Matt1973 Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hi. Ok so I have wanted to get riding trials for ages, and have been bouncing around on my hardtail bike for years. I'm 41, about 12st and 6ft. Been riding MTB for well over 20yrs - never gone full sus and love the feel of a good quality rigid bike. I'm looking to buy a 2nd hand trials bike, and would benefit from some experienced advice and info. Having played around on my hardtail with the seat removed, I'm confident that 'no seat' is the way I want to go, but thats where it ends really. I'm not sure whether to go 20, 24 or 26. Obviously used to riding 26, but wonder if I'd benefit from a smaller wheel especially to start with. My budget will be restrictive for sure at around £300/350, but seen plenty of bike on eBay for around that price. Please help any way you see fit. CHEERS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kallio Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hey welcome to trials man 26" would be the best option to go for based on your riding background but, you have to bear in mind the radical geometries of pure trials frames if you're dead set on one. The cockpit will feel more compact but higher than what you're used to so the higher BB frames (e.g. +70mm) will feel really odd to ride coming off a MTB background - as they're better suited doing moves on one wheel than two. But for any rolling moves like manuals and bunnies, it will feel shit. Have you considered the Inspired Hex? The geometry is much better balanced than pure trials frames, allowing you to do a lot more than just rear wheel and static moves. If you're leaning towards a streetier style with bunnyhops and manuals being part of your moveset then definitely look into the Hex. Much stronger than today's pure trials frames, and can do pure trials moves very well. Probably the best bike to start out on now if you want to explore what style of trials you want to get good at since its geometry allows it to ride well as both a big BMX and trials bike. Take a look through the For Sale section of the forum, you'll find something good within your budget. Starting out on an older frame with lower BB can be better for the long term as it forces you to learn proper bike handling and control, and then you'd feel the benefits way more when you eventually move onto higher BB frames. If you find a bike you like, post it up and I'm sure other members of the forum will give you their pointers and advice on what's a good deal and what's good to learn on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clownbike Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hey bud, I just so happen to have two 26" full builds (well almost full builds! ) with a slightly older style of geometry, but still modern enough to feel "trialsy". Both bikes are more durable than the newer style bikes and would be an excellent 1st bike. There are a number of pictures and spec in my topic "Neil's Big Sale" in the F/S section. I'm more than happy to have a chat if you're interested…or just if you need a chat from one of the elder members of the forum about "stuff". Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 In relation to the post above the Speedrace he's selling wouldn't be too bad for a beginner if you definitely want to go seatless. The geometry isn't overly extreme with a pretty mid range BB height and they ride really nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dk2 Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Hi welcome to the sport, 41 is the perfect age...i think 26" would be best given you background... The Hex is an excellent suggestion. Love rideing mine, but are on the arcade now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandabs Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 I'd go 26", I started trials last year at the spritely age of 42. You'll do fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazza1414 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Being an older rider as well I would definately recommend a Hex. Being used to riding 26" bikes from years ago (back when you couldn't get hold of 26" trials frames) I can get on with the hex a lot easier. More like a standard mountain bike geo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lifes-a-trial Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 Stock would probably be best, reasons being familiarity of wheel size and also not looking/feeling like a young un when out riding.that's the way I felt anyways, and I'm just on wrong side of 45.Grrrrr! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt1973 Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Finally bought my bike. However after having my car fixed, my budget was somewhat reduced!! So Ive bought a pretty tidy looking MAD Phase 1. From what I've read it can make a pretty good starter bike, and with a few upgrades could potentially last me a while. Anyone had one of these? How do I convert to single speed? Thanks, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) I'd use this (the tab in knuckle bit may need removing) and add this as its the cheapest one stop set up I can think of. Assuming you will be using the standard cranks and 22t sprocket, (Pics of your exact bike would be helpful) buy either the 18t (i'd consider this the 'norm' when converting a phase) or a 17t. Either way buy the tensioner in long arm version. If you value your knee cartilage/gonads/teeth, buy a good chain too. My personal rule is that if a chain don't say KMC on it, then it isn't going on my bike. As such I'd stress buying either this/this (In 1/8 form it is the same thing) This is what i've been running for waaay longer than I should of. The 510HX is the better of the 3 because 710's can stretch so much. Just a heads up that the tensioner may require the fitment of two washers between the jockey wheels and the chain cage. Simply remove the cage nearmost in this picture, put in a 2.5mm-ish washer on both the shaft and bolt then whack it back together. Hope all that lot helps and sorry if it were a bit 'painting by numbers' for you - I don't intend to patronise. Ciaran Edited September 12, 2014 by CC12345678910 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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