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JD™

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That's 3mm flexible ply, it'll go down to about 60mm radius naturally if you're really careful with it. I reckon you could get it tighter if you score the back and or stream it a little. It's only three layers and it's very loose grain. Super easy to snap if you push it too far.

Edited by forteh
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After months and months of having the 3D printed and laser cut bits ready for the shifter, I finally got off my arse and started assembling it :)

Still waiting on a couple of microswitches to fit into the 7+1 H pattern before I can finish off tidying up the wiring but I've tested it in sequential mode and it works very well.

My initial plan to centre the sequential shifter with stainless leaf springs failed dramatically so I cobbled together a grooved nylon bobbin (using a pistol drill held in a vice with a hacksaw and files as a lathe:D) and used shock cord for the spring and it works very well and can be retensioned if need be.

The shifter converts to H pattern by unscrewing the shift knob and the two knurled nuts, lifting the sequential unit off and refitting the shift knob - completely tool less and takes about a minute to do.

Shifter2.jpg

Shifter1.jpg

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Made some glittery cubes.

I had intended to make some candle holders as DIY Christmas presents, but realised that it's not the greatest design for such a thing. So I've ordered some solar-powered "fairy" lights that can be crammed inside - I guess that should make them a bit more useful. 

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Added a handbrake to the shifter, got a bit of a spiky pot output, I think because I'm not using the expected resistance (thrustmaster pot wired into a logitech motherboard).

Got to trim the lever one I've figured out the best position for the grip :)

PXL_20201227_191438945.jpg

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Been working on this school project for a while now, had a 6 month extension due to school closures last year and have still managed to be running a bit late..

I know this probably won't look very impressive to most of you, but here's my first home made colour photo:

5ff10f463e11e_Autochrome001Watermark.thumb.jpg.79e2d2207e6e3670bfe56390dbf54cac.jpg

You can make out what the colours of the books on the top shelf are fairly well.

It's based on the autochrome process and not yet exactly how it should be, but I'm quite chuffed! The idea would be that I now should be able to hold the glass plate up against a light source and see a colour photo. Right now though I can't see a thing by eye but by scanning it and bumping the saturation up to 80 that shows up. :)
I know what I'd need to do from here in order to get to that point but I won't have time before I need to hand my paper in. Should do for the project though considering opting for creating and evaluating a questionnaire would have been fine too. But this was my only chance to use whatever machine I fancied in a chemistry lab I had to pounce on the opportunity.

 

Edit: here's a colour photo of the top row for comparision:
5ff1120e09c6d_Screenshot2021-01-03013752.jpg.5fb82f56d8b271d7bdcf72ba0ca883c7.jpg

Edited by Topsy
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12 hours ago, Topsy said:

Been working on this school project for a while now, had a 6 month extension due to school closures last year and have still managed to be running a bit late..

I know this probably won't look very impressive to most of you, but here's my first home made colour photo:

5ff10f463e11e_Autochrome001Watermark.thumb.jpg.79e2d2207e6e3670bfe56390dbf54cac.jpg

You can make out what the colours of the books on the top shelf are fairly well.

It's based on the autochrome process and not yet exactly how it should be, but I'm quite chuffed! The idea would be that I now should be able to hold the glass plate up against a light source and see a colour photo. Right now though I can't see a thing by eye but by scanning it and bumping the saturation up to 80 that shows up. :)
I know what I'd need to do from here in order to get to that point but I won't have time before I need to hand my paper in. Should do for the project though considering opting for creating and evaluating a questionnaire would have been fine too. But this was my only chance to use whatever machine I fancied in a chemistry lab I had to pounce on the opportunity.

 

Edit: here's a colour photo of the top row for comparision:
5ff1120e09c6d_Screenshot2021-01-03013752.jpg.5fb82f56d8b271d7bdcf72ba0ca883c7.jpg

For the life of me, i could not see those books until I saw the photo of the books below. that was odd

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On 1/3/2021 at 10:52 AM, aener said:

That's so cool :D
So far out of my remit that I can't really understand the challenges, but doing anything high-tech from scratch is a big thumbs up from me!

I feel like I must confess that it's probably not really high-tech. Though I'd love to let people believe that it is!

The plate is put together out of 5 layers.
- The first is the glass, which is pretty straight forward.
- The second is rubber cement. To apply this as a thin layer it's diluted in xylene, poured onto the glassplate and moved about by tilting the plate.
- The third layer is a layer of coloured starch grains, red, purple and green. These are mixed together to give a pretty random pattern and pressed flat onto the glue.
- The fourth is a varnish, I lucked out on this - I had a boat varnish called "Le Tonkinois" lying around. I knew that it stands up well to alcohols and is watertight. I went ahead and used this (applied like the glue) and, although it's slightly hydrophobic it seems to work.
- The fifth is the photographic emulsion itself. I'd have loved to have made this myself but with covid and school closures it got a bit complicated. I bought a finished one from Rollei (RBM 3). this however needed to be modified as standard emulsions only "see" blue light (which is why one could handle films under a safelight with no issues years ago). I needed to extend it's sensitivity range into the red with dyes. In my case erythrosine (E127) and pinacyanol. The plates are coated with the emulsion and then the lights get switched off and they get bathed in a water bath containing the dyes. Dry in the dark.
You then take a photo, and develop it in regular black & white developer. At this stage I should be bleaching the plates to receive a positive image, but again, covid.. So right now I end up with a negative that I need to scan and invert.

The biggest challenge honestly seems to be to actually dye the starch properly. I substituted potato starch with rice starch due to it's grain size. the average potato starch grain is way larger than the average rice starch grain and would need to be sorted by size, so I thought I'd give rice starch a go, knowing that for some reason they're harder to dye. Will need to dry with potato too and compare them sometime.

I also have been in contact with a chap that has had way better results, he wrote a guide this year and helped me with seemingly eternal patience. If anyone interested his guide can be found here.

 

On 1/3/2021 at 2:16 PM, Davetrials said:

For the life of me, i could not see those books until I saw the photo of the books below. that was odd

I can sort of understand that.. I see them every day and knew what I was looking at. :P

 

Edited by Topsy
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hi thought i show a make frome the end of last year ended up my dads christmas present 

cut a knife blank out of a lump of plough steel a cupple years ago 07E5E813-7334-426B-ABF3-F22F6604201A.thumb.jpg.ab89de312f8a7c14b261e411e11afab7.jpg

then decide one nighe id finish it so after a cupple of evenings in the shed i ended up with this2e0c6ee5-5a9e-4f89-9911-b9ce7ba8bb4e.thumb.jpg.0208fe1d2e1263f21f9efbc04fcfcf16.jpge14dfa87-e523-423a-95f7-f9df918947de.thumb.jpg.7e668a8123a8f091fd2f8ba18cbbb09f.jpg8fdb9738-0f62-47fc-97a9-e884d9dfb2de.thumb.jpg.dd9ea88614739a7e3fad88c5f82599a8.jpg38e3a849-7334-4e8f-9867-9c7189c41084.thumb.jpg.909a542626b9ca4b24004e208999557a.jpg

turned out better than i thought it would now my dad is gnoing to see if he can make a sheith for it

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  • 3 weeks later...
23 hours ago, dann2707 said:

That's awesome, do you have a cow around the back that you just take leather from as and when you have a project on the go? 

I've accrued enough leather this year to open my own DFS, there are so many types I just seem to have a constant supply coming in, good fun though, as it all has unique properties and quirks.

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Just testing the waters: Would anyone in here be interested in buying my lightly used Makita 10" table saw?
I thought I really wanted one, but it turns out I don't really like using it, and I make things that involve using it far less than I thought I would. I'd be better off with a decent band saw (open to swaps for one if anyone miraculously is in the opposite position).

It's a good unit. Only downside is that it's not got soft-start and is a non-induction motor.

 

It's this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-MLT100N-Table-Saw-240/dp/B07TGKVYQR/ref=asc_df_B07TGKVYQR/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=480823740401&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2195862332224502768&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006832&hvtargid=pla-931154176939&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Obviously I'll grab proper pictures if there's any interest.

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Can’t remember what thread I’ve been putting these in but - doors are nearly in - just need some expanding foam around and sealant...

A813A2E2-2CF4-4AC6-BEE5-9B2347EA14C2.thumb.jpeg.364a727abede93066b435f36c965b27e.jpeg
 

hopefully be able to get that done and handles and vents tomorrow and can take a pic without all the tape on. 
 

no more crappy leaky tarp.

 

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Frame #2 ready for welding!

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Used nice butted tubing this time, so is 1.86kg as shown and hoping for a hair under 2kg when complete. 

Mitres all cut by clamping the tubes in the lathe with a home made, er, clamp, and then sticking a holesaw through. Gives nice results and should make welding easier.

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This is end intended end result... bit of a weird bike, but its a lot of fun for general MTB duties with a bit of light trials thrown in. Sus forks can be swapped in easily too.

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