clerictgm Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Unfortunately I can't setup these ultra-cool red TOMAC 1998 maggie with 1998 original evo clamps, so I've setting up some deores with TNN LGV. Should I use this cable guides (pic) or it's better to have one-piece cable? And what about flexy noodles or just set regular ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Why can't you use the Tomacs?Would use normal noodle and the cable stops on the frame, personally. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dngr2self Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Unfortunately I can't setup these ultra-cool red TOMAC 1998 maggie with 1998 original evo clamps, so I've setting up some deores with TNN LGV. Should I use this cable guides (pic) or it's better to have one-piece cable? And what about flexy noodles or just set regular ones? Your not using a hammer and screw driver to set them up are you? You need to use Allen keys and they should go on fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clerictgm Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) Well, this is what I have. If set this on my element with this booster slaves would be not parallel to rim. It seems like booster must be wider to set slaves parallel to the rim. Maybe buy and try new evo2 clamps? And also I don't know what this things are for? Edited July 24, 2013 by clerictgm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Get a different booster (or run without- those Maggy ones were always a bit crap). The elbow bits sit against the inside of the frame to stop the setup from rotating outwards when the brake's applied. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 You could either modify the standard booster or put a trials specific (like a trialtech for example) on to get the spacing required, the old HS33 were designed for narrower rims and post spacing; failing that you could cut one from a plate of aluminium. Those aluminium elbows are used to stop the top of the mounts spreading, they pull into a taper when you tighten the top screw up. Use an open ended spanner (10mm I think) to turn the square section and they should come free on the taper, when you're setting the brake up they should be rotated in order to be touching the inside of the seatstays - it was always a pretty flaky system though and could be very tricky to set up. Also don't use the quick release lever/sleeve, they always used to pull over the hourglass bolt and came loose, much better to bolt it up tight with a new screw. Personally if you have canti bosses I would use a decent vee brake over the original mount maggie, the newer evo ones might be better but still not a patch on dedicated 4 bolt mounts. Dammit snaked by dave! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 But your response was far more detailed! I'm with you though- quite quickly stopped using the pants QR and would probably opt for a good V setup instead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clerictgm Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Yeah, I will try some good vees + I found ECLAT CORE linear cables! In our city this is a miracle to buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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