bing Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Echo steel crank bolts come with those steel washers, might be worth ringing tartys and see what the crack is with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 (edited) Echo steel crank bolts come with those steel washers, might be worth ringing tartys and see what the crack is with them I've tried an echo bolt with a washer and it ends up the same. Oh well if it doesn't effect the performance i'll just leave it as it is. Edited August 14, 2014 by ClarkeHutchison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack dickinson Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 That's weird, i have the same cranks and crank bolts (echo sl) and mine sit flush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusevelt Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Pity you didn't change the colour of the Rockman to something unique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Gibbs Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Anno Lime green isn't unique then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) Anno Lime green isn't unique then? That's what i was thinking I'm really tempted to spray it dark blue at some point. Edited August 16, 2014 by ClarkeHutchison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Also i have had some problems with the person selling me the wheels , They should be here by Tuesday now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 If you take any spacers off the head tube, make sure its the echo one. The different thicknesses of the spacers looks crap. Also, whats that you've got on the chain stays? No need, get them off. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 If you take any spacers off the head tube, make sure its the echo one. The different thicknesses of the spacers looks crap. Also, whats that you've got on the chain stays? No need, get them off. Yeh I will, It's some taped up chain stay protectors, I will be leaving them on to protect agaisnt scrapes/dents. I know it doesn't look good, but if I ever sell the bike on it will be worth more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I haven't updated this thread in a while mainly due to work, but also due to an ongoing dispute with Gary Sanderson over a set of wheels. I have since decided to buy hubs/rims separate and build up some wheels myself. A set of new Echo TR hubs i bought from Neil Tunnicliffe arrived today, I got the set with a free echo sprocket for £45. I highly recommend him as a seller (very quick postage). I will first of all be running dual magura's, but i didn't mind having a front disc hub just in case i felt like a change at some point. Can someone tell me if it is a bad idea to use a disc hub and run a magura. The only problem I can think of is that it will be more difficult to lace the wheel. Does it effect strength at all? I also have some titanium axle bolts I also got a bit bored waiting for parts so i decided to cut some nobbles off my tyres, mainly because I was curious on how much weight it actually saves and how it effects the grip. I just used a steak knife and it seemed to work OK once i got the hang of it, a bit messy though. Mountain King 2.2 I got a bit carried away and cut every second top nobble as well Der Kaiser 2.5 Mountain King 2.2 W/Nobbles- 550g W/O Nobbles- 430g Der Kaiser 2.5 W/Nobbles- 1360g W/O Nobbles- 1210g Total weight saved = 270g (probably not worth it ). I will update again when i start building my wheels up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Shouldn't make too much difference, it'll still be a strong wheel if done right. I ran a wheel like this for years and it was fine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disc.Jokie. Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 a saint m810 would finish this bike off nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) Well 2 months after paying Gary Sanderson for a wheel that failed to arrive and he has still failed to refund me, i bought a front wheel from Chris H on here, which arrived within a few days, great member and great price for the wheel. (If anyone is wanting an echo TR front disc hub, New condition, let me know) It's a Trialtech Sport Light rim built on a prototype trialtech hub (think it's the sport lite hub). New condition, 890g. I quite liked the blue rim tape, but I decided on white for now. Titanium Bolts with Echo SL axle washer. I am going for silver front+Rear Trialtech sport light rims because I have heard good things about them and I have always trusted Trialtech with quality parts. They are lightweight, look good (with a grind compared to black rims) and also should hold grinds well. Setting brake: Perfect Just waiting on Rear rim, Spokes and nipples from Tarty so i can build it up onto my Echo TR hub. Also when your building up a wheel do you put grease on each individual nipple or is this not needed? Edited September 18, 2014 by ClarkeHutchison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Nice progress. And yes to your question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Gibbs Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Looks awesome! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Thanks for comments, it's taking me a fair time to build it due to work, football commitments and the Gary Sanderson dispute. I can't wait to get out riding on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disc.Jokie. Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 why did you change the adm's on the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 why did you change the adm's on the back? The ADMs were always for the rear brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disc.Jokie. Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 The ADMs were always for the rear brake. sorry i got confused and thought the most recent pictures were of the rear brake :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niconj Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Also when your building up a wheel do you put grease on each individual nipple or is this not needed? Get the Sapim Polyax nipples (brass or alloy) and you don't need any oil, grease or whatsoever. Due to their coating they turn very smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Also when your building up a wheel do you put grease on each individual nipple or is this not needed? Are you referring to lubing up the thread to help stop spoke twist? If so yes. I tend to put a small bit of grease on the spoke thread, helps the thread run freely to stop it binding and twisting the nipple. The nipples NiconJ is referring to don't claim to anything more than help align the nipple and the spoke thread by having a more rounded "ball joint" profile to the nipple. No manufacturer claims about slippery coatings or such. Can see some merit in those nipples, but never heard of anyone using grease or lube to aid the seating of the spoke or nipple heads. De-stressing the wheel properly after you first true and tension it should do the same thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Thanks for the comments, wheel has been built using grease on threads as suggested and got it about 95% true Pictures to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 (edited) Another delivery, this time a box from tarty. Inside: Trialtech sport light rear rim to match front, Sapim Race spokes, Spoke tensioner (found out it didn't fit nipples very well) and VIZ alloy nipples in blue. I am building the rim onto my echo TR hub which I bought from Neil Tunnicliffe (great seller). I used the lacing pattern 3 cross and just used a standard flat head screwdriver, it was a smull stumpy one and worked really well. I painted one side of screwdriver white so I could count how many turns i put on each nipple, so to reduce the chance of a buckle when finished. Process: First spokes in driveside Driveside finished Followed the same pattern for the non-drive side. Complete but not tensioned. At this point I put grease on each spokes thread, was easier than applying at the start and less messy. With tube/Der Kaiser (Spokes look a bit twisted there but pulled straight after some more tension). Rear and front wheel complete. I'm happy with the silver rims, but at some point i will get some black spoke and blue nipples for the front. Sorry for the poor quality picture it was chucking it down. I don't have a trueing stand so I have my own weird way of doing it. I held the yellow crayon (from a repair kit) tight agaisnt the brake booster and then spun the wheel quickly, It then leaves a mark on the tyre where the buckles are (i really should of held it agaisnt the rim to get it more accurate, but it worked well anyway). In this case i loosened the spokes around the yellow mark and now my wheel is about 95% true,(I can never get it perfect). Chainline is also spot on I will get more pictures up tommorow of bike fully built after i get brakes set and other small fix ups are finished. I've got another question for members on here, My front wheel does not spin smoothly. My front hub uses small washers inside the forks and agaisnt the hub, they have a small lip around the centre hole. Off the bike the wheel spins very freely and smooth, but when i tighten the wheel on the forks, the wheel is very stiff. I thought it was the washer squezed up agaisnt the edge of the hub preventing it from turning smoothly. I tried putting a small washer inbetween (see picture) so it wasn't touching hub but it's still just as stiff as before. Maybe my bearings are knackered, but they are almost new. Does anyone have any idea of whats going on and how i could fix it? Edited September 23, 2014 by ClarkeHutchison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disc.Jokie. Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 please, please dont grind the rims Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Axle could be very slightly bent dude, it only has to be microns out due to the tolerances involved with bearing. Either that or the bearing isn't seated in the hub body properly, and may need a light crack with a socket and a dead blow hammer to seat it properly. That's how I do mine, never failed me yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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