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The one to rule them all - Disc brake for trials/everyday/xc I can keep for the rest of my life


Yohandsome

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Just got back into trials replacing my steel frame roadbike with a Raleigh Redux 2 (used, it was cheap), possibly a mid-life crisis @ 33. My old trials/xc bike I built myself w Avid BB7 up front and Avid V-brakes on the rear which as far as I can remember was great, the Promax Solve hydraulics on the Redux are in comparison highly questionable. Looking for a pair of disc brakes for max $200/set with good enough modulation for nose manuals and strong enough to do pedal hops with confidence.

What rotors/adapters/brakes/levers do you recommend? (I'm 190 lb)

ra_17_redux2_green_angle_1.jpg

Edited by Yohandsome
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Ok I got too excited reading the forums, so here's what I got, prices including shipping (i'm in the US atm soon moving back to EU)

Jagwire Ripcord w Teflon coated cables kit $25 (new)
Avid HS1 180mm rotor $14 (for rear, lightly used)
Avid 40mm adapter $8 (new)
BB7-S MTB calipers (incl SD7 levers, 160mm HS1 rotors and organic pads, used once) $75


Total incl shipping and taxes: $122 or 96GBP - not bad! Any reason to upgrade from stock avid organic pads?

Edited by Yohandsome
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As for your avid love... go for the odyssey linear slic cable, amazing and $5 from amazon.  I'm a HUGE fan of the original avid bbdb caliper, the new bb7 is all shit if you ask me... mushy shit like every new 4 finger lever/ advanced lightweight more leverage brake.  Hard to find the bbdb now a days, used to be on eBay for $25- paired with 203 rotor, odyssey cable, avid lever =  stiffer than all hydraulics but the old saint... and way more long lasting, zero maintenance.

I've ridden every mt567, xt, slx, trialzone, other mechanical brakes... bbdb/linear slic/ avid lever trumps them all in terms of longevity and cost. With jitsie/trialtech pads they bite harrrrd...would not suggest those pads for xc riding. Hardest part is the set up, which 98% of people have no  clue about and leads to a shite brake.

 

I also ride a 30 year old steel rigid bike with u brakes faster on mtb trails than most with $8,000 full sus bikes so take what I say with a jaded old man grain of salt...

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@bing how does it compare when it comes to lockup force of the bb7 with same rotor size?
@andyt I have a pair of BBDB and will compare it to the new MTS caliper on 180 mm hs1 discs with the ripcord housing and sd7 levers. I heard you could shave some metal of it to fit 160/180/200 mm discs? Re setup, I'm thinking to go for the "loosen caliper, break hard to making the caliper grab the rotor and self align, then tighten bolts".

 

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5 hours ago, Yohandsome said:

@bing how does it compare when it comes to lockup force of the bb7 with same rotor size?
@andyt I have a pair of BBDB and will compare it to the new MTS caliper on 180 mm hs1 discs with the ripcord housing and sd7 levers. I heard you could shave some metal of it to fit 160/180/200 mm discs? Re setup, I'm thinking to go for the "loosen caliper, break hard to making the caliper grab the rotor and self align, then tighten bolts".

 

Set up goes beyond that. On the bbdb I put the rotor right next to the side that doesn't move, so that when I pull it's not pushing it very far.  Loosen the bolts that att arch to fork, wins the non moving pad in 2 clicks, then wind he moving pad all the way into its solid-tighten the caliper to fork, then wind each out out one click. Keep going on the moving side pad till you get little to no rubbing as you soon the wheel.

How you cut the housing is the most important part, I use a dremmel cutting disc to make sure it's completely flat against the ferrule, and lever makes a huge difference. XT levers for example make a shit feeling brake, cheapO sd7 levers make it feel great... and  the ultimate levers are next level.

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It's interesting, Avid/SRAM specifies two different methods to adjust the brake.

One is loosen caliper first, then squeeze brake lever 5 times, then hold break lever in and tighten caliper bolts, then adjust non moving pad first until it hits the rotor, then the moving pad until it hits the rotor, then back both off 2-3 twists. The other method is the same expect you don't do the brake squeeze first and you tighten the caliper bolts after you've moved both the moving and non moving pads into contact with the rotor. Nor sure which method is best!

I just got 180 mm hs1 with the avid mts s installed on front and it's light-years better than 160 mm promax solve even without ripcord cable and with stock organic pads. Next I'll upgrade it with ripcord cabling. Turns out the ebay vendor sent me bigger 180 mm rotors front and rear, no complaints..

 

Edited by Yohandsome
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