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JD™

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Nice work Dave! Looks really neat and using old knackered stuff is always a win :D

 

I ended up taking a flap disc to my dropouts and they came out nicely. Just a little shaping to break up the industrial look...

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Then I lobbed some paint on. Its impossible to get a good representation of the colour indoors using a phone, but its an orange clear coat over a coarse metal flake base. Need to order another can to finish off the orange, but I'm looking forward to seeing what its like in sunlight once the lacquer has been applied.

In theory should be like this...

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What are your thoughts on oval rings @Adam@TartyBikes? I've been running one on the geared Whyte for a while (though never noticed much difference) and now I'm not sure whether it will help or hinder on the bike now it's singlespeed... Gearing-wise as well I'm a bit unsure- it's a 32T oval ring which seems to mean itis almost like having a 30T off power and 34T on power so maybe I need to consider dropping to a 30T oval (or 32T round of course).

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Oval on singlespeed... pros and cons really! I've tried round and oval, both 32T, and bought a round for the new bike - but I wouldn't change if I already had a suitable oval already on the bike.

Pro: With oval I like the way you can 'flip' the cranks over into the next power stroke more easily when you're really grinding away at low cadence. Con: I don't like the way your power stroke effectively has a larger gear, which is the opposite of what you want. I think this also makes the bike a bit more 'lurchy', because climbing steep stuff SS is already less smooth (in terms of power application) than seated / geared.

You could go down 2 teeth to make the ratio more 'normal', but then you lose top speed for flats and downhill. When you're maxed out on cadence you don't notice the oval at all because there's not enough resistance.

Hope that rambling at least makes some sense...

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On 11/29/2021 at 9:38 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said:

Sweet! Keen to see what you think :D

I reckon it will definitely make me fitter! I'm normally a fairly 'lazy' biker, sticking it in a low gear and not really trying very hard, preferring to pop a wheelie and mess around. I've been out a couple of times and I'm definitely riding faster on it because I feel I need to maintain the momentum and keep a sensible (higher than normal) cadence. It's lovely and quiet and smooth though and I've only gone for a phantom shift a couple of times!

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  • 4 weeks later...

So early this year, (jan 13th) i started the whole leather thing, which i love and will continue to do, but i fancy another challenge so have decided to give 3d design a whirl after finding out that blender (popular and very capable software) is completely free, not sure how this will go, it could be a spur of the moment idea as i have ten days of free time over xmas and once work kicks in ill go back to hating every weekday.

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/28/2021 at 5:24 PM, Davetrials said:

So early this year, (jan 13th) i started the whole leather thing, which i love and will continue to do, but i fancy another challenge so have decided to give 3d design a whirl after finding out that blender (popular and very capable software) is completely free, not sure how this will go, it could be a spur of the moment idea as i have ten days of free time over xmas and once work kicks in ill go back to hating every weekday.

yer i quit this the second i got back to work and started arriving home at 8pm again

also 3d design is HARD AF, after making a donut and half of it looked as though it had transcended multiple universes, i called it a day

Edited by Davetrials
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I always have a mess of cables, chargers and batteries for my multiple cameras and I’ve been wanting a battery charging station for a while.

Inspired by similar home made versions today I made my own charging station from an Ikea pegboard. It keeps my empty and charged batteries easy to organize, cables are tucked neatly behind, I can hang it from a shelf meaning I don’t take up any worktop space.
 

Very pleased with it and should take away some of the stress of organizing my videos :) 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Quick shed update (didn’t really make it but it’s in something I made.) flatpack marathon turned out ok.

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need to tidy up and get the desk sorted, ordered a new monitor finally, now just need a decent keyboard and mouse combo.

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  • 2 months later...

Because my flight sim rudder pedals are now close to 20 years old and getting rather clunky and stiff I figured I would make a new set to fit within the physical constraints of my nerd cupboard.

Ideally I would have a set of thrustmaster TPR rudders but the 400 quid outlay isn't possible and the central support design prevents access to my sim racing pedals. I've approached the design based upon the mechanism of the TPR but with outboard supports rather than inboard. I've decided to use a cam driven centering spring which has adjustable preload and can be backed off entirely in order to make the pedals better suited for helicopter usage (antitorque pedals in helicopters don't self centre like plane rudder pedals do).

In addition to the main rudder axis (one pedal forwards one pedal backwards) there are left and right toebrakes that are applied by rolling your foot forwards.

All three axes will be positionally read by hall sensors (magnetic sensitive sensors essentially) and rare earth magnets.

The toe brakes will have miniature has struts on them for spring return and damping. I'll be using another couple of struts set at mid stroke to damp the motion of the main pedal arms.

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rear underside.png

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edit: added a second pair of gas struts to act as a damper for the main pedals. For plane use, engage the centering spring by winding up the preload collar on the pull rod, for helicopter use release the preload entirely and the dampers should hold it in a set position as per real life.

Also found a clevis under my work desk that has been there for the last 10 years or so, makes the pull rod much simpler to construct.

dampers.png

updated cam.png

Edited by forteh
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  • 2 weeks later...

Did some making :D

 

A couple of bits to tweak but for a first dry run it's not gone together too badly.  Got to wait for the laser cut toebrake parts so I can tweak the mechanism till then.

Spring preload works really nicely with the dampers, with it wound to almost zero preload they stick in one position, wind the preload on an inch and they smoothly return to centre without a noise :)

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Edited by forteh
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That's a bit crap, I'll reattach then when I'm back on the computer, currently toddler cuddling on the sofa :)

edit: reattached photos above, I've made the minor tweaks to the cam link plate that lets me recentre the cam much better and repositioned the lower end of the damper struts so that they don't limit the stroke now.  Hopefully at the weekend I'll be able to get the main cross beam sensor and magnet fitted, get them bolted onto my desk and go fly with them.  I'll add the toe brakes when I've got the bits.

Edited by forteh
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Sensor clamp and magnet bracket made up, magnet is one salvaged from an old HDD.  Turns out that the original intended magnets weren't really big or strong enough and weren't giving great results over the full range of motion; new one is much stronger and large enough for the sensor to not pass over it's boundary.  Made a small angle bracket to glue the magnet to and clamped the sensor behind an offcut of aluminium flat, cut a slot into the back of the clamp plate to keep the sensor and wires all contained and aligned.

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Also got a couple of videos to show the operation: -

Half spring tension

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bXWBLPt8H5n9UBKR6

Full spring tension

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mjg6RuouGbyBTatHA

Spring tension released for helos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/623PBkMJt7moS9JE8

Edited by forteh
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Holy shit these things are stupendous.

Like incredible.

Sooo much control, I've just been flying a ka50 in a circle strafe around a train traveling 90kmh, 10m off the ground. Old rudder pedals would never allow such shenanigans.

Sensitive enough that I can transition the gun pipper on the A10C sideways by 5m on a target 1.5 miles away yet at full deflection it puts so much rudder input into the plane, it flips over on it's back at will.

Even better they're silent and completely stiction free :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

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