paddyshepherd Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Just picked up a Marino 24 this weekend from Lucy at Indiprint. It's my first ever trials bike but had 24" park/dirt jump bikes before, a downhill bike and some trail bikes. Picked this up for when I can't get out on my trail bike through the week as I don't have a jump bike any more. Just need to learn how to ride trials now. Spec is as follows (all just copied from Lucy's ad, apart from the pedals) Frame set:Marino custom handmade steel frame (inspired fourplay geo) Fsa orbit head setInspired forks (with custom foot jam plate bit tatty looking but works Sooo well!) Trial tech stem 35x50 Inspired handle barsDrive: Truvativ hussefelt cranks and external bb. Inspired 4bolt bash Onza duel wheel tensioner with alloy jockeysFinishing kit:Green BMX chain (only choice at LBS at the time)Demolition Magnesium Pedals Éclat suede seat and mc Neil pivotal post. Brakes:Avid bb5 rear & bb7 front, on sd1 levers with a goodridge hose on the rear and Ashima front cables.Duel 180mm clean sweep rotorsWheels:Hope pro 2 evo hubs, team green. On inspired undrilled rims Sapim spokes. Maxxis holy roller tyres 2.4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkness Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Lovely ghetto one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dman Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Get that tensioner set up right, should be right up near chainstay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted July 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Lovely ghetto one. Yeah it's quite nice really. Been out on it tonight trying to get back into the swing of riding a little bike! Get that tensioner set up right, should be right up near chainstay. Yeah I thought that, but it seems to have run out of adjustment - does that just mean it's time to take some links out of the chain or am I doing something wrong? Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandadude Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Really nice, exactly the sort of thing i'm looking to build up! If you have ridden a 24 street/dj bike you shouldn't find it too hard to switch to this. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old boy chez Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Take some links out dude and check the mec and chain are all inline. Looks cool though enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJ. Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Just picked up a Marino 24 this weekend from Lucy at Indiprint. It's my first ever trials bike but had 24" park/dirt jump bikes before, a downhill bike and some trail bikes. Picked this up for when I can't get out on my trail bike through the week as I don't have a jump bike any more. Just need to learn how to ride trials now. Spec is as follows (all just copied from Lucy's ad, apart from the pedals)Frame set:Marino custom handmade steel frame (inspired fourplay geo) Fsa orbit head setInspired forks (with custom foot jam plate bit tatty looking but works Sooo well!) Trial tech stem 35x50 Inspired handle barsDrive: Truvativ hussefelt cranks and external bb. Inspired 4bolt bash Onza duel wheel tensioner with alloy jockeysFinishing kit:Green BMX chain (only choice at LBS at the time)Demolition Magnesium Pedals Éclat suede seat and mc Neil pivotal post. Brakes:Avid bb5 rear & bb7 front, on sd1 levers with a goodridge hose on the rear and Ashima front cables.Duel 180mm clean sweep rotorsWheels:Hope pro 2 evo hubs, team green. On inspired undrilled rims Sapim spokes. Maxxis holy roller tyres 2.4 Looking good! Don't suppose this is the same Paddy Shepherd from Billingham is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 You might be into the colour way but I think that build could look super nice if it was all matching with a less dull frame/in your face chain and grips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk24 Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 looks good, think the chain needs to be swapped out for a standard colour and the chain tensioner needs to go/ tightened up. one question I have is when people have marino's I often see people say fourplay geo or arcade geo but how on the money are marino for replicating the inspired geo does it ride exactly like the frame the geo is copied off or is it slightly off in some way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Looking good! Don't suppose this is the same Paddy Shepherd from Billingham is it? Now then! You might be into the colour way but I think that build could look super nice if it was all matching with a less dull frame/in your face chain and grips. The colour scheme will be changing. I only picked it up at the weekend and I'm considering a raw frame then most other bits black. Only thing I've done so far is change the pedals. looks good, think the chain needs to be swapped out for a standard colour and the chain tensioner needs to go/ tightened up. one question I have is when people have marino's I often see people say fourplay geo or arcade geo but how on the money are marino for replicating the inspired geo does it ride exactly like the frame the geo is copied off or is it slightly off in some way? Yeah I've got that to sort too. Its all on the list. Can't comment on if they ride the same as I've never rode a fourplay, but it rides nice. I think to some extent with inspired you're paying for the name. Edited July 28, 2015 by paddyshepherd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Got round to painting the frame, finally. Got that tensioner sorted too - although I think the spring is worn as I'm still getting the occasional bit of slap under tension. The frame has just been drying off after I finished the lacquer last night so will get it built tonight and throw up some photos. Still need to get the bright chain replaced though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Try taking a couple of links out and running the arm of the tensioner parallel with the chain stay (if the first jockey wheel doesn't hit the rear cog that is). I'm sure you'll sort it once the new chain is going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Try taking a couple of links out and running the arm of the tensioner parallel with the chain stay (if the first jockey wheel doesn't hit the rear cog that is). I'm sure you'll sort it once the new chain is going on. I was able to run it almost parallel. Basically the Onza tensioner has a little shim in it allowing it to rotate around the bolt. You use this if you're gonna rely on the locating pin sitting against the lip of the hanger (how it was sat in my first photo) however, if you take the shim out and move the locating pin past the lip on the hanger you can get it to sit wherever you like just off bolt tension, so that's how I ran it. Every so often the sprung part would still allow chain bounce against my frame. I discovered when I stripped the bike down for painting that the spring tension was adjustable, so planned on doing that when I built it back up. So last night I built the bike back up, and unfortunately the tensioner didn't go to plan. You are able to adjust the spring tension using the adjuster that also allows the alignment with the chain line, so I adjusted it and refitted the pinch bolt. On refitting the pinch bolt, however, the threads inside the tensioner ripped completely. The bolt wasn't even tight, it's only a 4mm allen bolt and wasn't even finger tight before they fell apart. I couldn't believe it. So the bike didn't get finished. I've ordered a fixed tensioner from Tarty's for now and a new chain which should come tomorrow. I went for fixed for a few reasons, but one of the main reasons being that having the two mounting points would help to reinforce the mech hanger, as I've noticed it's ridiculously weak! One tiny tap on the old tensioner was enough to bend the integrated, irreplaceable hanger. Having the fixed tensioner will cover the mech hanger and rely on the hub bolt as well, so hopefully it will give a bit more strength. The paintwork has went well but the pictures don't do the colour justice, nor do I think the lacquer has given much protection. I may redo it if it's bad. The paint is built up with a few different layers. I first used a filler primer in an attempt to fill minor dings, chips and dents in the frame after sanding the original paint back. This didn't go too well at all and was very thin in places, nor did it fill any of the affected areas. I then wet sanded and applied a white primer over the filler primer. Once this was dry the frame got a thorough coat of aptly named "AA Van Yellow" before a coat of Ford Signal Yellow over the top. Once this was done a coat of "Tropical Passion" from Kustom Canz went over the top; this is a flip paint and gives a green sparkle effect in some lights. Subtle, yet noticeable. I then applied a "good" covering of lacquer. I use the term "good" loosely, as it seems it hasn't given a thorough coating on the frame. However, it still looks a damn-site better than it was and if it doesn't last then it's only cost about £40 and I could easily do it again. Either that or I could get it done professionally, which I may do. ANYWAY, pictures: I'm aware in this photo it just looks like an inspired arcade colour scheme, the fact is that the photo doesn't show the green tinge. I'm also gonna do the forks at some point, but I've ran out of paint. This one maybe shows the green sparkle effect a bit better (makes the frame look different colours depending on light): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Much better, however...I'm praying those bars are just loose and slipped down, but the lever angle almost confirms my fears. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I'm new to trials, remember that please. The bars are like that from me first learning pedal kicks, rear wheel hops and so on - I was struggling staying on the back wheel so a friend suggested rolling them forwards for a while until I got used to it. I haven't rode the bike since building it back up so haven't had time to play about with it properly yet. I'm hoping now I'm more used to it I can move them back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 You'd probably be better off just lowering the stem rather than having bars like that, as that's a really high front end anyway. That's a pretty short responsive bike, but you're losing most of that having your bars upside down, it's a high bb too, if it feels hard to back hop then the front is probably just too high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 You'd probably be better off just lowering the stem rather than having bars like that, as that's a really high front end anyway. That's a pretty short responsive bike, but you're losing most of that having your bars upside down, it's a high bb too, if it feels hard to back hop then the front is probably just too high. I was under the impression that a higher front made hops easier? At least that's how it works on trail bikes anyway. Different for trials? I'll maybe flip one of the spacers to above the stem then. I can't have it too low though as I'm 6'2 and sometimes get back problems lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Actually if you get past the "sweet spot" it can actually become harder to lift the front up, try every height inbetween until it feels right. But yeah being quite tall you'll feel a bit cramped, especially with such a short stem, you're probably better off with a 90mm x 25 ish, you also wouldn't need the bars as far forward then as the stem would put your weight there instead. Also, you'd get more height options with loads of smaller spacers instead of 2 massive ones, as right now it looks like your only options are roughly 0mm, 20mm or 40mm. I'm 6ft and I have 35mm, but that's a different stem/frame etc so it's irrelevant really, but a mix of 5mm and 10mm spacers will allow much more adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 It's even more than that, there's the two 20's then like a 5mm too. I'll have a play once I can ride the bike. My new parts should be here tomorrow so just need to shorten the chain and faff about setting up the fixed tensioner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Oh and do the forks the same colour, that'd look great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddyshepherd Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Yeah I'm going to, I think it'll probably wait a bit though as a) I have no paint left, I wanna ride me bike! Haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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