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Isn't bike ok, is it good. Any small upgrades I should do.


Levi / onza pro

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You're quite an annoying person, Matt. Just in case you weren't aware.

They're good bikes, right from the off. If you're happy with how it rides, leave it as it is until you're not.
I'm assuming you've just started riding given your other posts and join date - I know it's exciting and tempting to spend money on shiny new parts, but honestly: don't.
You'll have to buy plenty of parts over the course of riding because they'll break or wear out, so save your money when you can.
If you decide "Hmm, this bike feels too big for me, now that I'm getting into it," then by all means get a shorter stem, or change the tyres if you don't find them grippy enough (those ones are fine for beginners).
Change things when you need to, because the amount of money you'll probably spend on them over the next few years is depressing enough already :P 

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as aener said just ride it till something strikes you as wrong. alloy forks will offer you the most dramatic weight savings and handling benefits. i have an inkling that the bars are steel too so you'd probably benefit from swapping those out for something a bit lighter. better brake levers and cables wouldn't hurt but they're not bad at all for starting out with...

Edited by ogre
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@Levi / onza pro At the risk of lecturing, please read and understand what has taken me a long time to type out.

Avid SD7 brake levers are must for me, and recommend them to every noob with a cable brake I meet. You will release so much power from those BB5 brakes.

Those Onza levers in particular are flexey, a pretty horrid shape that hurts both the back of your index finger (nearest the thumb) on the front of the lever blade and your middle finger when the back of the rather square and sharp lever blade smacks into the middle knuckle. 

Above that they bend really easily - any fo force applied from leaning over/on them when doing endos etc will bend them downwards, or pulling them hard when you have the bike stood up on the back wheel/learning how to do this will bend them upwards and it doesn't take long for them to snap. SD7's are night and day levels of difference.

Top tip for when you get new levers: Never ever crank down on the bolt clamping brake levers, you want the lever tight enough it does not move whilst you are riding, but loose enough that if you bail it will rotate round the bar when smacked, you just undo the bolt a touch, put the lever back, tighten and carry on, instead of going home.

Changing the bars to some aluminium ones is advisable if they are the steel ones (check with a fridge magnet, the alu ones aren't a problem) as mine on the full build Zoot I bought, new from tartys, were heavy, uncomfortable, weak as piss and they bent in about the same time scale as the brake lever took to snap.

Get Trialtech foam grips. Absolutely essential. 

Those particular pedals aren't cut out for trials either, they snap, usually after a short space of time and pretty violently when they do go, and I have a half-healed crack in my right ankle that hurts every time it's cold out to prove it. Change them to some Wellgo MG-1's.

Take a look at what chain is on there; If it anything other than a KMC z710 kool, z610HX or z510HX get it off as fast as possible and put one of those on - the z510HX is my unquestionable recommendation. Take it from me, having your knee cartilage needlessly rearranged by the bolts clamping the stem to the fork or some wall inflicted dental work because your shit chain just snapped is something that you do not need in your life. 

Changing the forks would save a significant amount of weight but I'd hold off for a while.

Take heed from someone whose been doing this trials stuff half their life, and you'll have a cracking little bike to learn on and go to group rides with - A sorted well set up bike and a good attitude towards your riding and the people you end up riding with, and you'll be progressing and getting good in no time at all.

Edited by CC12345678910
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