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Bent Dropout - fixable? + how to remove wheel?


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Hey everyone,

I was hoping I might be able to get some help / advice... Turns out my bike decided to combust today!

My rear rim decided to bend after a few missed gap attempts, no massive deal... I'll replace the rim. Problem is, removing the wheel I discovered that my dropout (driveside) is bent from a missed sidehop attempt! So I have 2 questions:

1) how the hell do I remove the rear wheel when one of the dropouts is closing in on the axle?

2) Is there a way of bending the dropout back? Or is it terminal?

Would appreciate any input! Apologies if this has come up before, tried searching, but couldn't find anything.

Thanks

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Hey guys,
thanks for the help so far! The good news is the wheel finally came out with enough wiggling. As for the dropout, do you think this would bent back?
20140709_012742.jpg
If it doesn't bend back, would filing it down work? Please let me know your thoughts!
Thanks
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If your hub is female I would just take the axle bolt out, align the hub where it would normally sit and put the bolt back through.
Given that you haven't f**ked the threads pulling it out.



Looks like the bent bit is still parallel with the top half?

(adjustable might not fit) I would give putting something like an allen key where the axle sits and try pulling or hitting it back through towards the rear.

ghAlJjS.jpg

Just be really careful as metal doesn't like to bend one way and go back to its original place. Look out for cracking or splitting on the inward angle where the bend starts as you pull it out.

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Just file it, hacksaw it or angle grind it til it's parallel with the top one.

Bending it would be more likely to cause it to crack or even snap and could take the entire bottom half of the dropouts and you don't want that...

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I'm not sure but would a mix of both solutions be best? Bend it back a bit and file the rest? And I imagine you'll have to push the wrench in the opposite direction, clockwise instead of counter. Pushing against the top of the dropout opening. You'd leave the wrench wide open of course. Does that make sense?

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I'm not sure but would a mix of both solutions be best? Bend it back a bit and file the rest? And I imagine you'll have to push the wrench in the opposite direction, clockwise instead of counter. Pushing against the top of the dropout opening. You'd leave the wrench wide open of course. Does that make sense?

Leverage as per the pic imo dude (Y) you'd only wanna grab the bent bit rather than put load across all of that section. Or the Jake safety route, or whatever works :) Edited by *gentlydoesit
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hey,

cheers very much for the advice guys! Had a little pull with a pair of pliers earlier (adjustable didn't fit) but it didn't seem to want to budge at all! Might end up taking it to a local bike shop and see if they have any luck. Otherwise I might take the 'Jake-route' and file / grind it down until parallel, but my only worry with that would be that I might lose to much dropout! To work it down until parralel would make it into a sharp point, and there might not be enough material to hold the wheel in when further back in the dropout.

Cheers for the advice guys, hopefully this is salvageable! Could do without buying a new frame!

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DON'T bend it back to the original position. You'll crack the dropout at the bend if you apply force correctly, or at the tensioning screw if you apply it incorrectly.

Like Adam pointed out, you might want to start by bending it back slightly. Then use an angle grinder if you're good with one or a file if you're not to bring the dropouts back to 10mm.

Edited by Greetings
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