eskimo Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 I'm a little confused on this one. "how to make a freecoaster".LINK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 that's the same way i made my old one - except i had a tuff 2 with a coaster. you get an old school suntour style coasterbrake (as in back pedal brake) hub, whip the brake bits out, replace a washer or two and voila - freecoaster (the details are a little sketchy, i did it about 12 years ago). sad things ...you can't do it on a standard cassette hub. suntour coasterbrake hubs are open bearing, only come in 10mm and break ALL the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskimo Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 that's the same way i made my old one - except i had a tuff 2 with a coaster. you get an old school suntour style coasterbrake (as in back pedal brake) hub, whip the brake bits out, replace a washer or two and voila - freecoaster (the details are a little sketchy, i did it about 12 years ago). sad things ...you can't do it on a standard cassette hub. suntour coasterbrake hubs are open bearing, only come in 10mm and break ALL the timeI was just curious really. I can't see myself trusting a bodged hub to be honest. Doing brakeless taps and just hopping off something homemade is like running a plastic chain on a trials bike.Would be fun to make though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A!! Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 (edited) Has anyone here cut down their dropouts, as i have been wondering if i should do it. And as i run a slammed backwheel now there is quite a bit i could remove from them.So is there any do's and don'ts when cutting them down? Or is it just a case of removing how much you want to? And also what is the best tool for going about doing it, as i know when i tried to cut down some old federal bars i have, it took forever and a day using a hacksaw (although it was pretty blunt). I'm also thinking about shortening my seat post, as it is pretty long and unneeded, as i run my seat pretty low. So again is there any minimums when doing it, as i don't want to cut it too short? Edited February 12, 2007 by huck_it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 heat treated cromo + hacksaw = bloody long time. I'd use a grinderbut why mutilate your frame? you might decide you want a longer back end one day, change your gearing etc.. as for the seatpost...given that the seattube is where all the forces that hit your frame end up I reckon it's safer to leave the post alone. if I were to cut mine i'd make sure it came down past the toptube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskimo Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 heat treated cromo + hacksaw = bloody long time. I'd use a grinderbut why mutilate your frame? you might decide you want a longer back end one day, change your gearing etc.. as for the seatpost...given that the seattube is where all the forces that hit your frame end up I reckon it's safer to leave the post alone. if I were to cut mine i'd make sure it came down past the toptubeI did cut my macneil post down :$ It was like 10 foot long though. Now at a safe yet shorter length of around 7".I wouln't cut my dropouts down neither chop the brake mounts off. Resale value as well.How do you get away with slammed dropouts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 How do you get away with slammed dropouts?baggy chain ? that's how I've done it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A!! Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 baggy chain ? that's how I've done itYeah, that is basically why, as when i changed my gearing i took a few links out, and took out one too many, and as i like to run a bit of a slack chain, i now have to slam it. I was just considering doing it because i like to do stuff on my bike to make it mine, and customise things to suit me. Plus i just like working on bikes in general. And i can also save weight for when i get some slams on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 With my seat-post, I just cut it down so when it was where I needed it to be, the post went down at least past the half-way mark of the top-tube. It's slammed so it doesn't matter too much, but as a general rule, it has to at least go past the bottom of the top-tube. I cut my seat-tube down a bit too, 'cos it stuck out a load above the top-tube, so I just reduced it a bit.With drop-outs, just mark out where you want it to go. If you're worried about resale value, just mark out enough space for a little bit of rearward movement and enough size for a peg, mark it out, then just use a grinder. Measure twice, cut once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 And i can also save weight for when i get some slams on it you could just buy bars that aren't 3 feet wide and save the weight that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 shall i use tensioners, or shove the wheel as far up the drops outs as possible, get the chain the right length, and tighten the bolts up like a jew hoe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A!! Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 shall i use tensioners, or shove the wheel as far up the drops outs as possible, get the chain the right length, and tighten the bolts up like a jew hoe? I have never found any use for tensioners, it just complicates things that don't really need to be complicated. And even when i ran pegs i never used any, granted i never did any massive grinds, but still. And you are going pegless aren't you? so personally i would say that there is no need for them, especially if you start to do pegless grinds, because the chances are you are just going to destroy them anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 was gonna get pegs on the right side occasionally, thanks, no tensioners it is then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 was gonna get pegs on the right side occasionally, thanks, no tensioners it is then.tensioners are more hassle than they're worth, I kept ovalising or breaking mine (particularly on icepicks) which pretty well leaves you f**ked unless you've got tools with you and if you're going to take tools out you might as well save yourself the hassle of pissing around with tensioners in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 gonna sound like a complete newbzor now, but i've noticed when going through crank options, a lot of them seem to have the crank 'spindle?' incuded, does that push through your BB? Surely the cranks would be lose and go ape shit everywhere? Its all so completely different than trials Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 haaaah!! nooobz0rrrz!!!erYes the spindle goes through the dirty great hole in the middle of the bearings. There's a spacer that goes around the spindle inbetween the bearings and keeps everything in place that way. On the press fit (spanish/mid) systems you have to bash the bearings into the frame pretty hard so they won't fall out, with euro there's threads and on US the cups kinda hold everything together - plus theres the crank arms outside that.The MTB cartridge BB system is shit, the bmx one is the way it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 thanks for clarifying blud!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickyw Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 (edited) Huck it's a trend-setter! Remember...Bank's next week! Would my front wheel be ok for at least 2 month's? Because it has 4 spokes missing out of 36 (Theres one hanging there so make that 5) and needs a bit of trueing...I havnt had problems from it yet though. Edited February 15, 2007 by nickyw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Huck it's a trend-setter! Remember...Bank's next week! Would my front wheel be ok for at least 2 month's? Because it has 4 spokes missing out of 36 (Theres one hanging there so make that 5) and needs a bit of trueing...I havnt had problems from it yet though.the simplest test is to huck yourself down a ten set into a nose manual. if it holds up to that you'll be fine for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A!! Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 the simplest test is to huck yourself down a ten set into a nose manual. if it holds up to that you'll be fine for a while Take no note of poopipe, he despises 36h wheels so much that he will go to great extents to remove one more off the street, in which ever way possible On a serious note, i run 36h front and rear, and like i said on msn i would deffo get it fixed. If it was 48h then it wouldn't be as big a problem, but with it being 36h you are pushing your luck a bit, plus it is quite an easy thing to fix or get fixed. And about the ride Nicky, i haven't been on msn for a few days so i will speak to you either tonight or tomorrow night a bit more about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Take no note of poopipe, he despises 36h wheels so much that he will go to great extents to remove one more off the street, in which ever way possible my point still stands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Clark Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Anyone have any recommendations for a cheapish, light, good looking front wheel?I have COMPLETELY shagged the bearings in my current one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 (edited) Anyone have any recommendations for a cheapish, light, good looking front wheel?I have COMPLETELY shagged the bearings in my current one.gusset You can get a complete wheel with sealed bearings for about £40. I've had a big fat Huka complete for a few months and it's holding up fine - The factory build is a bit ropey but you can get your spoke key out and sort that when required. The hubs are pretty good quality by the look/feel of them (the 14mm is at least). They do lightweight girly 36 spoke completes with wussy rims for the weigh nancies as well. Edited February 16, 2007 by poopipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskimo Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 There's always the classic bmx-shop wheels, But seriously them and winstanley's have a few alright wheels if you don't have much cash.Also try cyclesport.Wheels to look out for, Eastern and Prolite hubs with Alex rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 (edited) to pay the extra, or to not pay the extra?Wheel build onewheel build 2 +£8 for 48h and i want it crome.So yea, which one?EDIT: Oh yes, is there anything better that i could buy for the same ammount of money that i could buy, that would be better? or even anything cheaper thats better? Edited February 17, 2007 by Barber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.