marg26 Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 (edited) My Console front wheel is held in the forks by QR. I don't like it, it doesn't seem sufficient, it creaks sometimes and is bugging me. I'd rather bolt the wheel in place properly even though I'd need to do so every time I ride it. What are my options, what do I need? I see Tartys have V!Z end caps guessing that's where I'd start... but with those in place does it work similarly to the rear Hope Pro2 Evo SS hub? ie Two bolts + axle bolt washers for each side? Am I right thinking that any axle bolt washer would suffice, and then Just looked at the description again and realize I overlooked the part where it mentions a 10mm axle. Not sure if I can even change the existing end caps for these or not now. Any ideas? Cheers. Edited January 28, 2019 by marg26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 (edited) I might be wrong but I remember those hubs being bolt-in hubs. It's got a Hope skewer in it so it's clearly not the original setup! Take the skewer out, and if there's threads inside the axle you just need a pair of standard M6 bolts and axle-washers. (NOT the ones you've linked to - they're for something else.) I like the Monty ones because the serrations feel like they help. I think it's pure placebo, but if it provides comfort I'll take it The Trialtech, Try-All or Echos would all work too, if your axle has the internal threads I suspect it does. Edited January 28, 2019 by aener 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 (edited) Thanks, yes you're right. I had a closer 2nd look and there are M6 threads inside the QR axle, about 21mm on the disc side and at least 40mm the other. Guess I can take my choice of axle-washers from Tartys provided they're for M6 bolts? Do you know how to get to the bearings at all? Edited January 28, 2019 by marg26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 Any of the axle bolt washers should do you fine. There will be some designed for M10 bolts, but they'll be very clearly labelled (and I think more expensive), so just read the description and all will be well. I can 100% vouch for the Trialtech, Monty, Try-All and Echo as I just looked on the list. Any of those would be fine, and just an M6 bolt, yes. You won't need to touch the bearings unless you know they're on the way out/already dead. Don't bother opening it up just to have a look If you do need to get at the bearings, it'll just be a case of tapping one end of the axle with a mallet. Don't use a hammer - alloy axle ends fold over quite easily and you won't be able to get a bolt in it. If you don't have a wood/rubber mallet, put a piece of wood over the end of the axle and tap lightly, adding force until it shifts. Tapping it will push the opposite bearing out. To get it back in, just do the reverse. You'll need to find a ring of something hard that lines up with the outer edge of the bearing. Don't hit the middle - it'll stress the bearings internals. If you can't get it completely settled in where it was because your hitting implement doesn't fit, if it's close enough to get the hub inside the forks just slide it in and use the axle bolts to press the bearings in the rest of the way. It's not ideal as this will press on the middle of the bearing like I just told you not to, but if it's done by a gentle bolt instead of a mallet impact, and not done often, it shouldn't have too much effect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted January 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 (edited) Thanks for the help. The bearings are starting to feel a bit rough will leave it for a rainy day later on. Edited January 28, 2019 by marg26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) After fitting the wheel with a pair of 25mm M6 bolts, then cutting one of them down to 23mm, the wheel still isn't properly secure. Where the hub axle is fractionally wider than the dropouts, the Trialtech axle bolt washer I bought are gripping against the axle rather than the dropouts. Are there any axle bolt washers designed with a little recess to accommodate the axle to avoid gripping against it? Either that or a couple of thin washers either side of the hub sandwiched by the dropouts would accomplish the same job (and the forks do compressed to the hub width when tightened). Edited February 3, 2019 by marg26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archie H Posted February 4, 2019 Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 I had a similar problem with a old bmx frame that had pretty thin worn out dropouts. I just found a washer and stuck it between the dropout and bolt to space it out a bit (as you said you could put it inside the droput if the fork is flexing inwards alot when tightened, just make sure there is still a bit of axle in contact with the dropout or your wheel might fall out). You could also take a file to the hub axle and shorten it up a bit which should work fine and may look a little neater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aener Posted February 4, 2019 Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Eugh. Washers on the outside of the dropout (between dropout and axle washers) would be your best bet, otherwise you're getting a very small contact surface between axle and dropout. I hate trans-generational issues like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Ah ok, washers on the outside sounds more sensible, that's why I mentioned it before just throwing some on there. Did think about filing the axle slightly, but not keen. Might try a serrated washer or should I not? Possibly over thinking this now? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marg26 Posted April 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2019 (edited) Been using the bolts for some time now, having filed the axle down each side slightly. Wasn't really sure how much to torque them, started off probably a bit too high at 18nm for M6. Then decided to grease them a little so didn't go quite so high, maybe 17nm. Noticed that after getting both sides up to around 13~14nm, then going up to say 16nm, one side would just take maybe 1/3rd of a turn, while the other would take over a whole turn! This evening was no different to all the others except the bolt sheered off right around the point it usually reached torque. Bugger. Will it be possible to drill out, then clean with a tap? Anyone had to? Likelihood of getting replacement axle? EDIT: Removed axle from hub (as per aener's instruction) took it to my Dads to use his pillar drill and bolt extractors when he starts poking it with a screwdriver. I tell him that won't work and then do the same myself and it moves. Good job I put all that grease in there. Removed super easy. Wish I tried that before removing it! Lesson learnt. EDIT: Gone back to QR and since a. I was wrong to think QR was the issue, and b. the bike is stored without front wheel on. The last I'm saying on this! Edited April 14, 2019 by marg26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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