Houseface Posted May 30, 2006 Report Share Posted May 30, 2006 hey,can anybody tell me what size spokes i will need for a wtp 2006 pi cassette hub (coming from winstanleys)and also a proper cassette hub steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 (edited) having been reliably informed that powerbites will go into a mid BB I now want to know if powerbites will go into a (stinking, dirty, weak as piss ) euro BB shell so, can I put my powerbites in a euro BB frame ?any recommendations on a good quality BB if it will work ?edit : to answer my own questionyes, it can be done Edited June 1, 2006 by poopipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 It can indeed, but the bearings for a 22mm spindle crankset in a Euro BB are f**king tiny Any BB will do though, they're pretty much all the same.To the guy asking about spokes - which rim? Equally, if you ask for spokes from Alans, then put the wheel-build you want in the Comments box, they usually sort out the correct spokes for you. Just put the rim, hub, 36/48H and 3X/4X, and they'll be fine, usually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbra Posted June 10, 2006 Report Share Posted June 10, 2006 half decent second hand bmx for £100is it do'able? i don't have much money, so once ive sold my frame and got my zip i'll have about 100 - 150 squids left to buy a bmx with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Clark Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Federal Division frameS&M Pitchfork forksWTP Royal cranksPrimo pedalsProfile Blackjack chainringMongoose finishing parts.I got that for £50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted June 14, 2006 Report Share Posted June 14, 2006 Federal Division frameS&M Pitchfork forksWTP Royal cranksPrimo pedalsProfile Blackjack chainringMongoose finishing parts.I got that for £50.good deal how's the division holding up? chainstays and droputs are a major concern for me cos I'm not too tidy when grinding.You can pick up a new division frame for not much over £100. I've got to lower my bmx frame price range (due to the t-pro getting injured) so I'm quite interested in hearing about those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Clark Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 Whole things holding up nicely, no problems at all, I just fancy a change because the paint is shagged and the frame is rusty as hell on mine, so I'm looking to buy another frame. Whole thing feels strong as f**k though, I've landed on my dropouts loads and nothings happened.The Federal deals going on at the moment are amazing, my mate picked up a Hamilton for £110 and its awesome, I'd recommend cashing in before they all get sold out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 Tyres... any recommendations for a pair of tyres for general ramp/street riding? I don't want a tractor tyre on the front, so probably no bigger than 2.0 front and rear. And no pink ones either. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 Tyres... any recommendations for a pair of tyres for general ramp/street riding? I don't want a tractor tyre on the front, so probably no bigger than 2.0 front and rear. And no pink ones either. Thanks!you can get the gusset pimp (pink) in black I got some last week. about £13 a pop, will take 100psi happily, tread goes all the way round and they're just as rolly&grippy as the pink ones. I got em in 2.1 but they had them in 1.95. it was at billys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 Thanks, I'll have a think. I was contemplating the Primo V-Monster, but then I remembered Bongo or someone raving about the Odyssey Path... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawnmowerman Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 Try maxxis m-treads. Smooth as f**k and very grippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narrowbars Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 What are the best heatsink brake pads?Blue/green or Red?On a chrome rim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Clark Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 Red were pretty awesome for me, chrome absolutely eats the pads though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RicH_87 Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 i want to cut an inch or so off my steerer but its got internal threads for the top cap...they look like they go down further than where i want to cut, but it could be tight.shall i just go for it? if it goes tits up i could just put a startnut in there right and use a regular top cap?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Thanks, I'll have a think. I was contemplating the Primo V-Monster, but then I remembered Bongo or someone raving about the Odyssey Path... On the front, V-Monsters are pretty good. Mine lasted for a hell of a long time, and was just nice, light and...well, good, really. On the rear, they're really not great. They pinch incredibly easily, the sidewalls are so thin that they just tear up as soon as you grind or hang-up on a wall or ledge or whatever on street, and they just don't last that long.I know you said you don't want over a 2.0" tyre up front, but maybe consider the Ruben tyres, by Fly? They come in 2.1 and 1.9 now, and they're amazingly good tyres. They absorb impacts super well, have this weird silk linery thing to help stop pinch flats, they've got good sidewalls (the rear has a "grind line" that stops the main wall coming into contact with anything if you grind), they're super grippy and they're not heavy either. I'd really recommend them, which is largely why they're the only BMX tyre I've ever bought twice I used to run a 2.1 V-Monster up front and a Path 1.85 on the rear and it was a pretty nice setup. My brother's now got my old Path and it's holding up pretty well for him too. They're on many a pro bike, so they're obviously not shit, but I just prefer the feel of my Rubens... i want to cut an inch or so off my steerer but its got internal threads for the top cap...they look like they go down further than where i want to cut, but it could be tight.shall i just go for it? if it goes tits up i could just put a startnut in there right and use a regular top cap?? You could probably fire a starnut in there, or you could just run a head-lock. Just try and measure it up so you can see if you're going to cut the threads or not. If you want to make sure you've still got some left, just put a few thin spacers above the stem so your top-cap isn't resting fully on top of the stem? Still have a low front and you'll take some steerer off, but you'll have kept the awesomeness of the welded in star-nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 erm, brake lever. I've got a dirt harry atm but it's too long and keeps cutting my knuckles. I tried moving it down past the bend but I couldn't bend the lever out enough to make it pull enough cable to stop me before it hits the bars (well, I got frightened in case it broke). I guess I'd need either either a pre-bent (a lot) 2 finger jobby or a single finger one that sticks out a lot. Preferably with holes for 2 cables cos I want to start running a dual cable setup but don't want a gyro. any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RicH_87 Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 odyssey monolever for sure. I think mark will agree too. I had a dirty harry too, and it was a mint lever if you're up for using two fingers, but i just prefer one finger so was lucky to bag luke's old small monolever.i also have the medium version on my spare bike and both are just as good as each other.i haven't tried the trigger version so i can't comment, looks like it would be a bit weird though.so yeh, monolever in small or medium from me.-----------------just to update on my post^^ i cut my steerer today (it was FATter than i expected so had to get out the big boy tools), but yeh, ended up using a starnut and top cap combination and it's ace, much better than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 The Ody fork's welded in nut and top-cap pwn in fairness. Just takes a 6mm allen key to do up, which is nice.I think I'd go for the small Monolever again. The medium was just a little too long for me, whereas if I should for some reason wish to run 2 fingers I'd be able to, but it's small enough to run as a single-finger lever. Way better than the Goldfinger too, just 'cos you get more leverage with the Ody by far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 I went for the odyssey m2 trigger in the end (dual cable version of the monolever) it's quite sticky-outy looking so I'm hoping I'll be able to run it on/past the bend without taking a big spanner to it.my dreams of a dual cable setup will soon be realised . mwaahahaahaa!i'll edit when it turns up since nobody knows about the trigger ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 You probably wouldn't be able to bend the trigger that easily, simply 'cos it's so long but so kinked as well. There's no real place to do it without building a huge stress point... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 (edited) pretty hacked off now. The odyssey m2 dual cable lever is not in fact a dual cable lever. It's a normal lever with an adaptor that lets you run a shit version of an upper gyro cable into your gyro.I'm about to embark on the following - given that I've forked out too much on this to quit nowget a lever (any lever - m2 for £17)get a bit of cable (old linear slic - free)get a primo pervert (£8 - £10)get 2 cables (linear slic £8 each)get a london mod (£5 - if you need one)run them in that order down to your brake and voila, a dual cable setup for a mere £45 ( including postage , plus the brake of course so we'll call it £75 cos i've got an evolver) Edited July 6, 2006 by poopipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RicH_87 Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 do all bmx bars have the same clamp size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopipe Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 do all bmx bars have the same clamp size?so far yes. every single pair of bars I've used since my raleigh burner have had 7/8th inch tubing for the clamps, that includes all bmx and trials bikeshowever - i'd still make absolutely certain before forking out for new ones. which ones are you looking at? I'm thinking new bars cos mine are too narrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawnmowerman Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 Buy my premium bars off me poopipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kells Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 Which chain splitters are good for bmx chains? I think this might have already been said in here but i had a search and couldn't find anything.I have a park tool one but its too small for my chain to fit in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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