JT! Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Removed the two smaller rings and put the biggest one in the middle. Removed the derailleur and cables etc. I knew that all the rear gears worked fine on the middle ring, so I didn't think I'd end up with a problem, but now the chain will fall off when using the bigger rings on the back and there seems to be a lot of scraping and clunking going on at the back. Never done this before, anyone have any idea what's going on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikee Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Check the chain line. It sounds like it's a bit out and biased towards the smaller cogs. I needed to use some narrow chain ring spacers to make it as close to prefect as I could, when I converted mine from 3x to 1x. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 After doing research, I need a "narrow wide chainring". Didn't even know those were a thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 A n/w ring won't solve issues with the rear mech not being properly setup unless it's the front ring that it's falling off. Front chainrings from a multiple ring setup have shifting ramps cut into the teeth so it deliberately derails the chain (hence the derailleur), if your chainline is too far inboard when using the larger sprockets on the cassette it will just pull the chain off the front as if the front mech was there and changing gear. A single specific ring (with full height teeth and no shifting ramps) should alleviate most of your problems but a n/w ring is the better way to go, they generally have extended teeth and the alternating tooth width corresponding with the gap between the chain link plates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted April 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2018 1 hour ago, forteh said: ...unless it's the front ring that it's falling off. This is the case. I ordered a NW chainring so now I just got to play the waiting game. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davetrials Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Are you using any kind chain guide? eg: https://eu.bythehive.com/collections/chainguide/products/trs-plus-cmpct-i05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 Nope. So I put on a NW chainring and that solved the dropping issue, it's a little clunky now though, gonna make sure the derailleur is tuned tomorrow but I feel like there's still gonna be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 Check your chainline. When I went to 1x10 on my Meta I ended up running the NW ring on the inside of the spider with some spacers to get the chainline better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 I mean, it's in the middle. My issue now is trying to set up my rear derailleur. It's obviously not moving far enough to the right, in the bottom gear it jumps between the bottom two rings. But when I mess with the set screws I see absolutely no movement. Edit: Scrap that, been so long since I worked on a bike with gears forgot which way around they were. Gears shift and line up fine. It all just sounds like a cement mixer when I pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 Have you adjusted the B tension screw? It's the one that sets the spacing from the upper jockey wheel to the cassette, if the gap is too small it will chunder as the chain transisions from one to the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 Hum, didn't even know that was a thing. But, I did take it out for a test ride and once I got the bike out of the house and onto the road it didn't really seem to sound that bad. First time I've used a bike stand to mess with the gears indoors so maybe it was expecting it to be silent. Also a few miles on it seems to have helped too, seemed much quieter after it got bedded in... if that's a thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 Also, what would you guys suggest for a 8spd shifter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 How old is the chain and cassette? If it's slipping on the rear sprockets at all then I would replace both chain and cassette. It should run almost silent with a well lubricated chain. 8 speed? Fill your boots with whatever you can pick up second hand from pinkbike or ebay; I would go for xt/xtr level, the materials are better quality and given the inherent age of the unit, more likely to last longer. Depending on what your rear mech is will determine what shifter you need, shimano and sram use different actuation ratios (the shifter needs to pull different lengths of cable) and you need to match one to the other. Google your rear mech and find out what shifter you need. Bear in mind that some sram shifters had shimano compatible actuation ratios (specifically the rocket and attack series of 9speed). Personally I'm using a 9 speed sunrace cassette, 10 speed xt shadow+ mech and a 9 speed sram x5 shifter, a right codge up of components that should not, by design, function together due to the cable pull ratios. Putting a 6.3mm spacer block under the cable clamp on the mech changes the ratio and makes it index perfectly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted May 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 On 5/1/2018 at 2:52 AM, forteh said: How old is the chain and cassette? If it's slipping on the rear sprockets at all then I would replace both chain and cassette. It should run almost silent with a well lubricated chain. 8 speed? Fill your boots with whatever you can pick up second hand from pinkbike or ebay; I would go for xt/xtr level, the materials are better quality and given the inherent age of the unit, more likely to last longer. Depending on what your rear mech is will determine what shifter you need, shimano and sram use different actuation ratios (the shifter needs to pull different lengths of cable) and you need to match one to the other. Google your rear mech and find out what shifter you need. Bear in mind that some sram shifters had shimano compatible actuation ratios (specifically the rocket and attack series of 9speed). Personally I'm using a 9 speed sunrace cassette, 10 speed xt shadow+ mech and a 9 speed sram x5 shifter, a right codge up of components that should not, by design, function together due to the cable pull ratios. Putting a 6.3mm spacer block under the cable clamp on the mech changes the ratio and makes it index perfectly Pretty new, maybe only been out in it a dozen times. It's a Shimano Sora mech. I'll keep an eye out and see what ebay has to offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted May 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 So I've certainly bit off more than I can chew with the chainring. 50t with 12-25t on the back is too high geared. I mean it's great for mild hills and on the level, but any kind of actual real incline and I'm toast. I'm deciding between 38, 40 or 42t. Probably gonna go with a 40t. But can't seem to find anything that isn't crazy high priced, in 130mm BCD, that isn't in China. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 On 5/1/2018 at 8:52 AM, forteh said: Personally I'm using a 9 speed sunrace cassette, 10 speed xt shadow+ mech and a 9 speed sram x5 shifter, a right codge up of components that should not, by design, function together due to the cable pull ratios. Putting a 6.3mm spacer block under the cable clamp on the mech changes the ratio and makes it index perfectly Got a photo of this Ed? I would quite like to try it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Will get one later 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 2 hours ago, JT! said: So I've certainly bit off more than I can chew with the chainring. 50t with 12-25t on the back is too high geared. I mean it's great for mild hills and on the level, but any kind of actual real incline and I'm toast. I'm deciding between 38, 40 or 42t. Probably gonna go with a 40t. But can't seem to find anything that isn't crazy high priced, in 130mm BCD, that isn't in China. Any ideas? Superstar components. I got one for my CX bike from there, I'd be very surprised if they don't have something for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 Better late than never! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 Mega, I have an X5 shifter handy so I'll get sorting that! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 That ratio mod only works on the 10 speed dynasys shadow+ mech. Mine is an xt m786 but I think all of the 10 speed shimano use the same ratio so should be able to use an slx, zee, saint or xtr with the same mod. I don't think it matters what range the sram shifter is from as long as it's 9 speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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