dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Right, basically every time i'm out I have a debate with my riding mate. I think that when you set up your snail cams, to tighten them, you push them down towards the ground as per the tartybikes video But he's telling me that you should push them upwards ? I'm confused to f**k and don't know which way to do them. Which way is it? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onzatpro09 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I'd say down... even on my trials moto you push them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 it depends, how did you set your snail cams? The reason why snailcams works is because they look like a snail. if you would measure it, the distance is growing from the centre. So you can do 2 things: 1. see which way your snail cam gets... fatter, and turn that way. 2. turn one way fully, if it completely loose, then it is the other way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 up stops damage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Damage to what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) I f**king hate them so much. Kept side hopping yesterday and landing on them and it knocking my wheel out of alignment in the frame :/ Edited March 20, 2014 by dann2707 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Damage to what? my arseif you press them up they don't stick under the frame and are less likely to be knocked I believe Not used cams for years though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I think a 10mm cam is going to be a challenge, make sure it's flaccid before you try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Is there any way I can tension my chain without using a spoke tensioner or cams? I love this frame so SO much but the cams are a nightmare! edit - sorry don't know why i'm swearing so much lol Edited March 20, 2014 by dann2707 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I f**king hate them so much. Kept side hopping yesterday and landing on them and it knocking my wheel out of alignment in the frame :/ you need the gentlydoesit not snail cam thingies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Did you ever end up making them Mike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niconj Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) up stops damage I disagree. I put my snail cam in that way and on the first failed sidehop it was bent. I turned the new ones around and now I push down so that the tail of the cam is still above the chain stay. Anyways, if we're only talking about tightening the chain, either way is good. Edited March 20, 2014 by niconj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Nope, no one asked for a set so I didn't bother. Wana be my guinea pig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsalot Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Pull your wheel back by hand so the chain is adequately tight,not so tight your freewheel is going to die. Measure the gap between the axle and front of the dropout. Now find something to place into it. For example if I use a presta valve lockring, my chain is just right and I've still got cams on just incase. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Nope, no one asked for a set so I didn't bother. Wana be my guinea pig? Sure! Shall I post a pic of my set up / dropout so you can see? My cam bolt that protrudes is an m5 bolt, but not the head, the threaded part I was just about to have a play on solidworks to see how it would look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Sure! Shall I post a pic of my set up / dropout so you can see? My cam bolt that protrudes is an m5 bolt, but not the head, the threaded part I was just about to have a play on solidworks to see how it would look.having an eyeball would be good, need the centre to centers and the od of both axle and bolt to knock you somthing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Would something like this work? Hope it kind of makes sense literally just mocked something up in 3 mins haha Obviously the gap from the small hole to the big hole depicts the amount of adjustment, more holes around that centre point = more adjustment! And here are the pics of the bike Edited March 20, 2014 by dann2707 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 The biggest issue i'm looking at here whilst trying to design something is getting ultra fine adjustments per hole! Which is obviously the positive to snailcams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 The holes you drill in it could overlap though. The resolution still wouldn't be as good as a micronotched cam, but it'd be better than doing it like that. Also, assuming the big hole is your axle hole, you'd actually start to lose tension as you go further round the holes in that cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Definitely! Cheers for the heads up. I know about the tension getting slacker but the point was more like, having more holes = more adjustment not going around for further tightness if that makes sense? Funny you mention the overlapping thing, just been trying to try something like that! but not on a snailcam looking thing, more of a rectangular shape. I am definitely not a designer btw just a kid with a copy of SW haha What's your design Gently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Works i guess, the lever bit (for lack of a better description) would end up low in one direction though. What mark said about overlaps (like pipe pliers have) would work. I have another design but I can't make it. I'll look see of I can find a pic *hadnt seen your post* Mine is just two holes, in the right place. Haha And this one.. when I find it Edited March 20, 2014 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Aye! Was also thinking if each hole was also tapped for the m5 thread would also increase stability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Seems like you're making a BIG issue out of something that should be small. I use a jaf cam on the drive side. I push it up to tension. On the non-drive side I use a rockman snailcam and push it down to tension. Dunno why it's set up this way I just chucked them on lol. what I do is tension the drive side one until chain is at a tension I'm happy with, then tension non-drive side until the rim is in a position vs brake pads I'm happy with. Tighten wheels up equally on both sides preferably an allen key on both, if not then do drive side until it starts to get stiff, then do the non-drive then nip the drive side up then non-drive side if that makes sense? Never had any problems. Takes me about 15 seconds to line my wheels up, I actually prefer it over the onza/echo integrated tensioners. Also, with that snail cam you designed, I don't think it'll work very well, it needs to look more like a snail. rather than a circle with an off-placed axle hole and a bit sticking out. Also, the jaf-cam has tiny tiny notches which are perfect. The rockman one had big notches which would almost fit the bolt it's pushing off. So I filed it down to almost flat, works much nicer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) I don't posess your technology, but I doodled this a while back, hope it makes sence. It was meant to be internal, but it would work on the outside of the dropout too Edited March 20, 2014 by *gentlydoesit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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