Bmx Questions

[eskimo]

Mark, what gear ratio are you running on your bike?

Just for a quick answer, he is running a Geisha yeah? Therefore 25/9 2.75 ratio almost which is standard.

The bulish would be good for a light weight frame. I would say it would colapse if you ran pegs on it and were real heavy.

The captain seems like its more of a heavy weight dirt/ ramp frame. The 74 HA wouldn't be very responsive. Also the weight shows it will last 4 years+ even for heavy weight riders.

The eden was available in short sizes previously and is a nice frame standard/ usual/ casual frame. My mate has the 05 one in short. Looked nice with cool graphics untill he sprayed it a gay purple.

The sinister is my personal favourite to be honest. Another standard frame but available in some intresting sizes.

[poopipe]

sounds like karma to me

only if he's inhaled his seat again. I've basically got a map of india in deep purple running from my hip to halfway down my thigh. I'm never, ever hitting that facking rail in the dark again and im buying some bumpads before i go near it in the daytime.

I'll post a pic of my arse up in a couple of days when the bruise has finished growing

[Barbra]

only if he's inhaled his seat again. I've basically got a map of india in deep purple running from my hip to halfway down my thigh. I'm never, ever hitting that facking rail in the dark again and im buying some bumpads before i go near it in the daytime.

I'll post a pic of my arse up in a couple of days when the bruise has finished growing

lol, just celetape(sp?) a pillpw to your bum bum next time

[Jaffacakes]

Has anyone heard anything about the odyssey evolver 2 yet?

I phoned up alans asking about the evolver and they said that the evolver 2 should be out in about a month, and should be around the same price as the evolver.

[poopipe]

as far as i know its basically the same as the version1 but lower profile.

I don't think they put cartridge bearings in or anything but I could be mistaken

what the hell do you want brakes for anyway you girl ?

[Sponge]

A question for Mark or anyone in the know...

Burlish Hold Fast frame, much changed from the normal Burlish? I know of the gussets welded onto the chainstays... but other than that? Thicker dropouts than 4mm? Thicker tubing?

and only 20 in the country? Sounds like rather like how Profile once claimed that Tangerine hubs were in very limited quantities in the world..

[Barbra]

as far as i know its basically the same as the version1 but lower profile.

I don't think they put cartridge bearings in or anything but I could be mistaken

what the hell do you want brakes for anyway you girl ?

onnnn the subject of brakes, do you guys think i should start off riding with a brake? or just go for it brakeless?

[Lawnmowerman]

Use a brake

[A!!]

onnnn the subject of brakes, do you guys think i should start off riding with a brake? or just go for it brakeless?

brakeless all the way. I wasn't sure at first, but over time you learn a lot more control by using your body movement not using a brake. So now i have a frame with no brake mounts.

Plus it makes everything a lot more fun for some reason, and plus plus when you learn to throw the bars you don't end up stubbing your fingers or catching a brake lever, which 'aint too nice.

Edited January 29, 2007 by huck_it

[poopipe]

I wouldn't suggest a complete noob ride brakeless but given that you've been riding trials you'll have bike control already so in terms of not dying you'll probably be alright

I wouldnt suggest brakeless if you plan to ride ramps and haven't really done it much before - its nice to be able to scrub a little speed off when you're not entirely comfortable with popping out the top for one thing.

I've never hurt myself properly as a direct result of not having a brake (mostly cos i wear a lid) but where it 'll really get you is landing backwards on an upward slope or the corner of a box (from landing short on a 3-tap or similar) - the bike'll just spin out from under you, there's f**kall you can do about it and 9 times out of 10 it'll drop you on the back of your head.

I say get a brake and try not to use it.

[A!!]

I wouldn't suggest a complete noob ride brakeless but given that you've been riding trials you'll have bike control already so in terms of not dying you'll probably be alright

I wouldnt suggest brakeless if you plan to ride ramps and haven't really done it much before - its nice to be able to scrub a little speed off when you're not entirely comfortable with popping out the top for one thing.

I've never hurt myself properly as a direct result of not having a brake (mostly cos i wear a lid) but where it 'll really get you is landing backwards on an upward slope or the corner of a box (from landing short on a 3-tap or similar) - the bike'll just spin out from under you, there's f**kall you can do about it and 9 times out of 10 it'll drop you on the back of your head.

I say get a brake and try not to use it.

I guess you have a point, actually a fair few.

If you do get a brake, but want to use it as little as possible like poopipe has said, then you can always get an odyssey monolever in small, as they are pretty small so you won't be grabbing it when you don't need to and it is out of the way, but it is always there if you need. When i ran a rear brake for a while, it was the lever i used.

[Barbra]

I guess you have a point, actually a fair few.

If you do get a brake, but want to use it as little as possible like poopipe has said, then you can always get an odyssey monolever in small, as they are pretty small so you won't be grabbing it when you don't need to and it is out of the way, but it is always there if you need. When i ran a rear brake for a while, it was the lever i used.

sounds good, is there anywhere that can show me how to set up a vee properly, or is it U for bmx? Practically they're the same, i've been fixing peoples/my own bike since i was like 9, but i've never been able to setup a good vee/U brake, maybe its because the brakes were always cheap shit ones?

Also....do you guys think i could 360 straight away, i made a stupid arse bet today i can 180 with ease on friends bikes if it helps. I think i can do it if i set my mind to it!

[poopipe]

setting up a u-brake is easy enough but there's a certain art to it - im pretty sure there's a bit about it earlier in this thread and i think there's still a page on the g-sport website (tech section) with some decent tips. mostly its down to keeping the cable line nice and smooth, getting the spring tension right and ensuring everything is nicely lubed.

360 straight away?

the technique is basically to start like a big 180 but spin faster, spin earlier, keep the back end up, keep looking over your shoulder and try not to get off the bike halfway round (which is the hard part).

I just seem pussy out of them these days cos of my poor knee - physio starts in a few days though so I'll have no excuse for being a fag anymore and i'll have to get them off benches n stuff

i recommend practicing in secret then taking the bugger's money...

[Mark W]

A question for Mark or anyone in the know...

Burlish Hold Fast frame, much changed from the normal Burlish? I know of the gussets welded onto the chainstays... but other than that? Thicker dropouts than 4mm? Thicker tubing?

and only 20 in the country? Sounds like rather like how Profile once claimed that Tangerine hubs were in very limited quantities in the world..

Profile are a total bag of toss, and as such anything they say is a load of dick. They'd say anything to sell more over-priced hubs, so it's no surprise they'd say that. With the Burlish Holdfast though, it genuinely is a limited run. Holdfast is just Josh Bedford's clothing company, and so it's just a sorta collaboration from what I can tell. Josh is only on the "Bro" team too, so it's not a 'real' signature frame, so to speak.

It's only available in brakeless form, 20.6" or 21" in midnight blue, beefed up chainstays and I think that's it. Josh is pegless, so the drops are probably still 4mm thick. No info online yet 'cos it's still a totally new frame that's only coming out in March. Your shop should be able to pre-order one though, 'cos I've done that through the main UK Mutiny distro with my local shop already

Having said that, the '07 Sinister is probably what I'd go for if I were you. My Sinister's super nice, and this newer one's lighter, looks nicer and is a bit more refined than mine. Definitely worth a crack!

Barber, d'you mean 3'ing over a jumpbox or on flat? If you mean on flat, I hope you mean you can American 180 hop well, 'cos it's pretty hard to do a 3-hop if you do the non-American hop. It takes a while to get it on flat, so just keep practising. If it's over a jumpbox, they aren't too bad. Just carve into it, lead with your head, and it pretty much just does it's own thing. Go a bit faster than you want to too, I found that helps.

The Odyssey EvoII brakes are already in some stores as far as I know, and they're definitely already on sale in America. Seem to work pretty well from what I'm told, basically just lighter, lower, more refined Evolvers, but with a few extra springs 'n' stuff. If you're after a new brake, probably worth a shot. No sealed bearing pivot hole though, contrary to what Mr.Pipe said earlier. As far as brake setup goes, grease the posts on the frame, and try and run as little spring tension as possible. Basically, the more tension there is, the harder it is to pull 'cos you have to over-come that tension before you start actuating the brake. That's not shit-hot, so just make sure you keep 'em pretty slack. With a greased post and lubed cable, it'll snap back nice and fast anyway. Also, make sure both pads hit simultaneously for a quieter, more responsive brake.

Speaking of - Poopipe, I haven't hit my arse again. I nailed my hip fully into a miniramp the other day doing my first pedal-feeble->fakie with a freecoaster, and getting launched over the bars after a mach 10 roll back down the transition, resulting in a "to hip" fall. Swelled up quite a bit, hurt like a mother, but now it's cool. Other than that, I rolled my ankle a bit a few days ago. Maybe you just lose at the game of rails? If your knees are sketchy, I'd well recommend something like the Bicycle Union knee gaskets. I had major trouble with my knees, in that it hurt to ride, walk, sit, crouch - anything. Now I wear these though, they give a bit of support if you do them up properly (they're basically a partially reinforced tubigrip bandage ), stop your knees getting knocked about, and keep them warm during and after exercise, which helps your body out too.

To whoever asked about my gear ratio before - I ran 24:9 and it was too spinny with a coaster, so I'm up to 25:9 now. 24:9 is pretty much tops with a regular hub though. 1t below what you want for any sub-36t ratio is great for rollbacks if you have a regular hub

[eskimo]

I ride knee pads. It helps soo much if you need to bail and can't roll out of it, you can just slide it out on your knees.

[poopipe]

I ride knee pads. It helps soo much if you need to bail and can't roll out of it, you can just slide it out on your knees.

I've got knee gaskets which are indeed nice for falling off and not bashing & grazing your kneecaps but my main problem is actually a mildly torn cruciate ligament so it's twisting and bending that f**k me up rather than impacts.

oh yeah..

and profile are gay. their stuff is for racing, it will break and it costs too much

Edited January 30, 2007 by poopipe

[Sponge]

Thanks Mark,

There are still so many choices though, from the Mutiny range... I am really unsure on what to get. I've been told about the Captain '07 being too heavy at 6lbs by eskimo and that the headangle on it doesnt make it responsive..?

2006 Eden (Light green)

2007 Captain (Pink or Raw)

2007 Sinister (Raw)

2007 Sinister-Shadow Conspiracy

2007 Burlish Hold Fast

2007 Burlish (Raw)

2007 Nocturnal (Raw)

^The exact choices incl. colour I'd like (ones in bold are more preferable). At this stage, I'm not too sure on exactly what. And when I do come to make the choice, it's gotta be 100% clear. I can see slight pros and cons of each frame, but seriously, opinions on geometry? I'm of course going for a 20.5 tt, but it's the HA that's bugging me on these frames as I'm not too clear on what I'm meant to be looking for in terms of a 'decent' HA. Remember I'm riding street mostly, but park and very small Dirt thrown in.

I see on the Captain that it's got a wishbone split at the BB area, which most of the other Mutiny frames don't... is this a plus for street?

Lastly, Mark, what TT was your '06 Sinister and your new Burlish Hold Fast? Just out of curiousity.

EDIT: Yet another question, (this is like an exam )

What's the Mutiny-Shadow Cons. deal? And by 'one time production' what exactly does it mean on the limited colour parts? I'm getting confused by some people insisting on it being only one of each being made, and others stating that its in larger but limited quantities. I'm guessing the second of the two?

Edited January 30, 2007 by Sponge

[Mark W]

It's a limited edition run of products from the collaboration between Shadow and Mutiny, similar to the Holdfast Burlish My Sinister's 21", and the Burlish is going to be 21". However, the Burlish has a slacker head-angle, so it'll feel more like a 20.75-20.8" toptube, which I don't really mind too much. As a rough guide, a "decent" head-angle would be 74.5° or 75°. Both will be fine, I think only the Nocturnal has the 75. Like I said though, you may as well go for a 20.5" (or nearest...) Sinister. They're really nice frames, strong, light, look good and feel nicely balanced. Well worth getting The Eden would be a pretty bad choice for you, by the way, as they only come in 21.25", which is pretty frickin' long.

I don't really get what you mean about the wishbone on the Captain - the Sinister, Eden and Captain all have the same wishbone idea, it's just the Burlish (and possibly Nocturnal, can't remember...) which doesn't, purely for weight. Wishbones are theoretically stiffer, but there's not a great deal in it.

[Sponge]

It's a limited edition run of products from the collaboration between Shadow and Mutiny, similar to the Holdfast Burlish My Sinister's 21", and the Burlish is going to be 21". However, the Burlish has a slacker head-angle, so it'll feel more like a 20.75-20.8" toptube, which I don't really mind too much. As a rough guide, a "decent" head-angle would be 74.5° or 75°. Both will be fine, I think only the Nocturnal has the 75. Like I said though, you may as well go for a 20.5" (or nearest...) Sinister. They're really nice frames, strong, light, look good and feel nicely balanced. Well worth getting The Eden would be a pretty bad choice for you, by the way, as they only come in 21.25", which is pretty frickin' long.

I don't really get what you mean about the wishbone on the Captain - the Sinister, Eden and Captain all have the same wishbone idea, it's just the Burlish (and possibly Nocturnal, can't remember...) which doesn't, purely for weight. Wishbones are theoretically stiffer, but there's not a great deal in it.

Cheers yet again!

I got off the phone with Half-Pipe and Seventies Distribution, and from what they say, I have a pretty decent idea about the frames I should genuinely be looking at. I think I'll steer clear of the Burlish Hold Fast seeing as it's pretty pre-ordered to nothingness. I liked the 2006 Eden as it was available in smaller sizes and in a hot green colour. But now, I think I'll only bother with:

2007 Captain 20.5 (Raw or pink, I can't decide)

2007 Sinister 20.6

2007 Sinister-Shadow 20.6 (if it's even available?)

The Nocturnal seems a bit overkill for a rider like me, as I'm not a guilty frame denter/crusher in any wheeled sport.

I'll need to study and compare the geos and other facts of the Sinister and Captain frames before making a decision. As for right now, it's an email to Gaz@MutinyBikes. PLAN.

[Mark W]

I wouldn't stress about it all so much. No-one really runs 74° head angles any more, at all. They really don't feel that great. The Sinister on the other hand is a super nice frame, that comes in some decent colours, feels great to ride, etc. Just go for it!

[Sponge]

Sinister it is then... (20.6)

Now I just have to decide on the colour...

If the Shadow version is not available anymore (I hear its very limited!) then I'll stick with Raw.

[Mark W]

I'd go for the raw anyway, but that's just 'cos I'm not really into Shadow, or anything they do...

[A!!]

Sinister it is then... (20.6)

Now I just have to decide on the colour...

If the Shadow version is not available anymore (I hear its very limited!) then I'll stick with Raw.

Thats the way to do it, just go with your instinct, and like Mark has said try not to get too worked up about it all

Back on the coaster side of things (Mark ). Did you have to adjust in anyway when you started doing half cabs and fakie spins when you got your coaster on.

The reason i asked is because i have just put my new sprocket on and split the chain ready for the new backwheel (with the geisha), so i decided to have a little play on it with no chain to see what it feels like. So when i started doing half cabs, i noticed i 'slap' the pedals a bit when i spin, which 'aint going to work with no chain on, as i'm sure you can see whats going to happen. And when i have the coaster on i guess it will be similar, especially if i run it quite slack.

So basically did you have to change your technique for certain stuff when you got the coaster on?

[Mark W]

Sort of... I never really used pedal pressure for half-cabs anyway so for them it wasn't so bad, but full cabs were harder. Whereas before I could just stand on the pedals and do them, you can't really do that on a freecoaster (well, you can, but what'd be the point ). You really do just have to do a 3-hop going backwards. Almost got them properly yesterday, hopefully gonna get 'em tonight back out at SouthyB. Anyway, yeah, you do adapt your technique in general when you get a coaster, but you'll get used to it pretty fast. All I'd say is when/if you get one, learn stuff properly. I did "lazy" half-cabs where I'd sorta carve into it a bit first, then hop and just keep spinning, but that sends you off line. If you do a "real" hop and just boost it, then twist it in the air, you get more height and distance, but you stay in line so if you're doing anything precise you won't die.

[Barbra]

i never really specified how i was going to 360, so the easiest way, like the exiting of a bank or something...

where can i buy animal products from? has to be from a online store thats in the uk