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TRP Spyke mech disc brake?


Scoox

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Does anyone here have experience with TRP Spyke mech disc brakes? It's a dual-sided mechanical caliper, some MTB riders claim to be nicer than BB7s. I run BB7s front and rear on my mod and they do their job well, I'm just wondering if there are better options. I've considered hydros many times but I love the simplicity of mechs too much to give up.

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Edited by Scoox
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Had one of these on a mod once on the front and compared to a BB7 they felt very similar. Not the best for hold but initial bite isn't too bad for a cable disc brake. Personally if you are going for a cable disc brake/caliper I'd go down the Avid route :)

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2 hours ago, JJ Leigh said:

Had one of these on a mod once on the front and compared to a BB7 they felt very similar. Not the best for hold but initial bite isn't too bad for a cable disc brake. Personally if you are going for a cable disc brake/caliper I'd go down the Avid route :)

Well, Avid BB7 *is* the route at the moment, I'm just looking for something with better modulation. I could be wrong but wouldn't dual-sided pistons be a refinement over single-sided BB7s? The fixed pad on BB7 needs to be very close to the rotor to work properly, so I get a bit of rubbing. I read some posts elsewhere of people bitching that BB7s are a PITA to set up compared with the Spykes, due to the conical spacers. The Avid mounting system is very clever as it's the only caliper alignment system that doesn't require facing the caliper mounts, as far as I know. It's never taken me more than a couple of minutes to align.

I'm tempted to guinea-pig this one though...

Edited by Scoox
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  • 2 weeks later...

I've got the trp spyre (road version) on my touring bike and I would say they are the worst f**king brakes I've ever owned. Ok not as bad as Hayes early disc brakes the year 2000... but pretty close.  The pads unwind themselves after 1 hour of riding, I haven't taken the time to remove the pads and put loctite on the screws to hope that stops it. With four fingers I cannot get the front brake to lock up into an endo, the road version is weaker than the mountain version?

 

I have tried the Spyke model on my friends Alias for a ride around the parking lot. First impression is mushy shite. Just like hope mini back in the day- you squeeze it - it hits- the caliper expands 2-3 mm under the pressure... makes your lever feel mushy and you will pull it until the bar stops you.  Not my idea of a good brake for trials.

 

 Avid bbdb / odyssey cable&housing/ single digit 7 lever / tt pads = ultimate brake land for mechanicals..

Edited by AndyT
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16 hours ago, AndyT said:

I've got the trp spyre (road version) on my touring bike and I would say they are the worst f**king brakes I've ever owned. Ok not as bad as Hayes early disc brakes the year 2000... but pretty close.  The pads unwind themselves after 1 hour of riding, I haven't taken the time to remove the pads and put loctite on the screws to hope that stops it. With four fingers I cannot get the front brake to lock up into an endo, the road version is weaker than the mountain version?

 

I have tried the Spyke model on my friends Alias for a ride around the parking lot. First impression is mushy shite. Just like hope mini back in the day- you squeeze it - it hits- the caliper expands 2-3 mm under the pressure... makes your lever feel mushy and you will pull it until the bar stops you.  Not my idea of a good brake for trials.

 Avid bbdb / odyssey cable&housing/ single digit 7 lever / tt pads = ultimate brake land for mechanicals..

Sounds like a classic case of mushy shite. Thanks for the heads-up. Is it possible you were using long pull-levers though? From what I've read road brakes need short-pull levers, just checkin'. I guess I'm sticking with my BB7s anyway.

Edited by Scoox
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