Bmx Questions

[A!!]

i never really specified how i was going to 360, so the easiest way, like the exiting of a bank or something...

where can i buy animal products from? has to be from a online store thats in the uk

I found the best place to do them is out of a bank, and that way you can slightly carve into them.

About the animal stuff, i don't know what parts your looking for, but places that stock their stuff and that are good shops:

source bmx

Alans

There are a few other places that stock abikeco stuff if whatever you are looking for isn't in either of them.

Edited January 30, 2007 by huck_it

[Sponge]

Woo, chuffed with the speedy replies from Gaz@MutinyBikes

Now I've made a decision on the frame, i'll have to choose other bits, I was considering the following and your opinions would be great

Madera Protocol crankset (It includes a Hop Up kit right?)

Shadow Attack stem

Shadow Fork OR Odyssey Svelte Pro Dirt fork

FSA Impact headset (or is there another integ. headset that's more popular?)

Of course, an extra exam question for OBM:

London Examinations IGCSE Onzaboymark Examination (Specimen Paper)

Q.11. Describe, using clear English, why does Mark dislike the Shadow Conspiracy? Explain your answer with evidence to support your answer. (5 marks)

[Mark W]

Their DVD was over-priced at £19.99, badly edited and without much decent riding in. Then, to top it off, they decided to make it so it had hidden sections, meaning that unless you went online and realised it had hidden sections, you were getting even more done over than you were by simply buying the DVD in the first place.

Their products are pretty shite. Their stems always seem to slip, their other bits 'n' bobs tend to be fairly generic tat, and the colourways on a lot of their products are gash.

Their advertising campaigns are (almost always) complete shite. See also: "The Calling" DVD adverts. Weak shit.

They try and pass themselves off as 'serious' then do mundane, bone things that are blatantly just all about the publicity. See also: The whole "We have a model rider" thing.

The way they steadfastedly make their grips out of 35durometer rubber when they NEED to be harder. Everyone says it, they refuse to change. It's f**king ridiculous.

Their new products are all pretty wank. The way they copied the Himiko rim, but badly, for their "Rota" rims or whatever they're called is the pinnacle of shitness.

They're just generally a shit company.

As such, don't get the Shadow Attack stem. There are way better stems out there for the money (Animal Jump-Off, FBM Crown Royal, Odyssey Elementary if you like an overly fiddly stem, etc.). By the same token, just get some Odyssey Pro Race forks. They're strong, light, and pretty all-round good. They're also only £50 from most places, so why not? They do me OK, and a shitload of harsh peg-abusers use them too and they're fine. Lifetime guarantee as well, shit's tight.

Impact headsets are good

Cranks-wise, WTP Royals might be a better bet. The Madera stuff just seems a bit... meh. Their rear hubs are utterly terrible. They're probably the worst component released in the last few years, and that's saying something. It is Profile though, afterall

Regarding Animal/ABikeCo stuff, most shops do it now. Winstanleys, Alans, Pijin, Edwardes, TheSource (I think?), etc. - there's a load of places you can get your swag from.

[eskimo]

Their DVD was over-priced at £19.99, badly edited and without much decent riding in. Then, to top it off, they decided to make it so it had hidden sections, meaning that unless you went online and realised it had hidden sections, you were getting even more done over than you were by simply buying the DVD in the first place.

Where are the hidden sections?

[BONGO]

I've got knee gaskets which are indeed nice for falling off and not bashing & grazing your kneecaps but my main problem is actually a mildly torn cruciate ligament so it's twisting and bending that f**k me up rather than impacts.

oh yeah..

and profile are gay. their stuff is for racing, it will break and it costs too much

"mildly torn"?!?!? Which cruciate ligament??? I'm waiting for my knee reconstruction at the moment.

And profile doesn't break you gimp. You pay for aerospace Ti that is lighter than cheaper grades, lifetime warrenty and products that last years. (my Profile hub is 6 years old, perfect condition.

The Madera stuff just seems a bit... meh. Their rear hubs are utterly terrible. They're probably the worst component released in the last few years, and that's saying something.

ok, explain why....

Have you ridden one??? What was wrong with it?? it did't slip i'll tell you that much.

[Mark W]

Apparently I got the wrong end of the stick, so apologies to Tom for that.

[BONGO]

Apparently I got the wrong end of the stick, so apologies to Tom for that.

i dunno who's told you that, and it could be true, but i'd be surprised. I know tom. we both got asked to ride for madera on tha same day and i got my wheel running about a month before him. Mine are fine, (that was in May). The bearings are the same as in the profile hubs, which, incidentally, are the same size as Primo and Odyssey hub bearings. Also, i know tom is in touch with Matt Coplon, the profile dude in Florida, as am i, and we regularly update each other with how things are going. I know for a fact Matt would not allow Tom to buy a profile hub because his Madera was going wrong. If it was clear to profile that the hub wasn't working right, howcome tom had to buy a profile hub??? Knowing how profile treat me when it comes to sending me stuff etc, i'm leaning to ward the thinking that you heard this through the pipeline and not from the horses mouth.

It would be replaced no matter who you are, nevermind if you ride for them! Also, they were tested for a LONG time. I held a prototype that had been ridden for a few months, at Deby Backyard Jam...

Each to their own, but i can't exactly keep quiet when something i have had no trouble with at all for a long time, is labelled as shit and breaks after 2 days!

bongholio

[Mark W]

If you meant I'd heard it through the grapevine that Tom was running a Profile, I didn't, as when I rode with him when he first had that Profile wheel on he told me about it. If you meant about the Madera, on Bikeguide there was a thread about them and about 10 people with similar experiences to Mike spoke up, and someone said that they're revising the hub.

just get the profile. madera is totally redesigning the rear hub cause its not that good

That didnt solve the wobble problem on a brand new mini i had. Infact when i asked profile for the spacer they said they didnt do a spacer that cures a wobble.

ive had at least 12ish profile hubs all with wobble or seizing problems (Mostly all profiles that have went to shit on mates and then sold to me cheap) and two or three brand new ones that have wobbled out of the box

the madera hub is the worst hub ever, i wont even get started on that.

Ive had profiles for 6 years no problems.

Ive also heard Maderas are dog shit.

dont ever get a madera hub, biggest piece of shit ever.

Primo Mix ***!

nooooooo madera....... had one. bad. just get profile.

wait till the new madera rear hub comes out, you'll be pleased

Don't do it listen to every one wait till the new one comes out.

Although there was also this:

Here's some things that can cause profile hub to wobble.

1.Bad bearings. Wich can be easily replaced

2.The Conespacers could be crushed. They also can be easily replaced

3.The hub might need some/new shims

4.Some times worn out springs and paws can make them wobble.

I'm tired of you kids hating on shit when you hit some problems. If 100 people bought a certin part atleast 5 of those people will have some sort of problem. I've had terrible luck with Primo hubs. Alot of my friends had problems with the Mix, like the drivers on the Mix just exploded and seizing.

I've had problems with the Odyssey cassette just becuase, I had problems with them I'm not going to be like a little panzy and say oh odyssey sucks balls. Every problem can be solved.

Also I never had a problem with Profile parts ever. Never had wobbles in the cranks or hubs. Never had a problem with warrente.

If you are going to disrespect someone don't plan on getting respect.

The Madera Cassette is very nice I know a few kids with them and have not had a problem with them. The quality is just as good Profile cassettes as have I seen.

I'm well aware that Bikeguide's a big bag of shit, but there are a couple of threads about the Madera stuff, and these posts from one of them represent the rest pretty well.

I don't doubt that Madera and Profile are all fine and dandy and stuff, but that hub just doesn't seem to be. I guess it could just be because you're riding park all the time and Mike/Tom ride street, so maybe it's under less stress when you ride? I'm not saying you're shit or anything, but it'll be under less strain from landing into transition or banks than landing to flat a lot, and so on. Are you sure they're the same bearing as Odyssey & Primo, btw? I thought they were different, at least I thought they had different codes? It just seems weird, because I've heard of more people who own Profile/Madera hubs having issues with bearings than anyone with a Hazard hub.

[BONGO]

Are you sure they're the same bearing as Odyssey & Primo, btw? I thought they were different, at least I thought they had different codes? It just seems weird, because I've heard of more people who own Profile/Madera hubs having issues with bearings than anyone with a Hazard hub.

Yeah they are technically a different size, but in reality, there is nothing in it, if you get me!!!

Indeedy i know what you mean that street is tougher on parts that park i can see that . I can't believe he bought a profile though?!???

[eskimo]

American made products aren't always worth it. I've heard so many good things about Odyssey parts and their warranties plus there made in Taiwan or somewhere similar. But to be fair they have been producing parts for a long time.

On another note Profile hubs are more of a fashion than a product of good choice. I hear people rant about the Odyssey cassette hub alot, saying how long they last. I still fail to believe Profile are producing better products than some companies. The products being built in America are suppost to built to higher more precise standard so why do the hubs wobble? But the bearings are Japanese i guess like most others.

To be fair S&M don't give warranties even though they said they do. Anyone hear how Hidden Nation products were a bag of turd? What was the deal with RNC and what grade of TI do Loophole use?

[poopipe]

"mildly torn"?!?!? Which cruciate ligament??? I'm waiting for my knee reconstruction at the moment.

knee...

I got a tiny little tear in the one the hurts when you bend your knee rather than the one that hurts when you straighten it.

I can't remember which one that is - anterior and posterior are very similar words when you're wincing cos your knee really hurts and some tart in a blue suit is bending it to see how much more she can make you suffer - still, I'm sure you know all about that one. I'll probably get told again tomorrow cos my physio sessions start.

edit::

I'm very dim - given that all the pain is at the back and posterior means back it's obviously the PCL

::edit/

It's not particularly serious, I did it when i twisted my knee on a miniramp in early autumn last year - it had me off my bike for a couple/three months and apart from some stiffness and not being able to pedal sitting down without crying anymore (sensible seat height not fashion fag slammed seating) i'm pretty well sorted. Nothing like the damage you've had at all.

profile ...

I'm still stuck in the era when bikes weighed 40lbs, therefore anything with racing written on it is dangerous

Edited February 1, 2007 by poopipe

[A!!]

Got my new wheel today with the coaster. Got into a bit of a mucking fuddle trying to change the slack, but once that was sorted it was all good.

So i have a couple of questions:

First what kind of grease do i want to be using when i lube it up (the hub ), and when do you suggest to take it apart and lube it. I have already had it apart a few times so i know what to do now.

And with the spokes, after i go for a ride on saturday, i'm going to give the spokes a good check, as they would of bedded in. So for tightening them up is there a technique, like a 1/4 turn on each spoke or something, or is it just down to what they feel like when you pinch them.

Edited February 1, 2007 by huck_it

[Mark W]

Yeah, just do 'em all up 'til they kinda feel hard to pull together, if you get me? That's what I usually do. With the grease, I generally go for some pretty thick lithium grease. Just keep doing it 'til it remains feeling the way you want it to; I had to keep doing shit to mine every few days for the first 2 weeks whilst it bedded in.

[eskimo]

I have been running no chain for 2 days now. After using a chain its so wierd. Fakies are soo fast now. I was like 'duck duck duck this is fast' when i 180'd our spine. Although i've got sliders out of any speed now so its cool. Just leaning back and sideways a little and just turning the wheel untill you eventually slide round. I got full cabs now but not every time. God help me for opposite ones. I also found half cabs up and down stuff is so much harder as i don't turn into it like i would with a chain. It's like real late i think that's why its so sketchy. Although fat off fakie hops are awesome.

Do you guys engage the coaster now and then to lock the wheel when doing fakies to pull certain tricks, to get that extra pop?

[poopipe]

you're brave you are. I always bash my knees a lot if i've got no chain on

woop! woop! . PCL (it was the PCL) is completely healed - only took 6 months

bad news...

I've got a tear in my meniscus that will never, ever go away

coasters definitely got to happen now cos it's affecting my fakies - and i still get to girl out of stuff cos of a bad knee

[A!!]

I have been running no chain for 2 days now. After using a chain its so wierd. Fakies are soo fast now. I was like 'duck duck duck this is fast' when i 180'd our spine. Although i've got sliders out of any speed now so its cool. Just leaning back and sideways a little and just turning the wheel untill you eventually slide round. I got full cabs now but not every time. God help me for opposite ones. I also found half cabs up and down stuff is so much harder as i don't turn into it like i would with a chain. It's like real late i think that's why its so sketchy. Although fat off fakie hops are awesome.

Do you guys engage the coaster now and then to lock the wheel when doing fakies to pull certain tricks, to get that extra pop?

Yeah when i was chainless (waiting for my new wheel) thats exactly how it felt to me. Like when i first got on i couldn't turn into spins like i use to, as i was use to keeping a slight bit of pressure on the pedals when entering the spin. So when i had no chain i had to do them where i would hop then spin round, it just felt a bit different (like slightly delayed). And now i have a chain back on again, when i do go for spins it feels strange because there is an opposing force against the pedal, so the first few i did went a bit tits up.

Now i have got the coaster on though, i have set it up with the most slack (taking out the washers), as with the way it came it was literally like a few degrees before it would engage again, so i got sent a few times. So i whipped it off and removed the washers so it is a hundred times better now. So it makes it pretty hard to engage it unless i really mean to, so in answer to your question no i don't as i haven't really needed to. I also found that when i do a fakie b-hop it feels nicer than doing them forward. And when i do things like x-up b-hops they feel better doing them fakie than forwards, 'tis strange.

Another thing that i have got into a habbit of doing now, is half cabs but the opposite way (to the right, when i use to do them to the left), which is pretty strange because i 180 to the left to get into the fakie then 180 back the same way out.

Edit: one last thing; you know when you tighten the axle studs up, how tight are you meant to do them. Because everytime i get them nice and tight, i put the wheel back on the bike but it is very tight and stops the pedals from being able to turn, so i loosen the axles off a bit and it turns better. But surely you don't want axles that aren't nice and tight

Edited February 2, 2007 by huck_it

[eskimo]

Another thing that i have got into a habbit of doing now, is half cabs but the opposite way (to the right, when i use to do them to the left), which is pretty strange because i 180 to the left to get into the fakie then 180 back the same way out.

Edit: one last thing; you know when you tighten the axle studs up, how tight are you meant to do them. Because everytime i get them nice and tight, i put the wheel back on the bike but it is very tight and stops the pedals from being able to turn, so i loosen the axles off a bit and it turns better. But surely you don't want axles that aren't nice and tight

I ain't to sure with the Geisha as it has that EAS system. But i guess you should make sure the cones are done up fingure tight and the bolts/nuts very tight. But thats how a normal hub would be. So maybe the cones which are part of the EAS system (?) should be done up with a spanner? It may have something to do with your frame not excepting a low gear? Other than that i haven't a clue. But i guess that question was for OBM as he has one.

How are your fakie manuals with those Geisha hubs? Like on jump boxes and manual pads they are rather easier as long as the manual pad ain't more than 2 bike lengths long. But i mean like when rolling fakie just casually (as you do ) then pulling a manual, how are those? I can't fakie manual in a straight line at all with no chain. The bike just tips over. It ain't no where easy as a forwards manual.

Can anyone nose manual very well as well? I haven't bothered with hang5s and 10s but i have done a few normal nose manuals at slow speed on some pads but can't get more than a bike length conistently.

[poopipe]

the only way i can go more than about a bike length on a nose manual is to go really bloody fast - even then you probably couldn't call it a proper nose manual, it's more of an extended nose bonk and I have to hop into it or the back end just won't come up. I have the same sort of problems with normal manuals as well so it could just be me.

re. freecoasters. how far do you have to spin the crank to get an engagement on the tightest and slackest settings on those geisha jobs ? - I guess the reverse will be about the same.

ooh, and rims to go on my new wheelset. specifically a question for eskimo cos i know he likes em tough.

I want black 48s that i can drop 5 foot to flat (harshly) on every time i go out for the next 2-3 years. Ideally they'll weigh less than a pony but I'm not too bothered.

supra E light? big city? something else? - I dont really want to spend 70quid each end for the rims so g-sport and the expensive odysseys are out.

[A!!]

My nose manuals are coming along pretty well now, and i have found the easiest place to do them is over an island thing that you find in car parks (the ones which are about a bike length). Then i ride up to it lift the front wheel on but flick the back end up at the same time and nose manual to the end of the island and hop down. I also found if you flick the back end out a bit it helps to go a bit further.

About the engagement thing. When i got mine as standard (thats 3 spacers in), it was near impossible to do anything but roll backwards (like no fakie b-hops or manuals) as it would engage with the smallest of pedal movements, i'm talking about two inches or so. As for running two spacers i wouldn't know as i just whipped it apart and took all the three of the spacers out, and that gives just under a 1/4 of a pedal stroke for it to engage. According to the khe website you can also flip the large washer around, which gives the maximum amount of slack. I might try it tomorrow and see what it feels like.

Have a gander at this, it will probably help you understand the slack you can run on it: Khe webpage

Edited February 3, 2007 by huck_it

[Sponge]

Freecoasters.. I was actually thinking of getting a serious flatlander not long ago, but the whole idea of this type of hub seems awfully complex!

But, I'm going to be riding a bit of brakeless once I've built together a bike (frame ordered, still need to decide on other bits). I expect brakeless is ridiculously hard to get used to at first and then eventually gets rather suave after a while? The only thing I'm concerned about is the safety factor behind brakeless.. when I want to do dirt or park/ramp riding. Anyone do these without brakes?

Oh yeah, and something I've been rather curious about: how come 95% of BMXers I see are grinding/jumping to the side of their forward foot? I know why trials riders do it to the back foot side normally, but I'm surprised that less BMXers are doing it to the back foot side. I'm going to be doing pegless riding and brakeless riding at the same time for street, so I'll have to do pedal grinds Josh Bedford-esque to the back pedal, so it's LHD for me.

In any case, I'm still debating over which rear hub to get. Proper Magnalite or Odyssey Hazard?

[A!!]

Freecoasters.. I was actually thinking of getting a serious flatlander not long ago, but the whole idea of this type of hub seems awfully complex!

But, I'm going to be riding a bit of brakeless once I've built together a bike (frame ordered, still need to decide on other bits). I expect brakeless is ridiculously hard to get used to at first and then eventually gets rather suave after a while? The only thing I'm concerned about is the safety factor behind brakeless.. when I want to do dirt or park/ramp riding. Anyone do these without brakes?

The coasters are actually easy as to take apart on service, takes about the same time to do it as servicing my eno does. All you have to is get the stages clear in you head, and then its a doddle. For servicing it all you need to do is just take it apart and lube it all up, so it is nice and smooth. In actual fact i think i mine go and do mine in a minute, and then i can try flip the washer over as well.

As for the brakeless thing, i, like you was worried about how safe it would be. But in the end poopipe won me over and converted me to being brakless, and i love it (so i currently have a brakeless frame). It is one of those things that when you first do, everything feels proper scary, and just riding down the road worries you 'cause you feel like there is no way to stop (nothing a pair of shoes can't deal with). But over time you just get used to it, and when you go round corners you just cover the backwheel with your foot incase you need to. And everything feels silky smooth with no brakes, plus there is no brake to faff around with when you need to take your wheel out.

[poopipe]

i've got a hazard and it hasn't broken. Joe maher had the hub before me and he didn't break it either. Never owned the proper hub but there's a few floating around on the locals bikes and I've not heard anything negative about them.

grinding on the forward foot side.... generally speaking that's the outside foot when people spin their natural way so it just kinda works out like that.

I've found that when a grind goes dodgy (eg. a feeble gets a bit too kinked for comfort) it's nice to have the grind side pedal at the front to steady yourself and turn your cock-up into a stylish pedal/crank arm/sprocket/frame grind (depending on circumstances).

That said, when I do opposite grinds i keep my right foot forward and it's not really any trouble spinning the cranks round if i need the extra security.

as far as LHD and RHD go - you'll probably want the cog on your back foot side unless you like sprocket grinds

brakeless.. i think there's an essay above about that but here it is in a nutshell.

trails - bad idea (60mph into tree = death)

ramps (minis etc) - scary to start with but matt hoffman does it so it must be a good idea

park - good idea

street - it's not street if you have brakes

[eskimo]

Poopipe as for rims your choices are the reliable Hazard Light £50, Midway £55 even stronger but heavier, like you said the supra E lites £40? haven't heard much on them but they looked alright, a supra G £30 super solid and i mean solid but with a little extra weight (i rode these for a while), maybe a big city, stay away from 7 series alloy rims, BRF's aren't really that good or try a Black Box on the front £10 in black but single wall i run on my trials bike oh oh oh and very light. Perhaps you could try the KHE flexie spokes and also Prolite spokes are £10 for 100! Or the casual Mutiny spokes. Supra G's you won't break although i flat spotted one so i recommend those, plus they're cheap.

Grinds with pedals with no pegs. Front foot for stalls and easy to control and ledges that will slide. Back foot for anything you can use it for. The back foot won't get you into trouble, sprockets, krooks, pedal picks all good for the back foot. But the front foot can cause you to go flying if you ain't carefull. Also try switching it up, flick those pedals round.

No brakes? No brakes makes the bike feel rather superior. I live around the hills but just walk down the dodgey ones. The long fast ones i just fly down but keep my eyes open as i know there is a school down one of them. Also plan your moves away from cars. I don't slide my foot on the tyre or on the floor unless in a real emergency as i don't want to wear them down. But in a real emergency i just jump off the back and roll it out. Let the bike go why try and stop your wheels. I ride ramp most of the time just because our street spots aren't all that good. But the few times i have encountered a car i have had a brake as i think, 'yeah ill go down this hill fast as i can, i've got a brake' dumb thinking. No brakes keeps you safe.

Thanks for the nose manual help but i know if i end up flicking the back end round i won't end up balancing plus i can't jump over the bars when i flip out.

Another question with the Geisha, i have noticed not many run pegs with them. Do they get destroyed easily? But they have got the EAS system so surely not.

I had another fun session today with the chain off. But didn't end up trying anything new.

[A!!]

No brakes? No brakes makes the bike feel rather superior. I live around the hills but just walk down the dodgey ones. The long fast ones i just fly down but keep my eyes open as i know there is a school down one of them. Also plan your moves away from cars. I don't slide my foot on the tyre or on the floor unless in a real emergency as i don't want to wear them down. But in a real emergency i just jump off the back and roll it out. Let the bike go why try and stop your wheels. I ride ramp most of the time just because our street spots aren't all that good. But the few times i have encountered a car i have had a brake as i think, 'yeah ill go down this hill fast as i can, i've got a brake' dumb thinking. No brakes keeps you safe.

Thanks for the nose manual help but i know if i end up flicking the back end round i won't end up balancing plus i can't jump over the bars when i flip out.

Another question with the Geisha, i have noticed not many run pegs with them. Do they get destroyed easily? But they have got the EAS system so surely not.

I had another fun session today with the chain off. But didn't end up trying anything new.

The no brakes keep you safe bit is very true. It makes you a lot more aware, instead of day dreaming or not being clued in just 'cause you have a brake on even though it may not be good enough to stop you at full wack. I am a lot more aware when i'm on my bike than a lot of my friends are who run both brakes. Like a while back one of them managed to hit a stationary car (was very funny for me, but not for him or the owner).

About running pegs, i have read (i think it was on that bike guide forum thing) about a few people that have ran pegs with them, and some say their axles are absolutely fine, others say they have ended up slightly bending them. So i guess its a case of taking what you want from that, but i know i'm not going to, simply 'cause i don't really want to risk it even with the axles designed so they can be removed when they snap. Doesn't Dan Cox have a geisha street and runs pegs as well? I think it is one of those things that if you do decide to do, you just have to keep a check on them and make sure that you aren't bending them.

Another qeustion to join the on going coaster talk: Basically when i took it apart earlier and cleaned it all up, filpped the washer to get maximum slack, lubed it up, and put it back together, then got it back on the bike again, i noticed it was really hard to move the cranks backwards, and it felt pretty tight. So i loosened off the axle nuts again, to see if it made any difference, and when they were looser the cranks would move backwards fine, so it did them up again and the same thing happend where it would feel quite tight to move the cranks backwards.

So i whipped the wheel out again to try and work out what was wrong, but i couldn't really work out what it was. I tried loosening the axle studs off to see if it was that, but they weren't very tight in the first place. So then i took the driver off and tapped the the aluminium spindle from the drive side, to try bring the non drive side bearing out a bit. So after i had done that i put both axle studs back in, tightend them up a bit, then put the wheel back on the bike and tightend the axle nuts to keep the wheel in place; and then i tried moving the pedals backwards a bit to see if it was still doing the same thing where it would feel tight when i spun the cranks round backwards, but it felt a lot better and the cranks will now spin backwards a lot better, and it doesn't feel as tight.

But the thing is, i have no idea why it happend in the first place, and why it was fine after i fiddled with it a bit, it just doesn't make much sense to me

Edited February 3, 2007 by huck_it

[Sponge]

Righto guys, I've got a plan for myself, in terms of riding (brakeless and pegless).

I won't be using rear pegs, and I won't use a rear brake due to my frame's properties (and I don't regret it). Thus I will have to do pedal grinds, meaning that I'll grind on my right pedal 'cos I'm left foot forward. This'll be done completely brakeless, but also more importantly here's what I was thinking:

get LHD

get one peg on the right dropout of my fork

put a 'bashguard' onto the right crank.

possibly slap on a hubguard onto my non-drive side of my rear hub (in my case it's the right)

Of course LHD is so that I don't mash up my drivetrain during backpedal grinding.

The single peg on my fork is an extra piece for me to grind on simultaneously with my backpedal so together they stabilise the bike well during grinding.

Since I'm going LHD, my right crank'll have a mounting hole free, so I was thinking of getting a friend to customise a bashguard type thing which is ideally a sprocket but smooth so that when I do backpedal grinding I don't risk scraping the hell out of my frame's bottom bracket shell or downtube/chainstays in general since the bashguard'll block a messed up pedalgrind from letting the frame get onto the grindledge.

Seems like a PLAN to me, but what's your take on this guys? The bashguard on right crank idea is just so I don't risk sliding my frame onto obstacles whilst grinding on the backpedal, I'm thinking a 23t sprocket sort-of diameter for the bashguard.