Chain tension on horizontal dropouts

[arw_86]

Hi.

I've purchased a used Marino version of inspired arcade.  Steel frame with horizontal dropouts.  I've never had horizontal dropouts before and have a few questions regarding the chain tension.

1) how tight should the chain be?

2) is it normal that depending on where the cranks are in the rotation the chain is different tensions.  Is something bent or out of line?

3) the wheel stops spinning pretty quickly when I lift the rear end and spin the cranks a few times.  (May be a little disc rub) Is this due to friction in the Freewheel (mounted on hub)?  Or is this another sign of chain being too tight?

Thanks for any help.  Im just new to this set up style and it's getting in my head a little.  I want full confidence in my ride otherwise I won't ride it well at all.

Thanks, Adam.

[Daan]

11 hours ago, arw_86 said:

1) how tight should the chain be?

2) is it normal that depending on where the cranks are in the rotation the chain is different tensions.  Is something bent or out of line?

3) the wheel stops spinning pretty quickly when I lift the rear end and spin the cranks a few times.  (May be a little disc rub) Is this due to friction in the Freewheel (mounted on hub)?  Or is this another sign of chain being too tight?

1) Pressing with your finger, you should be able to move it up and down a centimeter or so.

2) Yes this is normal, chain rings and sprockets are never perfectly round or 100% aligned to the center. So be sure to have that cm movement in the tightest spot.

3) This could definitely mean the chain is too tight, as a very tight chain will put a lot of force on your freehub, and a lot of wear too. It of course can also mean the disc is rubbing a lot, or your bearings are beat.

For an illustrated example, see https://youtu.be/88tDcVvS7mU?t=252

Tighten the wheel nuts down very hard to prevent slipping (especially if the frame doesn't have any chain tugs to keep the wheel in position).

Depending on the way the disc caliper is mounted and the wheel's fore-aft position, you may also need to play around with thin washers underneath the caliper to get the vertical alignment perfect.

Good luck!

[La Bourde]

15 hours ago, Daan said:

1) Pressing with your finger, you should be able to move it up and down a centimeter or so.

2) Yes this is normal, chain rings and sprockets are never perfectly round or 100% aligned to the center. So be sure to have that cm movement in the tightest spot.

3) This could definitely mean the chain is too tight, as a very tight chain will put a lot of force on your freehub, and a lot of wear too. It of course can also mean the disc is rubbing a lot, or your bearings are beat.

For an illustrated example, see https://youtu.be/88tDcVvS7mU?t=252

Tighten the wheel nuts down very hard to prevent slipping (especially if the frame doesn't have any chain tugs to keep the wheel in position).

Depending on the way the disc caliper is mounted and the wheel's fore-aft position, you may also need to play around with thin washers underneath the caliper to get the vertical alignment perfect.

Good luck!

Regarding 2):

Screwed-on freewheel or sprocket imply per design a misalignment. This is why splined freewheel of sprocket are superior (in theory at least).

The same issue is present with bottom bracket.

But if the difference in chain tension is small, it is fine.

 

Regarding 3):

What freewheel are you using? Those with a lot of engagement points (120 or more) have a lot of drag, due to stronger springs.

They need to be broken in too.

Edited March 10, 2022 by La Bourde

[arw_86]

On 3/10/2022 at 3:48 PM, La Bourde said:

Regarding 2):

Screwed-on freewheel or sprocket imply per design a misalignment. This is why splined freewheel of sprocket are superior (in theory at least).

The same issue is present with bottom bracket.

But if the difference in chain tension is small, it is fine.

 

Regarding 3):

What freewheel are you using? Those with a lot of engagement points (120 or more) have a lot of drag, due to stronger springs.

They need to be broken in too.

It's a comas.  Don't think it has that many engagement points but not sure on exact model.

I've only ever ridden freehubs.  So Freewheels are alien to me.  If I walk the bike, the pedals will move with the roll for a bit and then eventually they will stop and you'll here the clicks of the Freewheel.  Then they'll start moving around again.  Definitely a big difference in chain tightness at different spots too so I'm thinking something is out of line.  How do I know if one is screw on or splined without taking anything aparts?   I'm gonna work on my pads and see if that's aiding the drag too.

Thanks for the help

[arw_86]

On 3/10/2022 at 12:05 AM, Daan said:

1) Pressing with your finger, you should be able to move it up and down a centimeter or so.

2) Yes this is normal, chain rings and sprockets are never perfectly round or 100% aligned to the center. So be sure to have that cm movement in the tightest spot.

3) This could definitely mean the chain is too tight, as a very tight chain will put a lot of force on your freehub, and a lot of wear too. It of course can also mean the disc is rubbing a lot, or your bearings are beat.

For an illustrated example, see https://youtu.be/88tDcVvS7mU?t=252

Tighten the wheel nuts down very hard to prevent slipping (especially if the frame doesn't have any chain tugs to keep the wheel in position).

Depending on the way the disc caliper is mounted and the wheel's fore-aft position, you may also need to play around with thin washers underneath the caliper to get the vertical alignment perfect.

Good luck!

Legend. Thanks for the time.

Ps - I replied way before this but just noticed it's not in the thread.  Not sure why.  But anyway, many thanks.

 

[MaderaMark]

I have been trying to ease my head about this tight/loss of chain, and to minimize the slack DIY was the only way for me, and also saved me some chains. I have made different types of these and this is my current one.

[MaderaMark]

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