Thebigjam101 Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Sup guys! Just a few questions as I'm new to the world of magura- I'm used to dual discs. Here's what I know: how to adjust, bite adjustment and general arrangement. A few questions though- it's not in the pictures, but I've angled the brake so instead of the pad running in the centre of the rim wall, it runs against all of it, so it's at a slight downwards angle. Is this a good idea, I want the paint to wear down evenly but still get the best bite- no grinding though. Question 2- what pads are best? Question 3- if I did grind the rim, how long would it and the pads last? Question 4- the frame (limey 320) has a booster built in and four bolt mounts. Is this enough on its own? Obviously I still want my brake booster but itd be good to know that my brake would feel the same without it. And finally- since there's still paint on it doesn't howl. How loud is it when it does? It may seem wierd but I want it as loud as possible- without grinding of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) 1. Angle the pad so the entire pad is touching the rim 2. Heatsink yellows or tnn lgm's on a smooth rim 3. Obviously pad life will be a tad reduced with a grind, but bite and hold will be massively improved, especially if you use cousts. Length of grind depends on the rim. Looks like a try all to me, I harsh ground my try all 2 moths ago and it's still brutal even now. 4. I had a limey 3 26" with the same built in/welded on booster, running a 2011 hs33 with a water bleed and 4 finger lever. It was just fine without a booster, just the right feel. Not too stiff, not too soft Hope this helps, Your friendly neighbourhood bing Edited February 6, 2014 by bing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thebigjam101 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Thanks! I thought the yellow heatsinks were the best, I've been told about them before. The rim is indeed a tryall "h" well that's what the wheel is, the rim is just tryall. On average, how long does a grinded rim last before the constant regrinding means you need a new rim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 You should get at least 6 decent harsh grinds before you should consider getting a new rim. A harsh grind lasts me about 4 months, by the time it's need replacing it'd be knackered from riding anyway. Unless you land mega gently and you weigh about 3 stone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Light grinds about 20 if you dont destroy it on gaps by then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I have this rim laying in my room now, which I have grinded moooore than 25 times, both light and harsch. By looking at it now, I can say that it will take a hell of a lot more grinds. If I where you, I'd get rid of that booster, grind the rim, order a pair of Rockman CNC blues, set the pads up so they hit hit the rim perfect (Meaning that the whole pad hits the rim at the same time) and go out and ride Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) You should get at least 6 decent harsh grinds before you should consider getting a new rim. A harsh grind lasts me about 4 months, by the time it's need replacing it'd be knackered from riding anyway. Unless you land mega gently and you weigh about 3 stone How much material do you remove?! I've run medium/harsh grinds on rims before way more than 6 times, and then sold the rim on (In the knowledge it was still more than upto the job of course) You dont have to grind away so much of the rim if youre getting 6 grinds out of it. Grindings only meant to condition the surface, using the grinder at different angles. I only ever used the weight of the grinder against the rim when I did mine, maybe a wee bit more if I was going harsh. A well done medium grind used to last me 4/5 months right down to completely dead again. Brakes were pretty much always as I expected of them Edited February 4, 2014 by SamKidney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Honestly, I just thought that 6 was a nice round figure. I'm not that experienced with grinds and rim brakes, as I've mainly been dual disk, and only ever put one or two on a rim before I've got rid of the bike. I only use harsh grinds and cousts, and to be fair this tryall rim I've got now feels like it's got quite a bit of life left in it. It's had 4 harsh grinds now. Thinking about it a bit more I do it like you say, just rough the surface up without digging in. Steel cutting disk at 45' angle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thebigjam101 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Thanks! But why get rid of the brake booster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Never ran one to start with. I thought the brake had a solid enough feel without it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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