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Wd40 bleed help


*gentlydoesit

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So I'm trying to bleed an echo tr lever, splitter, maggie slaves using wd in a car orienrated pressure pot...

Its not working!

I heated the wd up after I sprayed it into the pot and left it over night to degas, there's no bubbles if I shake it or anything like that, but once its bled and tightened its like there's air/gas in there?! The pistons in the slaves only come out half way with the tps wound all the way in. No air can get in while the pot is pressurised so where am I going wrong?

Any help appreciated. Cheers

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So I'm trying to bleed an echo tr lever, splitter, maggie slaves using wd in a car orienrated pressure pot...

Its not working!

I heated the wd up after I sprayed it into the pot and left it over night to degas, there's no bubbles if I shake it or anything like that, but once its bled and tightened its like there's air/gas in there?! The pistons in the slaves only come out half way with the tps wound all the way in. No air can get in while the pot is pressurised so where am I going wrong?

Any help appreciated. Cheers

Theres your issue unless you got your words mixed up? TPA wants to be wound all the way out not in.

I've also read countless times on here that wd doesn't work and just gets past the seals though?

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Ah, now I wasn't going to use it but I've read loads that it does work :S think I saw it last in drstix's fanny lube thread, and a few others that I've forgotten.

Yeah, I wound it in after I tightened the bleeds, I was hoping that'd be enough to get the pistons out, but not the case :(

Poorly worded first post to be fair, should of said

Just bleed it with water and anti freeze or mineral oil.

I could do that with the rear that I'm attempting atm, but the front slaves are echo and they don't like a water bleed I've been told. I thought I'd put the same fluid in both front and rear, as I had a few tins of wd kicking around and no mineral oil I went for that.
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Its a fair call, I was just rushing things along and dont have any oil.

Though I'm not sure if it was the content or the technique that failed

I used this, it works perfect on car/motorbike brakes, clutches ect. It can also vacuum, so I could suck the fluid up

20140312_213809_zpsf30dbde9.jpg

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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What Adam said. Also, the positioning of slave cylinders is very important. Placing them in a bucket will not give you a good bleed unless you're lucky.

Shoddy paint image:

http://imgur.com/axyaiRX

Carefully put them into a vice and use a syringe, not a pressure bleed. High pressure will not get the air out, you want to fill the brake up slowly so the air has a chance to escape.

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What Adam said. Also, the positioning of slave cylinders is very important. Placing them in a bucket will not give you a good bleed unless you're lucky.

Shoddy paint image:

http://imgur.com/axyaiRX

Carefully put them into a vice and use a syringe, not a pressure bleed. High pressure will not get the air out, you want to fill the brake up slowly so the air has a chance to escape.

:D it was a bit hit n miss trying to get the slaves vertical, they rested about 20º off the vertical in the end, bleeds were uppermost though. Vice it is then.

I've never had a problem with air on a car, but then I guess brake fluid is thicker and less likley to cavitate

Ideally, yes. Same reason you should avoid inverted 'loops' when fitting hard brake lines to a car.

hate inverters :P

Makes sense bud, I'll have another go tonight. If that fails syringe it is

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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