cardenas_26trials Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Received my answer today and I could only fill a form a send them the pads for inspection to know if I would or not have a warranty. As I live in the other side of the ocean it'd be better to buy another set of pads than paying shipping and waiting who knows how much time to maybe have a set for free. By now, the pads still click when I make a gap, pedal up or when I drop off obstacles. Even though it's a lot smaller and less frequent than it was before, which is good. I think I'll ride for a week or maybe two and see if it disappears completely, if not I will use the method crilin202 mentioned, duck tape is always welcome Yeah, that's normal. The pins are only to stop the pads falling completely out, not to prevent shifting in the caliper. What makes them not shifting horizontally inside the caliper? Again, thanks everybody for your replies, they all are very helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 What makes them not shifting horizontally inside the caliper? The same effect as how a disc brake works - two smooth surfaces will try to stick together. Here's some info I posted previously: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=134278&p=1857318 This is why I asked for pics of the back of the pad and the inside of the caliper earlier, if you have some I'd like to take a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardenas_26trials Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 The same effect as how a disc brake works - two smooth surfaces will try to stick together. Here's some info I posted previously: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=134278&p=1857318 This is why I asked for pics of the back of the pad and the inside of the caliper earlier, if you have some I'd like to take a look This expanded my universe. I'll sand and clean it better then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Haha, cool. With new pads I tend to use fairly harsh sandpaper first (like 80 or 120 grit) to remove the paint, then a lighter grade like 400 to make it smooth. A good brake cleaner, or methylated spirit (the purple stuff that smells nice ) or similar is good for inside the caliper too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 I just chuck them in the calipers hoping not to get too much s**t on them, think I'll try your way next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Do you have any pics of the brake fitted to the bike, the pad surface, inside the caliper and a side on of the brake fitted. i can take a look and see if i could give you an idea what's going wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardenas_26trials Posted December 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Did what Adam said, sanded the whole backing until it was bright. Worked really really well for the first ride but now it has a little click. I'm getting crazy now. Also, the bite point of the lever gets closer to the handlebar with use. Does this mean it is leaking or can it be anything else? Sorry for bothering this much, I just want my bike to work well cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 I don't know If its the same thing but my mono trials lever adjustment screw slowly unscrews itself through rides and I have to tighten it up again to stop brake pulling into my bars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardenas_26trials Posted December 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 In my case, the distance that travels the blade from non-braking to braking is getting larger, not the reach . Something like the BPC on Tech levers. It's hard to explain haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Check your rotor is straight. loosen the caliper mount bolts and turn the wheel you shouldn't see the caliper move side to side. if its bent try bending it back by hand. Or with a disc tool. if its not bent then try topping up the lever resevoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardenas_26trials Posted December 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Check your rotor is straight. loosen the caliper mount bolts and turn the wheel you shouldn't see the caliper move side to side. if its bent try bending it back by hand. Or with a disc tool. if its not bent then try topping up the lever resevoir. The rotor is straight. It was installed about two weeks ago, brand new. No hits until now also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted December 22, 2013 Report Share Posted December 22, 2013 Is the rotor straight though? Sorry to sound stupid but there's a difference between a new rotor and a straight rotor! If it is, then there must be air in the brake somewhere. And it will take a few rides for the back of the pads to wear in, these will be a shiny circle when they are done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardenas_26trials Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Is the rotor straight though? Sorry to sound stupid but there's a difference between a new rotor and a straight rotor. If it is, then there must be air in the brake somewhere. And it will take a few rides for the back of the pads to wear in, these will be a shiny circle when they are done Well, the rotor is not 100% straight, I'll upload a video soon. Then which is the best method to get air out? and when I bleed it, should the pistons be out, in, or don't move them at all? THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Push the pistons all the way back. i find what works well for me is connect the bleed bottle to the caliper. With the pads out ready for bleeding. open the bleed nipple and push the piston back to get some air out of the caliper 1st the finish the bleed as usual from the lever, using the open nipple, pull lever, close nipple, let go lever method. and when its all done for front just clamp the lever over night, with a ziptie. and rear clap the lever with a ziptie and put the bike on its back wheel with the lever blade highest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 I don't know If its the same thing but my mono trials lever adjustment screw slowly unscrews itself through rides and I have to tighten it up again to stop brake pulling into my bars Easy fix that, minute blob of loctite on the thread. Stops it moving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardenas_26trials Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Push the pistons all the way back. i find what works well for me is connect the bleed bottle to the caliper. With the pads out ready for bleeding. open the bleed nipple and push the piston back to get some air out of the caliper 1st the finish the bleed as usual from the lever, using the open nipple, pull lever, close nipple, let go lever method. and when its all done for front just clamp the lever over night, with a ziptie. and rear clap the lever with a ziptie and put the bike on its back wheel with the lever blade highest All the times I bleed it with the pistons back, when I put the pads back and pull the lever, the bite point is nearly touching the handlebar . Also, I don't have the bottle from the bleed kit, I use a directly connected syringe instead, does it make any difference? I use Dot 5.1 brake fluid if it matters. Can I have a step by step guide of what you said? Got a little confused haha, sorry Any other aspect that can be causing this problem? I'm quite desperate right now thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cardenas_26trials Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 After getting my bike in a DOT bath, several bleeds and trying every method I've heard, read, or imagined, I came to the conclusion that there must be something wrong with the brake. So I'll buy a bunch of replacements for it and the Hope bleed kit and see what happens. I even think it's something related to the lever. Well, at least there is no more play on the pads thanks everybody! you can close this topic I suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 If the bite point is nearly touching the handlebar there is lots of air in the brake. It's very very unlikely you need to replace anything, only if there is a loyal. You don't use a syringe to bleed it, have a look on the hope website for the instructional video. I'll try and put the link here but it's a pain using a phone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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