Which levers for Shigura?

[Daan]

Magura hose has a slightly larger internal diameter than Shimano BH-90 hose (which is what comes stock on Saint, Zee, XT, etc), but the same as BH-59 hose (stock on cheaper or road/touring brakes). This means that with a Magura hose, you use either the Magura barb, or the BH-59 barb, and a Shimano BH-90 or BH-59 olive (these are the same). The BH-90 barb will be slightly too thin for the Magura hose, making for a less than perfect fit, and there's a chance you will need to tighten the compression nut a bit too much or get leaks.

[freetrials661]

4 hours ago, Daan said:

Magura hose has a slightly larger internal diameter than Shimano BH-90 hose (which is what comes stock on Saint, Zee, XT, etc), but the same as BH-59 hose (stock on cheaper or road/touring brakes). This means that with a Magura hose, you use either the Magura barb, or the BH-59 barb, and a Shimano BH-90 or BH-59 olive (these are the same). The BH-90 barb will be slightly too thin for the Magura hose, making for a less than perfect fit, and there's a chance you will need to tighten the compression nut a bit too much or get leaks.

This is super informative. Thanks! 

[laurent]

So no clue to solve my problem ? Anyone had this issue and solves it ?

[Private Repress]

10 hours ago, laurent said:

So no clue to solve my problem ? Anyone had this issue and solves it ?

To remove excess air in the system try the following. (This assumes you’ve already gone through the process of flushing the system through with fresh brake fluid)

1. Dismantle a bleed syringe, use the section that holds brake fluid and sit it firmly in the lever having removed the grub screw. You want to ensure that the lever is positioned so that the grub screw hole sits level. The syringe should therefore hold itself upright. At this stage I also tend to use a spanner head to repeatedly tap the brake hose starting at the calliper end working all the way up to the lever, this helps any trapped air work it’s way up through the brake line towards the lever.

2. Add some fresh brake fluid to the syringe, I tend to fill it about a quarter full.

3. Begin to pull and release the lever fully, slowly to begin with - hopefully you will see clusters of micro bubbles releasing into the fluid. Keep doing this for around 30-40 pulls.

4. After this, for the same amount, pull the brake lever fully closed rapidly, then allow release it so that it flicks back into the released position. After this I tend to then to repeat step 3, returning to slow pulls and releases.

5. Remove the syringe - be sure to have a container immediately below to catch the fluid that will leak out of the syringe. 

6. Ensure the oil level is brimming at the top before replacing the grub screw. You can add a few drops of fluid if needed.

 

If all is well, you should have removed all/most air from the brake system. A good way to test this is use the brake and get it warmed up. If the bite point starts to fluctuate, then you still have air in the system. If so, repeat the steps above. If after two or three cycles this isn’t solving the issue, It suggests air is getting in some how, which would be an indication that the piston seals are defective or there’s a problem with the hose/connections. 
 

I hope this helps 

Edited January 19, 2022 by Private Repress
Typo

[ziansur]

I used Shimano, would have used Magura if I just went off what looked a cooler colour and to try something different but spent a lot of time reading through multiple forums about what works best with what ect and seems Shimano is the better option. Sure if I put Royal Blood in though I wouldn't notice any difference. I don't know if it's the larger internal diameter of the Magura hoses or the fact it's an XTR lever but the brakes defintely feel a bit less stiff to pull than a full SLX setup. Well happy with them though and that's just with the stock pads that come with the MT5, nit even MT7 race or even better Trickstuff pads and they are still by miles the most powerful brake I have ever used and probably the quietest too.