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:o Poopipe in weight saving shocker, i hope you're taking the piss :P

don't worry, the powerbites are staying for now and my bars will never exceed 25" in width

I wouldn't mind shedding a half-pound of frame weight - the only bit that really gets a battering is the chainstays and I'm starting to shy away from really coarse concrete and bricks after a series of seriously bruised hip incidents anyway.

What I don't want is a geometry change - I've managed to nail the perfect front and rear end lengths, I'm happy with headangles and BB height I just fancy something a little more svelte. I won't bother unless I can lose a decent amount of weight - it just wouldn't be an upgrade.

the Simple looks good - why don't they make the bibi with 5mm dropouts ? bastards

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Hey Poo, looking around found this. The new Colony frame.

And well if you get tempted then you could have a matching bar as well.

Loads of stuff keeps coming out now. It's just silly. Although definatly a good thing i guess. Those pegs as well. And the Fit/ S&M slim seats.

Yeah those seats are real nice, not so sure about the kevlar version, but the vinyl one looks top notch, and so does the slim S&M. I preferd the seat that Eddie was running on his S3 with the plain black kevlar thing going down, instead of having the red bits on it.

Link for anybody that wants to see 'em: 4Down

I really really like the look of the new brakeless Hawks as well, and i was really tempted to get one, but i stuck with the Sunday in the end.

Edited by huck_it
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Poopipe - my brother's got the shorter LMF frame, and it feels super nice. The back end's short, but it's got a lower BB, so it's nice and stable, but spins super nicely. Can hop on that as well as I can hop on my Burlish too, so yeah, we're all good. It's a really, really good frame, I'd fully recommend it (Y)

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Poopipe - my brother's got the shorter LMF frame, and it feels super nice. The back end's short, but it's got a lower BB, so it's nice and stable, but spins super nicely. Can hop on that as well as I can hop on my Burlish too, so yeah, we're all good. It's a really, really good frame, I'd fully recommend it (Y)

The only thing that worries me about the shorter one is that I'm coming from frame with a back end that's 13.8 ish slammed and I'm really happy with it so I dont really want to put myself in a position where I can't get the same back end geometry happening.

seriously though- if I were to run big fat steel washers next to the dropouts on a bibi do you reckon it'd survive peg usage?

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The only thing that worries me about the shorter one is that I'm coming from frame with a back end that's 13.8 ish slammed and I'm really happy with it so I dont really want to put myself in a position where I can't get the same back end geometry happening.

seriously though- if I were to run big fat steel washers next to the dropouts on a bibi do you reckon it'd survive peg usage?

I seriously wouldn't advice it. Peg usage on a trails frame will probably result in a snaped back end, maybe you should try it though, see how long it lasts.. :P

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Anybody had one of these Twenty Tzar frames?

Just want something lite and cheapish but able to take a beating any ideas? under 100 would be nice

Pimp

Ps street frame

I imagen it can take a fair amount of abuse. The price might effect the build quality but from todays standards i would of thought it should make a difference. So it's a safe bet to buy this frame.

However there not in stock. Winstanleys have them even though they're nobs. There is also this. Free hs and bb full 4130 sanko tubing. Which is same as the Twenty. No doubt made in same factory by the same guy. I was thinking of buying this just to try out a 20.5" tt.

I have a question. Chains:

I want a black one. Guess it will end up being a KHE collapse. But others. KMC Z410H? Regina Chain/Loophole chain?

Any others?

I did have a black KHE chain which i doubt i'm ever getting back now although it wasn't ever in the deal. *short story but cba to explain*

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ok, question for the more experienced freecoaster users ...

You're doing 20mph backwards and there's people in the way. How the feck do you get off without spraining your ankle?

my ankle hurts :(

Edited by poopipe
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1. Loophole/Attila/Regina.

2. 410HX

3. Sprayed black 510HX

4. Piece of black cotton

5. KHE Collapse

In that order...

Why that order? The Collapse last, how come?

So where can i get one of these 410HX ones from?

The 510HX has some bad reviews and i don't like snapping chains.

ok, question for the more experienced freecoaster users ...

You're doing 20mph backwards and there's people in the way. How the feck do you get off without spraining your ankle?

my ankle hurts :(

Jump over the bars and send the bike still in fakie. Or be a man, pull a fat off slider :P

Or ding your bell. Most bikes are equiped with them these days, did you remove yours?

Sorry to hear it though.

could you not re-engage it to pedal and slow yourself down with the force from the pedals? or doesn't it work that way? :P

You can but you need to learn how to do it.

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ok, question for the more experienced freecoaster users ...

You're doing 20mph backwards and there's people in the way. How the feck do you get off without spraining your ankle?

my ankle hurts :(

At slower speeds just engaging it again does the trick (as im sure your aware), but i tend to go for the "f**king move" method, which consists of looking back and shouting like a complete nob until the obstruction does finally move *only works for people/sometimes animals* :P

Thats why now i always wait to check the line im gonna do and make sure it's clear, and wait for people to move before i do it.

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could you not re-engage it to pedal and slow yourself down with the force from the pedals? or doesn't it work that way? :P

at that sort of speed the last thing you want is for the pedals to re-engage, you invariably go miles into the air and land on your arse.

I cant do looking where im going yet and checking the line first is for poofs so I think ill opt for eskimoo's over the bars suggestion till i learn sliders

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at that sort of speed the last thing you want is for the pedals to re-engage, you invariably go miles into the air and land on your arse.

I cant do looking where im going yet and checking the line first is for poofs so I think ill opt for eskimoo's over the bars suggestion till i learn sliders

i just figured you could move your feet backwards again like you would with a cassette hub? Ah no that would re engage the freecoastingness...sorry i'm a dipshit!

Anyway, a friend is interested in buying a fit Edwin frame, i doubt anyones tried it yet, but opinions on how it'll handle for street. He'd be getting the 20.5tt version. Anybody know of anyone thats tried it?

EDIT: Poopipe, use your foot on your front tyre when your going backwards? Like if you were going forwards you'd use your foot on the rear to stop if your brakeless. :)

Edited by Barber
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i just figured you could move your feet backwards again like you would with a cassette hub? Ah no that would re engage the freecoastingness...sorry i'm a dipshit!

Anyway, a friend is interested in buying a fit Edwin frame, i doubt anyones tried it yet, but opinions on how it'll handle for street. He'd be getting the 20.5tt version. Anybody know of anyone thats tried it?

EDIT: Poopipe, use your foot on your front tyre when your going backwards? Like if you were going forwards you'd use your foot on the rear to stop if your brakeless. :)

That would work in theory but its the speed that gets you - I can't fakie at that sort of speed with a cassette, you get away with big 180s cos you're constantly engaged so you can slow the bike down from the start - if you're coasting backwards at speed and it suddenly engages it's a fair bit harder to catch up and you invariably end up on your arse.

This wil all go away with practice, Im just pretty new to the whole freecoastering experience.

and..

I've ridden the 20.5 edwin, one of the locals has one - it's a bit short for me but it's pretty well balanced.

You don't get much more street than edwin so it's gotta be good

Edited by poopipe
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NEED A FAST ANSWER!

whats the quickest way to remove a mid bb from a WTP phoenix frame?

And how do i fit a new one, along with cranks?

My cranks come and i can't fit the green thing in without taking the BB out i don't think.

EDIT: I'm starting to consider taking it up HELL frauds...don't make me do it!

EDIT2:

post-7073-1180767783_thumb.jpg - frame

post-7073-1180767800_thumb.jpg - what i need to fit!

Edited by Barber
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NEED A FAST ANSWER!

whats the quickest way to remove a mid bb from a WTP phoenix frame?

And how do i fit a new one, along with cranks?

My cranks come and i can't fit the green thing in without taking the BB out i don't think.

EDIT: I'm starting to consider taking it up HELL frauds...don't make me do it!

EDIT2:

post-7073-1180767783_thumb.jpg - frame

post-7073-1180767800_thumb.jpg - what i need to fit!

hammer and screwdriver? and then a soft mallet to refit? not definate answers but should work.

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say that again...and pretend your talking to a 5 year old.

I'm guessing you mean the piece that goes through the centre of the sprocket?

yeh, its a small bit of metal shaped like a tophat, it goes through the sprocket and fits over the axle.

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Basically it does the same as a 'shim' would but for yor sprocket. Problem being the machining isn't always very on them and you still get a 'tight spot'. Ask anyone, they will have it as well. Also bent axles and freewheels can cause this problem. As long as it's not too bad and your cranks are smooth i wouldn't worry. But make sure you keep a little slack on your chain. If it's any use mine likes to jump around alot.

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