weirdoku Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) Whether the billow leaks is still up to the build, not because it's a RTA it's less likely to leak. Anyone have any DIY flavour suggestions? Bored of the usual fruit/sweet flavours. Edited October 24, 2015 by weirdoku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 New lemon sherbet flavour is umm...eye opening?New tank time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I like a nice lemon sherbert from time to time.. refreshing why do you want a new tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) I'm using mylk original atm Edited October 25, 2015 by *gentlydoesit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) I want to mod my ademantium x mod so it has thumb screws on the bottom. I have to idea what screws to search for, or what material they should be made out of for best performance. Any ideas? Edited October 27, 2015 by JT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) Those might be ss304 m6×1.0 ×8 screws.. a thread gauge from a tap n die set would be more definitive though. Conductive wise you'd want copper or silver plated copper, which are not widely used in general industry. Finding anything better than you have may be a stretch but just generic steel thumb screws might be easy enough. You will get used to the pia battery change though Edited October 27, 2015 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 PIA?Is there anyway I can find out for sure so I can find some thumb screws? Or could there be a way to attach something to the end of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) http://search.newport.com/?x1=sku&q1=MPH-STS Best looking thumb screw I can find, although the specs aren't there I'm sure it's the right thread in copper Edited October 27, 2015 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Pain in ass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 May I should just find something to superglue on the end... the threads on that don't look the same at all, and looks way to short. Also two of those screws would cost about half the cost of the entire mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) .. but they look nice You could try bonding somthing on I guess Edited October 27, 2015 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 fancying buying a goblin mini rta from ud,opinions?like it for its dripper-like airflow and look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) @FamilyBikerDripper like air flow? They're nice, maybe a little low on juice volume, tighter than I'd personally like for air flow, and made almost entirely of glass so dropping it is always a concern, but nice I had one for a few days, it worked well and had good flavour, never leaked on me either. Building it was simple enough but little room for anything exciting coil wise. Not much similar to chose from.. billow v2 nano maybe. Edited October 28, 2015 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) seeing the airhole size i thought that.the veritas i am using full on since months has a prettyy tight draw compared to high wattage compatible atties too,and as i stay in the 20-25 watt range i think a little restrictive draw would be ok.got little boys n stuff,theyre too airy for my likingalso thought about dropping it.if it had both a glass tank and a steel tank section included for the 4.2ml option it'd be a winner Edited October 29, 2015 by FamilyBiker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) also thought about dropping it.if it had both a glass tank and a steel tank section included for the 4.2ml option it'd be a winner yeah, but if you're going for higher capacity why not get a better atty? Only reason for the goblin mini is its size surely. Edited October 29, 2015 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GyTrials Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 I have had a go at building my subtank rba deck today, coil is the one that comes supplied and reads at 0.5 ohm. However I can't seem to use it at more than 18w vapour is really hot and I'm getting dry hits from anything above 4 second draw, anyone know why this is happening? With the 0.5ohm occ coils I can use it at 25w easily without it getting warm in the slightest.any help would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 We really need a pic bud. I have a few ideas but seeing is believing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Of all the parodies, you chose the most boring and Un funny to post here?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GyTrials Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 We really need a pic bud. I have a few ideas but seeing is believing Seems to carry on powering for a split second after I let go of the button also (istick 50w) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) OK. Firstly it's massively over wicked, if you have any cotton left try rolling it into a pen shape then pulling it apart from the ends. Over lap the ends and do it again a few times. This will 'straighten' the individual strands, straighter they are the quicker the juice will capillary to the coil. Make sure the wick is just resting in the juice channels not pushed in or pinched tight by the threads and not too tight in the coil.Secondly I noticed that the coil is quite black. Considering it went in earlier it's a little too black. Once you've taken out the cotton dry fire the coil at full power and look for any hot spots or Uneven coil loops. The coil should be ~3mm above the airflow so the juice has little vertical travel to get to the coil.And as silly as it sounds make sure the screws are tight.. you can get a hot spot at the post if they're loose, which can happen from just thermal expantion, even if you set them tight in the first place.Most new coil builds taste of cotton for the first few minutes..Any juice over 70/30 will wick slower Edited October 29, 2015 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GyTrials Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 This has the new rba doesn't have the channels it has the holes in the side similar to the stock coils. When I built it I dry fired and used tweezers on the coil until it was hearing evenly, maybe I have compressed the coil too much? I will re wick again tonight and rotate the spring so it doesn't sit above the posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) I didn't realise they'd changed the deck format Same rules apply though . I don't think you can over compress a coil, unless you've squeezed a loop out of line with the others. Whack your coil jig/drill bit down to check.What size is the coil wrapped round? 2.3-2.5mm? Might pay you to try a 2.8 or 3mm if you've got more kanthal.Side holes is just asking for a chimney build Edited October 29, 2015 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weirdoku Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 I have that subtank too. Definitely too much wick in there, the juice doesn't flow as quick as it needs at higher watts so you'll get dry hits.If you want to pull at higher watts you need to wick the cotton as straight as possible from draw hole to draw hole, and not densely twisted cotton either. Here's mine. I can pull up to about 40 watts, I get dry hits above that but I am using 100% VG liquid which isn't very watery. That's a 2mm diameter coil, 0.35mm kanthal @ 0.5ohm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GyTrials Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Which way round do you have your coil? Above post or below. I removed some cotton and have tried to do it as straight as possible but still can't go above 18w with 50/50 liquid going to try and clean up the coil as suggested and use new cotton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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