AdamR28 Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 It's because people want light stuff, but aren't willing to ride accordingly or pay the extra money for it to have been tested / designed well enough to be as strong as the heavier stuff... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 I really do love the geo, its the only modern frame of its kind. Amen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) It's because people want light stuff, but aren't willing to ride accordingly or pay the extra money for it to have been tested / designed well enough to be as strong as the heavier stuff... I want light and strong stuff. And I'm willing to pay the extra money for it to have been tested / designed well enough to be as strong as the heavier stuff. Its the only way I do and it applies to everything. I've been the cheap skate and spent more money in the end. I'm an architect of sorts myself (coder/designer) but I know what it takes to make quality. And I struggle to explain to clients why time is always the factor that makes the difference. So in turn I appreciate things done with passion because it always shows. Thats doesn't mean mistakes aren't made but it does mean the those mistakes are handled with the same passion. And thats worth my money. Edited July 4, 2014 by iTrialer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Sorry - I guess my statement was a bit of a generalisation. It wasn't aimed at anyone in particular, especially not you looking at the attention to detail in your build, but the 'bulk' of trials riders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Sorry - I guess my statement was a bit of a generalisation. It wasn't aimed at anyone in particular, especially not you looking at the attention to detail in your build, but the 'bulk' of trials riders. Believe me I didn't take it personally 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paperclip Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMaPTZdwjPE Totally related. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bionic Balls Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Ally is a bit like that, you really only penetrate one side. Imagine two layers of cling film with water in the middle to be the composition of the metal, you can only weld through the first layer into the water. If you go through both sides the water leaks out. In ally that means a big hole :/ Ally weld is prone to shrink cracking, and the crack can be incredibly fine. Could be responsible for the sound?? It may be tricky but that doesn't mean it's OK not to get fusion all the way through! It looked like you had to give it a reet decent twist before any "tick" so if there is a crack, it must be pretty small..i.e. it's unlikely to completely fall apart just yet. Why not just ride it until it's gotten a bit worse- you might be able to find it then and prove it is a warranty problem..? Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 When its built up the sound is easier to make just by track standing and leaning the bike to the left and right. How does such a thing get worse? Does it tick louder? I've even heard such frame tick sounds can disappear. But I imagine that would be a bad sign in the case of a crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Just a guess but could you try putting oil on the inside of the bb a bit at a time till the creak stops, and when it stops the bit you oiled is the creaky join ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 You will struggle to find the crack if it's under your power coat paint. Might be better to remove it around the bb area ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Just a guess but could you try putting oil on the inside of the bb a bit at a time till the creak stops, and when it stops the bit you oiled is the creaky join ? I actually thought about that. You will struggle to find the crack if it's under your power coat paint. Might be better to remove it around the bb area ? For now I'll just wait for a reply from Ozonys and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 I was bored so I tried a sound analysis using an iPhone app. Put the mic on different parts of the frame. I've since built the bike back up. You only need to push on the rear wheel from the side with one finger to make it tick. Started at the down tube next to the bb. Right chain stay next to bb. Here it seem the overall frequencies are the loudest. Right seat stay next to bb. Left chain stay next to bb. Left seat stay next to bb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 (edited) All in one image maybe easier to see. Down tube next to the bb. Right chain stay next to bb. Right seat stay next to bb. Left chain stay next to bb. Left seat stay next to bb. Edited July 6, 2014 by ericbenjaminjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Way too much time on your hands 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 (edited) LOL Not really, that would be nice though. This took about 20 minutes all together. I usually ride about this time on the weekend Edited July 6, 2014 by ericbenjaminjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Its been over a week and still not a single word from Ozonys. I even called and no answer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsalot Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Sorry if this has been covered but was it making the noise before it was powder coated? If not then the heat of baking might of made a weak weld fail maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericbenjaminjr Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) I didn't build the bike up before I got it coated. I was having problems with the left crank that was making noises before. It wasn't till I fixed that that I was able to even hear the frame tick. A frame that would crack from a powder coating oven shouldn't even be ridden. Especially not trials. It was done by a company that is the best I could find. An industrial powder coater with a separate department for bikes and a specialist that knows bikes well. They also handle all the powder coating for many bike manufacturers including pedalpower.de, the maker of tandem and heavy load transport bikes. Bikes go through a different process there and are baked longer at a lower temp. I've done many parts with them without problems. Edited July 11, 2014 by ericbenjaminjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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