First grinding rim(light one)

[basstrials]

Hi everyone,i am about to make my first grinding on my back rim,so i would like to make sure that everything would be good with the procedure.Here it's what i know about:

1.To use a brand new disk but what thickness?I would like light grind.

2.Metal cutting or stone one for?

3.Is better to have grinder with adjustable speed or not?If it has what speed have to be,slow or faster?

4.Do i need to clean with acetone after the grinding or does not have to?

And last question is:If i am using one brand pads after grinding and deciding to have different ones do i have to grind again or just clean surfaces with IPA or acetone?

Thank you for you time and answers.Every tips would be appreciated.

[Ali C]

With a new disc it doesn’t really matter the thickness as they’ll both have a sharp corner but a thinner one will keep its edge better for future grinds.

both steel or stone will work but I find a steel one gives a slightly more consistent light grind.

I’ve never used an adjustable speed grinder, a cheap one that goes fast will be fine.

No, you’re uncovering fresh new metal so it’s ready to go.

No, if the grind is still fresh and working well then you won’t need to redo it for different pads.

 

[basstrials]

Thank you,Ali C.Very comprehensive answer.It would help me with the details which i did not know.I also did watch your video how to grind a rim and it is helpful as well.

Thank you very much once again.

[basstrials]

Thnaks to Ali C advices and videos how to do this i did grind my rim and it was not so hard as i thought at the beginning.I did use 1.6mm metal cutting disk at maybe 25 to 30 degrees.The Echo rim has hard aluminium (it is seems) because a very gentle pressure couse very little surface "damage".Comparing it with another rim of mine (Trials bike shop did grind for me)it is seems that my grind is little rougher.I am glad of but other problem poped up.I did turn the bike upside down and master cylinder stops working properly,the piston moves forward to the rim and not going back when the lever been released.I suspect that it is has an air inside.The lever itself is Echo TR one and i think would be good idea to change it with Trailtech one(short reach).

Anyone have tried this combo: Trialtech lever  and Magura cylinders?

Also this lever has some knob(maybe is contact point) and what direction this one has to be moved to get proper brake bleeding?

I guess that LBS would use Magura mineral oil for.

Thank you.

Edited October 22 by basstrials

[La Bourde]

The Echo lever are prone to leakages.

Look at the side of the pistons of the caliper: if some deep scratches are present, the calipers are done (I guess it occurs when some sand or other abrasive stuff stick there)

There is then so much friction that the pistons don't come back.

 

I had Clean, Race line, Hashtagg lever but never used the trialtech one. 

Knowing the quality of their products and the feedback of Rich from RPM, I guess they are really good.

If you don't want to spent that much, a good old magura lever from the 2005 serie, with the edges cut off (see Ali C videos again, thx to him and tartybikes) does the job really well.

Edited October 22 by La Bourde

[basstrials]

Thank you,La Bourde.I already did buy one so it is time to put it on.

Edited October 24 by basstrials

[basstrials]

La Bourde,the old TR lever was leaking like you did say.This Trialtech lever is very solid and convenient for short fingers person like me.I can not tested the bike yet because i have some problem with my ankle.

[La Bourde]

Get well soon!