Chain Tensioner

[Richie612]

Hello guys I'm wondering if the chain tensioner on the Inspired Fourplay is adjustable?

It's a 2020 Fourplay Pro and the chain has stretched slightly, not enough to warrant removing a link but definitely a bit wobbly compared to when it was new.

Can the trialtech chain tensioner be adjusted to remove the chain play? It's the one with 2 jockey wheels.

Many thanks 

Rich 

[ben_travis]

You'll be better putting a picture up dude so we can see what you're working with. With the standard tensioner, the tension is adjustable, however its lateral position along the chainstay isn't.

If you were to get a custom mount made you could move the position but it sounds to me like your tension is just out.

Also...this might help - https://www.inspiredbicycles.com/images/custom/downloads/Inspired Fourplay Tensioner Instructions.pdf

Edited April 12, 2021 by ben_travis

[Richie612]

46 minutes ago, ben_travis said:

You'll be better putting a picture up dude so we can see what you're working with. With the standard tensioner, the tension is adjustable, however its lateral position along the chainstay isn't.

If you were to get a custom mount made you could move the position but it sounds to me like your tension is just out.

Also...this might help - https://www.inspiredbicycles.com/images/custom/downloads/Inspired Fourplay Tensioner Instructions.pdf

Here we go Ben

 

[Swoofty]

Drop the chain off the second jockey wheel (the one farther from the rear axle). Loosen the pinch bolt that holds the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner farther back (clockwise in the photo above) to increase tension. Re-tighten the pinch bolt. Put the chain back on the jockey wheel. Done.

[Mark W]

It looks like you may be able to get a link out of that. The tensioner will be up in line with the chainstay more, like so:

It does make popping the chain on and off a little trickier because the chain itself is just tighter in the system, but it should feel a bit better overall.

[Richie612]

7 hours ago, Mark W said:

It looks like you may be able to get a link out of that. The tensioner will be up in line with the chainstay more, like so:

It does make popping the chain on and off a little trickier because the chain itself is just tighter in the system, but it should feel a bit better overall.

Any recommendations on a decent chain tool for removing links and reconnecting?

By the way that frame colour should have a sunglasses warning haha.

Rich 

[Mark W]

Most chain tools should be up to it, but I've generally had success with the IceToolz and Cyclo ones. I've got a BBB Nautilus at the moment which has handled everything, would put a recommendation in for that one as well. It's got the adjustable boss/stopper/whateverit'scalled that the chain butts up against, so it covers most chains from skinnier MTB chains up to 1/8" ones. Means that the 3/32" chain you've got on there will be no problem: 

 

[Richie612]

1 hour ago, Mark W said:

Most chain tools should be up to it, but I've generally had success with the IceToolz and Cyclo ones. I've got a BBB Nautilus at the moment which has handled everything, would put a recommendation in for that one as well. It's got the adjustable boss/stopper/whateverit'scalled that the chain butts up against, so it covers most chains from skinnier MTB chains up to 1/8" ones. Means that the 3/32" chain you've got on there will be no problem: 

 

Thanks Mark. Coming from a MTB background all this is new to me and all the help is much appreciated. Never had to remove a link before or snapped a chain which is more luck than anything I guess!

The KMC chains seem to have what looks like mushroom pins holding the links together, will they pop out fine using the tool?

Failing that I'll just replace the chain but would still need to shorten it out of the box won't I.

The current chain has been off once and been using it for about a month after the non-reuasble quick link was re-used.

Rich 

[Richie612]

22 hours ago, Swoofty said:

Drop the chain off the second jockey wheel (the one farther from the rear axle). Loosen the pinch bolt that holds the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner farther back (clockwise in the photo above) to increase tension. Re-tighten the pinch bolt. Put the chain back on the jockey wheel. Done.

I'll try this tomorrow after work. As I'm a noob to these tensioners, which is the pinch bolt you are referring to please.

Also it's recommended not to use a quick link for trials for obvious reasons so by removing the quick link it will in turn make the chain tighter.

It's a KMC chain at present, if using a quick link is frowned upon then why are the Inspired bikes sent out to customers with the quick link attached . 

Rich 

[Swoofty]

I was appalled to find a quick link on my Hex too. I got rid of it pronto! The pinch bolt is highlighted in the photo below. It's underneath the bike, but not one of the 2 bolts that hold the plastic tensioner part to the chainstay.  If you want the absolute best chain tool available, get yourself a Rohloff Revolver 3 tool. It has the ability to re-rivet the chain pins for the best security possible, but it's pricey.  Another trick for the tensioner is to put 10t jockey wheels on instead of the 11t that come on it so you can drop a link and/or straighten the chain a little bit more. 

[Mark W]

14 hours ago, Richie612 said:

Thanks Mark. Coming from a MTB background all this is new to me and all the help is much appreciated. Never had to remove a link before or snapped a chain which is more luck than anything I guess!

The KMC chains seem to have what looks like mushroom pins holding the links together, will they pop out fine using the tool?

Yep, they'll be fine. I've used that chain tool on my own Z1eHX chain and it's been fine.

Regarding the pinch bolt, the link that Ben posted earlier on is for the manual for the tensioner. There are photos detailing the process here.

[Richie612]

7 hours ago, Swoofty said:

I was appalled to find a quick link on my Hex too. I got rid of it pronto! The pinch bolt is highlighted in the photo below. It's underneath the bike, but not one of the 2 bolts that hold the plastic tensioner part to the chainstay.  If you want the absolute best chain tool available, get yourself a Rohloff Revolver 3 tool. It has the ability to re-rivet the chain pins for the best security possible, but it's pricey.  Another trick for the tensioner is to put 10t jockey wheels on instead of the 11t that come on it so you can drop a link and/or straighten the chain a little bit more. 

Thank you for the help and advice on the chain tool. I've ordered a bbb nautilus chain tool, that should be fine for now.

Can't wait for it to arrive as having that quick link does play a bit on my mind and causes me to not commit as much through fear of it snapping.

Rich 

[Richie612]

On 4/13/2021 at 9:13 AM, Mark W said:

It looks like you may be able to get a link out of that. The tensioner will be up in line with the chainstay more, like so:

It does make popping the chain on and off a little trickier because the chain itself is just tighter in the system, but it should feel a bit better overall.

Took a link out of the chain and now the tensioner sits like this, very tight. It does feel a lot better with very little play but would having the tensioner like this cause any issues?

P.s it's just clearing the Chainstay

Rich 

[Swoofty]

That's pretty much how it's supposed to be.

[AdamR28]

^^ Agreed. This is our preferred way to set them up, and how we used to do it, until a bunch of customers sent feedback that their chain was 'too short'. So we added a link, figuring it was easier to take one out than add one in.

I would always run my own bike with the chain as short as possible, and I'd never use a quick link, but in these circumstances you have to think about the end user and cater for those with less experience (can use it as it comes, no tools required), but allow for tinkering for the more seasoned rider (take the quick link out and join the chain with a tool).

 

 

[Mark W]

Yep, as above, that's how I'd run my setup if I wasn't an Arcade fanboy  

[Richie612]

3 hours ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:

^^ Agreed. This is our preferred way to set them up, and how we used to do it, until a bunch of customers sent feedback that their chain was 'too short'. So we added a link, figuring it was easier to take one out than add one in.

I would always run my own bike with the chain as short as possible, and I'd never use a quick link, but in these circumstances you have to think about the end user and cater for those with less experience (can use it as it comes, no tools required), but allow for tinkering for the more seasoned rider (take the quick link out and join the chain with a tool).

 

 

Thanks guys, you've put my mind at ease now with your comments.

It was a bit of a pig to get the chain back on but managed to figure it out by running the chain through the tensioner (which now doesn't add hardly any tension at all) then over the front sprocket and use the torque of the cranks to seat the chain.

Rich