Josh Greenan!!!!!!!!!! Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 ok ill see what the funds say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 Shot the first few riding photos and portrait photos for Dig today, got a ridiculous photo from an abandoned hangar in an abandoned factory site near Farnborough. It involved an aeroplane, and a shitload of harddrives and monitors. Might even make it into the "Lost For Words" section, hopefully:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishayton Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 urgh , cracked my hubshell all the way around the non driveside flange. need a new hub/wheel. 9t pref. are the proper hubs ok? seem nice and light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 I thought the Proper hubs came with a 10t minimum? Probably fully wrong on that, but I thought 'cos they use a screw-on cog that was as small as they went. Either way, they're shite.Primo should do you fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishayton Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 I thought the Proper hubs came with a 10t minimum? Probably fully wrong on that, but I thought 'cos they use a screw-on cog that was as small as they went. Either way, they're shite.Primo should do you fine nah they do a one piece 9t driver. which primo hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskimo Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 nah they do a one piece 9t driver. which primo hub?Mix or Pro.Hoffman ones are only £40. Same as the Odyssey hubs no doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishayton Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Mix or Pro.Hoffman ones are only £40. Same as the Odyssey hubs no doubt.link? sounds promising, so far its holding itself together so im just gona wait till it explodes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 My brother's Hoffman was meh. Just made weird noises and skipped a lot.The Mix is on offer at either the Source, Cyclone or CyclesportLtd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 (edited) Well it seems Dads making me get a job after my birthday...5 days left of being a bum And i want to spend my money on a new bar and stem...So what could you reccomend?I was thinking odyessy elementary stem with animal tyrone pith bars? Sound good?opinions...money isn't much of a problem cos i have nothing else to spend my money on lol. So long as what i'm buying isn't stupid amounts of money Cheers gays!xxx Edited July 7, 2007 by Barber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishayton Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Well it seems Dads making me get a job after my birthday...5 days left of being a bum And i want to spend my money on a new bar and stem...So what could you reccomend?I was thinking odyessy elementary stem with animal tyrone pith bars? Sound good?opinions...money isn't much of a problem cos i have nothing else to spend my money on lol. So long as what i'm buying isn't stupid amounts of money Cheers gays!xxxthe kink stem looks really nice, light weight too (not far off the elementary ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 the elementary's main plus point is that it's cheap - there's plenty of other stems out there that are of a similar weight. there's only one disadvantage to an elementary and thats that you can't take the stem off without the bars loosening. I'm generally very happy with mine - it's never slipped and it's no real trouble to set up.bars? meh, buy based on geometry not who rides them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 erm, yeah2 things. Is one of those 510hx (or whatever) chains narrower than a shadow v2? my shadow eats my sprocket guard which i don't wantandWhat's the sort of lumpy, bumpy feeling that comes out of my geisha? It's very slight, I think it happens once per revolution of the wheel and I think it only happens when I'm going forwards (I tend to have other things on my mind when im going backwards so i may just not have noticed). I'm thinking it could need regreasing or the studs could be playing silly buggers at me. I greased it good when I put it all together but it's been a while now andit has rained a lot in that time.any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 the elementary's main plus point is that it's cheap - there's plenty of other stems out there that are of a similar weight. there's only one disadvantage to an elementary and thats that you can't take the stem off without the bars loosening. I'm generally very happy with mine - it's never slipped and it's no real trouble to set up.bars? meh, buy based on geometry not who rides them.I've not had much experience with bars though... And i don't know what geometry i'd like lol.I have premium products bars atm...they're perfect to be honest. Cut down like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 I've not had much experience with bars though... And i don't know what geometry i'd like lol.I have premium products bars atm...they're perfect to be honest. Cut down like.Find out the geometry on those (winstanleys list geo on everything so it's a good place to look) and stick to it if you like it. Width isn't really an issue cos you can just hold them further in towards the cross bar or just cut them down but height can make a big difference as to whether you can actually ride the bike properly or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 anybody got a guide to setting a u brake up? mine doesn't seem to really do much...got an evolver mk 1, spanish flies, linear slick, chrome balance rim and some odd lever until my new one arrives (the current lever could be the cause of my troubles)im gonna clean the rim, but my last brake (v) worked really well on it with koolstops? too well infact... the u brake is even shit for dabbing on manuals cos nothing really happens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 george french has a good guide somewhere - start at g-sport.co.uk and have a snout aroundit basically boils down to buckets of lube and getting spring tension right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 george french has a good guide somewhere - start at g-sport.co.uk and have a snout aroundit basically boils down to buckets of lube and getting spring tension right.its all about dual cable setups and has nothing about tension? how does tension make such a difference? i can understand the feel of the brake being affected, but not the power? at the moment i'm running a very well lubed linear slick and just enough tension so the brake springs back-it feels ultra light and smooth, with a nice solid lever feel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 its all about dual cable setups and has nothing about tension? how does tension make such a difference? i can understand the feel of the brake being affected, but not the power? at the moment i'm running a very well lubed linear slick and just enough tension so the brake springs back-it feels ultra light and smooth, with a nice solid lever feelhmmsounds like you've covered everything - maybe the pads are wank/contaminated/etc.?just take the fecker off - it's not like you need brakes anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 hmmsounds like you've covered everything - maybe the pads are wank/contaminated/etc.?just take the fecker off - it's not like you need brakes anywaysod having no brake, its fun for a while, then just gets boringpads are brand spankers! really should be ok-ill degrease the rim and lightly sand the pads just to make sure thoughdoes the length of the crossover wire make a difference? thats the only thing i can really think that should affect the brake now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 does the length of the crossover wire make a difference? thats the only thing i can really think that should affect the brake now?I'd always found that running it in front and around the seattube worked better than running it all behind - you get a straighter cable line so the power's going in the right direction.are the pads hitting the rim n all that ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 I'd always found that running it in front and around the seattube worked better than running it all behind - you get a straighter cable line so the power's going in the right direction.are the pads hitting the rim n all that ?yeah i have it going infront of the seatube, about an inch and a bit away from the cable stop, just like all the other u brake setups i've seen that work the pads hit flat, i know how to do that bit fine from running a v for so long i may try my coust/koolstop pads, see if they work...seems really odd!thanks for your help so far though im gonna put it down to a skanky rim and wait for new lever to arrive before i get really pissed off with the thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 I figured you'd be unlikely to have set it up all shite - don't give up on the forum for answers just cos I couldn't help, I haven't run a brake in ages and even when I did I never got it working as well as I thought it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 i may try my coust/koolstop pads, see if they work...seems really odd!im gonna put it down to a skanky rimMake sure not to contaminate your coust pads with the said skanky rim though. Anyone know the make/model of a bmx frame where the paint job fades from purple at the front to orange and the back of the frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 The thing with spring tension is that the more you put on, the more resistance you have to overcome to get it to lock, and then to hold it there. As a result, lubing the shit out of the posts, then sliding the brakes on, then setting them so they have the bare minimum of tension needed to pull them away from the rim works best. Then sort out straddle and regular cable length. Basically, lots of grease + minimum tension + bedded in pads () = nice brake. It could just be your lever's toss though, to be fair. Best lever I used was my Odyssey Mono small. So good! Just tweaked the end a bit for feel, and it was fine.Clean the rim though, and make sure the pads hit at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 Anyone know the make/model of a bmx frame where the paint job fades from purple at the front to orange and the back of the frame?it's probably a wethepeople - they do rancid paint jobs on their completessomebody (mark) answer my geisha question from the last page before I start dismantling things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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