every inch and the pole's half an inch thick. Got 41" or so later on after the comp, and 180'd 40" too. Turns out 40" is 5" over bar height for me, which I didn't realise. The WR hop is f**king monstrous.

It seems like it's alot higher in the photo.

WR hop?

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Hello,

Recently just got into bmx and was thinking of going to some dirt jumps tomorrow but i have no idea on how to hit them properly. Iv seen them before and the jumps are pretty big with a steep lip. So i was thinking it would be something like hitting it with the right speed and pulling up the front wheel when i get near the peak of the jump then sort of level out in the air? So i was just looking for any advice on how to approach it really.

Any tips or help is appreciated.

Bhups.

Edited by bhups
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Taking off isn't really the issue - a nicely made jump should pretty much send you without you needing to do much. A shit jump will require something along the lines of a bunnyhop to get you properly airborne. To get more distance you push into the lip as you take off like you would when popping onto the deck of a ramp

Landing is the tricky bit, if there's a sloped landing you need to nose down into it so both wheels hit at the same time (ish) it's smoother like that and you don't die.

not nosing down enough = looping out = hurting, nosing down too much = front wheel into lip = hurting

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I think the WR is 44", but Tom White "Unofficially" did 45" at the Backyard Jam in Sheffield last year, which was probably the only decent thing that happened all weekend. I reckon I've got a bit more to give, so to speak, so we'll see I guess. That was the first time I've properly measured what I can do, and I don't really plan on making a habit of it, so don't expect me to be appearing on the pages of the Guinness Records book any time soon. In other fun Mark news, I hurt both my knees a lot today, and in unrelated news I almost landed a cheeky 540 hop on flat.

Decent jumps should be pretty easy to launch off, as Poopipe said. Pumping into the take-off will help you out quite a lot, 'cos it means you start getting your weight balanced on the bike to drop the nose into the landing (or not, if it's to flat). Basically, push into the take-off as you're going up it, to get the "push" off the top that really boosts you out.

Nicky, what d'you mean "dip" your 180s? Have the back wheel higher than the front?

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