Dman Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) @CC12345678910 I will eat my words slightly, as my race face bb just shit it's threads, probably more user error than faulty because I rode with it loose a few times, I didn't realise when purchasing, it needed a different bb tool than what I had, so I just used mole grips, trying not to damage it, but I think it ovalised the cups a bit as well. Been creaking for last few rides, then I noticed drive side cup was pulling out at an angle. Anyway I have the cinch 30mm crank, so I got a Rotor bsa30 steel bb, because it was £40 but included the spanner, race face spanner is £20. Luckily frame threads were fine. I also managed to smash up my race face pre-load collar, which is a composite screw ring to take up any slack on crank spindle. I didn't like this part of the crank from the start. The collar is £15. Instead of buying the collar I got a mate to cut me some bb spacers of different widths. So I now have 2 of the standard thickness plastic spacers on drive side and equivalent of probably just under 2.5 spacers on non drive side. This eliminates any side to side movement just like the collar did and all feels good, no creaks. Am I pushing it with 2.5 spacers? The bb cup threads seemed quite long, roughly half the thread in the frame. Previously on one spacer non drive side with collar wound out. Would a spacer on the axle be better? Ti chairing bolts. Thanks Edited June 22, 2016 by Dman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gage-mann Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) Should be sound with them spacers especially now you've got the cups torqued up with the specific spanner and not mole grips Edited June 22, 2016 by gage-mann 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dman Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Spaced on axle>bb stronger or nah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gage-mann Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Well I guess it'd be safer for the Bb threads putting spacers on the axle. Make up half of the spacers your running on the bb now and put spacers on the axle too, best of both worlds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dman Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Yes I was thinking the usual 2 drive side, 1 non drive side, and the 1.5 spacer width made into an axle spacer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Pretty sure this is a thread just to show off your new ti bolts with different angles.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dman Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Err no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 I have a feeling that'll be raping the BB bearings as it is, the lockring is there for a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narrowbars Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 I personally would buy an Alloy pre-load adjuster when available, use x1 spacer each side of the bottom bracket cups and use alloy BB30 axle spacers to adjust chainline/excess. The more thread contact holding your bottom bracket cups into the frame the safer http://www.wiggle.co.uk/race-face-next-sl-cinch-crank-arm-bearing-pre-loader/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dman Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 6 hours ago, Adam@TartyBikes said: I have a feeling that'll be raping the BB bearings as it is, the lockring is there for a reason. It's not tight at all, no rubbing or any noises. As it is now, it's the metal of the crank arm pushing against the plastic spacer before the bearing, with the collar its plastic onto plastic, as long as they both bring it to the same tension, tightness it should be the same? 6 hours ago, narrowbars said: I personally would buy an Alloy pre-load adjuster when available, use x1 spacer each side of the bottom bracket cups and use alloy BB30 axle spacers to adjust chainline/excess. The more thread contact holding your bottom bracket cups into the frame the safer http://www.wiggle.co.uk/race-face-next-sl-cinch-crank-arm-bearing-pre-loader/ Can't find ally one anywhere only the composite one. I need 2 spacers drive side for chairing to clear frame, I have always used 2 drive side and never had issue before. Where can you get alloy bb30 axle spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 I can't really contribute here, but I do hate the modern Race Face hollowtech bb/crank system, I love my Diabolus cranks but the Shimano system is so much better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dman Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Surely can't be much different than that, it's got the metal ring pushing onto the plastic spacer that sits on the bearing? I'm not saying its ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narrowbars Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 13 hours ago, Dman said: It's not tight at all, no rubbing or any noises. As it is now, it's the metal of the crank arm pushing against the plastic spacer before the bearing, with the collar its plastic onto plastic, as long as they both bring it to the same tension, tightness it should be the same? Can't find ally one anywhere only the composite one. I need 2 spacers drive side for chairing to clear frame, I have always used 2 drive side and never had issue before. Where can you get alloy bb30 axle spacers? Rotor make alloy spacers in 2 sizes 5.5mm and 8.5mm, see here - http://velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vprod4.asp?cat=7386000657&PageOrder=0&PagNo=1&ipp=9999 I would use a combo of them for the spacing of your cranks and chain ring/line, and have the bb threaded fully into the frame or 1 spacer each side if it was me. Looking at the picture of your left hand (non-driveside) bb cup, you really can't have much thread contact holding that in? For the alloy pre-load ring contact http://www.silverfish-uk.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.