Luke Rainbird Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 No no, just has shares and a failing commision deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Do you own Marino , family biker ? i said"for example",but yeah,i like those frames. No no, just has shares and a failing commision deal muahaha.no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaotic3vil Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Nothing more reliable than a good hub with a strong 10mm / 14mm axle bolt tightened with long wrench. If the frame is well made and the bolt sits perfect 90º on the dropout there's no problem at all. Mech hangers break and weigh more, inner bolts on the dropouts are equally bad because it's more prune to cracks after some abuse. Only advantage on mech hangers is the like manuel said, geo accuracy, but I rather prefer fiddling and changing chains after 4 months than bashing the tensioner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Dale Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Haha iv enjoyed reading this thread i ran a pro 2 on horzontal dropout without snail cams for ages. Wheel never moved so im assumeing that it was the "magic friction" that held it? Either that or my brute force tightening the wheel up? Horizontal, yes, my bad. So magic friction it is, as I understand from your comments. Awesome comment!! im still chuckling thanks for cheering up this very gloomy friday for me xx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 i ran a pro 2 on horzontal dropout without snail cams for ages. Wheel never moved so im assumeing that it was the "magic friction" that held it? Either that or my brute force tightening the wheel up? definitly brute on that one. i run a pro 2 on snail cams and tryed alloy bolts on the cam bolts and bent the head on the bolt. using steel now and all good. have you been rounding off any of the m10 allen key bolt then with that much brute to hold the wheel? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Were you greasing the bolts before you put them in? It makes a huge difference to how they tighten up, and consequently to how tight you need to do them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perez Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 /\ Those are nice dropouts. The original reason for it was to allow people to run gears if they wanted to. Quite a few riders who bought Fourplay and Hex frames from TartyBikes when I worked there were talking about running gears, and having vertical dropouts allows that. The Fourplay/Hex frames are supposed to be pretty versatile, so it just helps out in that sense. The Arcade is more focussed, so putting horizontal dropouts on there isn't as much of an issue. You said everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Dale Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 definitly brute on that one. i run a pro 2 on snail cams and tryed alloy bolts on the cam bolts and bent the head on the bolt. using steel now and all good. have you been rounding off any of the m10 allen key bolt then with that much brute to hold the wheel? did do a couple yea so i put some stainless m10 bolts in that use a 17mm spanner instead of an allen key next ride my bro did the same and we have never looked back x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted September 7, 2013 Report Share Posted September 7, 2013 I had a thought you were going to say you upgraded to the 17mm bolts. A few of my mates did that to there dirt jump bikes. I think I just tighten then too carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted September 7, 2013 Report Share Posted September 7, 2013 do it with a newton wrench,40Nm should be good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Dale Posted September 7, 2013 Report Share Posted September 7, 2013 (edited) do it with a newton wrench,40Nm should be good i swing on mine dude there tight as fook! 40nm is for cranks not wheels Edited September 7, 2013 by Yorkshire Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted September 7, 2013 Report Share Posted September 7, 2013 (edited) tell that to a bicycle technician. oh wait! edit:no,joking aside,again(hehe), normally an axle bolt or nut is tightened to 30Nm,40 would be more than 130% of that,which exeeds most bolt or nut manufacturers tolerances already.should be enough Edited September 7, 2013 by FamilyBiker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 My wheel was moving slightly. So i put steel snail cam bolts in. It's fixed now anyway. Thanks for the advice. I may fish out the old torque wrench later and check it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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