Freethoughtpolice Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 I notice in the gallery section the first picture shows a wheel rim that somebody appears to have taken an angle grinder to. Would this be a good idea as a first step towards improving my back brake and then maybe going for the more expensive Magura HS33 conversion? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_rim_grinding/m2.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsMatt Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 find some tar and paint the rim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callum219 Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Grease normally works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ Leigh Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) if grease works then im bloody scared for you man! Edited June 13, 2014 by JJ Leigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack dickinson Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 heatsink yellows a smooth rim and tar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dngr2self Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Violin wax instead of tar and a light grind. Any decent pads with that combo and a good bleed and you're in business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 kolophonium for contrabass´s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freethoughtpolice Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Got the grinder on to them, worked a treat, managed 15 hops. It's amazing how much years of copious beer and whisky drinking can screw your fitness. Posted vid on youtube: learning to back hop. Here chunky gralloch,, Any tips welcome in comments Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack dickinson Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 try moving your bars forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freethoughtpolice Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 I'll try that tomorrow Cheers dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexClare94 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 heatsink yellows a smooth rim and tar I notice in the gallery section the first picture shows a wheel rim that somebody appears to have taken an angle grinder to. Would this be a good idea as a first step towards improving my back brake and then maybe going for the more expensive Magura HS33 conversion? Cheers If you've got a nice white rim don't ruin it with tar fgs, get a grinder on it but do a medium sharp grind if you can, and any of the Heatsink pads will work excellent in dry weather and also will be just as good in the wet. Saves you using tar mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waybe2014 Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 Glad to see I'm not the only person at this stage in my trials riding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOMTRIALS123 Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 find some tar and paint the rim That's good in dry conditions but I wouldn't trust it in the wet :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stirlingpowers Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 (edited) And now for something completely different: Serious advice. - Tarty tutorial video on grinding, remember to re-grind when surface gets dull - usually and without sandy/dusty conditions, every few weeks or so. And this tutorial: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176715-how-to-grind-a-rim/ - Parallel brake pads adjustment, see http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176741-how-to-setup-hydraulic-rim-brakes/ http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/177318-how-to-face-magura-mounts-do-this-before-rim-brake-setup/ - No air in the hydraulic system: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176712-how-to-bleed-a-pre-2011-hydraulic-rim-brake/ http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176760-2011-hs11-hs33-bleed-information/ Stopping the wheel while rotating in the air with a light push of the brake lever should result in a very, very short squeal and the very important "clunk" sound coming from the immediate stop of the wheel. When rolling at slow speed, a well set up brake will bite aggressively, stopping the bike underneath you immediately with a short, loud squealing sound. You are aiming for this: Material and advanced stuff: - Good brake booster (my favourites for hydraulics are Jitsie 4-point if rich or 2-point Magura Evo2), alu brake pad backings will help as well. - A rim with parallel sidewalls is often the difference between an awful and a dream brake. - If you have a parallel-type rim, you could buy aftermarket brake clamps for hydraulic brakes, which do not have the o-ring for angular adjustment, but instead rely on parallel rim sidewalls. Fewer degrees of freedom in brake pad angles will make adjustment easier. Examples are TNN or Jitsie, but not Echo SL clamps. - Water bleeding the hydraulic brake makes for a quicker response and usually doesn't wreck the sealing, some antifreeze for harsh winter conditions is recommended. - 2014 HS33 is your value for money choice for the main brake components. If rich, you could upgrade to Racing Line or even Clean brake levers, for the stylez. The most robust levers are 2003 model year Magura HS33 and also 2005 ones. To the latter, one can fit Magura or Racing Line four-finger levers for more braking force. - Then, there is still the combination of brake pad and rim material. Echo rims and Heatsink yellow pads, I think, are one example of a good match, or TryAll K2 rims and Coustellier or Croco pads another (please correct me on this if I am wrong, I run a rather exotic 24 combination). In the above video, TNN ADM (which I could not get to work with angled Bonz rear rims, but they are the cat's ass on Bonz front and Because rear) and Rockman rims are used. - Tar or violin wax/resin is for immediate help in the field, I've seen brakes performing under all conditions faultlessly without that stuff for weeks. Edited July 1, 2014 by stirlingpowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otacon Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 If you've got a nice white rim don't ruin it with tar fgs, get a grinder on it but do a medium sharp grind if you can, and any of the Heatsink pads will work excellent in dry weather and also will be just as good in the wet. Saves you using tar mate Heatsink yellows on a grind...really ? he'll have no pads in about a month... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Heatsink yellows on a grind...really ? he'll have no pads in about a month... I ran heatsink yellows for ages on a harsh grind. Lasted me just fine. Those or cousts for the win 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack dickinson Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Also before you geind it, soak a sock with fizzy pop. Then wipe it on the rim. Im being serious i used to do it before i jad acces to tar and plus it doesnt make your rim look bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dngr2self Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 VIOLIN WAX. All day long. You can get it off ebay or your local music shop for a few quid and its better than tar. I urge everyone that like a brutal brake to try it. It is the future. Its not as nasty as tar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonrat Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 ^^ Search for violin rosin... It's dead cheap too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Heatsink yellows on a grind...really ? he'll have no pads in about a month... You haven't been in the game for a while have you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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