marg26 Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 Not sure what this move is called, but the attached image illustrates. The 'a' images show bike position before the move, 'b' shows position after the move. The move is static, not from rolling. So I can do versions 1 & 2 from rolling, but not 3, but I'm more interested in tips for performing these moves from a static position. Every so often I attempt version 2 but it always seems like my efforts are way off, lots of exertion to barely even make it happen. I don't usually do version 1 static, but it just happened that way the other day, and discovered it wasn't a one off, and it wasn't until then this clicked together as 3 versions of the same thing. So with the 1st, easiest version, I believe I'm using a pivoting of the bike and myself to assist bringing the rear wheel up onto the obstacle previously occupied by the front wheel. But with the 2nd version pivoting isn't going to help that much, and definitely won't on the 3rd version. Maybe I can almost picture it... Lean forward, jump up, tall, arms pull bike with me? Or is it more, lean forward, crouched, push arms bike forward? Do you have any tips or cues for what I need to be doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 Front brake on, back brake off. Push down on the front pedal to 1) jump up and 2) propel forwards. You'll feel the forks flex and the drivetrain load up - use this like elastic to help. Each of those three variations will need a different body position, but weight starts further forward than you'd think, it's an explosive move rather than one that uses body momentum. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Morris Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Here's how I did it when I was learning. I'm going to assume you're right-footed. Don't start with a really low wall or a kerb - 6 bricks high will be easier than 3 bricks high because you'll be in a more natural upright position. Choose a wide wall with a long flat top so there's no need for accuracy. Roll up to the wall at 90-degrees and put your brakes on. Slowly and calmly hop yourself into position. As per usual your right foot should be forward and your left foot should be back. The closer you get to the wall at this stage, the easier the wheel-swap will be as there's less distance for the rear wheel to travel. Your left foot and bottom bracket should be nice and close to the wall. Lean your head, neck and shoulders forwards over the bars, compressing your body downwards into the tyres. Think happy thoughts, like Robin Williams in Hook. Snap and bounce back up again, lifting up with your feet, ankles, legs and arms. As you're lifting, twist to the left mid-air to make sure you land on top of the wall at a nice 90-degree angle. Give it everything you've got. 100% effort and loads of brute force can often get you up despite poor technique. Lift nice and high keeping your arms up, keep the back brake on and you should end up in your desired position (3b). Like Adam says, greater results can be achieved by releasing the back brake and pushing down on the pedals. Momentum will help you get even higher once you've got the basics in place. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 (edited) Would you say there's any prerequisites for success with this? For example perhaps I should be able to rear-hop up the same height already? I can barely rear-hop onto a foot high ledge. I'm trying not to come across as all whingey about how hard it all is... Think this is one of those moves I want to be able to do, but not quite ready to put all the hard work into learning it just yet! Took at least six months before I put any commitment into learning to rear wheel hop, and a year later, well, I can do it, but not any height to be able to hop up stuff yet, nor distance either, my control/balance/stability needs more work. So lots of skinnies - along the tops of walls, width varying from 30cm down to 10cm. Trackstand no brakes front wheel pressed to wall at 90-dgrees. Rear-hops off things - working toward less width more height, two ways - for less width find less height, and for more height find more width, to limit risk to one dimension. Probably ~30cm width is narrowest and 45cm highest. Edited April 9, 2020 by marg26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Morris Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 There’s no set order for learning trials; I’ve seen riders who go really big on tyre taps and 360s but can hardly track stand or do a controlled backhop. I also feel that getting up something is usually a lot safer than drops or gaps, so just find a wall 6 or 7 bricks high, put your front wheel on it and LIFT as if your life depended on it. Good luck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 OTOH, if I'm attempting to get up something I like to know I won't have a problem getting off it. Thanks for posting :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted August 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 Thought I got move 3 today, finally, but reading the described techniques above, I did it differently. Basically I did it as shown in the video below, but started with the front wheel on a ledge (rather than on the ground as in the video). The front may have lifted slightly off the ledge (2 pallets), got it cleanly 2nd go, but struggled to repeat. Just curious if any thoughts on doing it this way rather than the techniques described above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted August 26, 2021 Report Share Posted August 26, 2021 On 08/04/2020 at 10:40 PM, Stephen Morris said: Just to add to this, similar to lots of trials moves, the trick is to allow the bike to move to where you want it to go. If you only explode upwards the height the bike will get will be limited. What you need to do is use that inital explosion to initiate the move but you then use your whole body to allow the bike to continue its upward motion and by throwing the bike up and in front of you, the rear wheel will get to where you want it to be even if your head and torso haven't actually risen by that much. Youtube have really raped the quality of this but this at 2:00 gives you an idea of what I'm talking about (I'm sure there are better examples out there!)- if you watch my torso it starts and ends in virtually the same place but the bike is forced up onto the rail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaderaMark Posted August 27, 2021 Report Share Posted August 27, 2021 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted August 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2021 (edited) Yes I've watched that video (and others) a few times now.... then went out and did that stuff in my video up there instead. I'm just useless at translating instructions for moving my body into actual body movements... an uncoordinated bag of flesh and bones! Will get there eventually, or I won't :shrug: Edited August 27, 2021 by marg26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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