trialsiain Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 any idea how i can get the other half of bolt out ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clerictgm Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 lol wtf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 lol wtf thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 Did it snap tightening or undoing? Did you put antisieze (copaslip) on the threads before assembly? If its cold welded itself in there, you're pretty stuffed. You won't drill it or get it machined out for less than the cost of a new collar/bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 well i fell off onto bar side and made a huge crack and it had lithium grease on, then i was tightening it to see what noise was and it just exploded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 drill a small hole into it and get an "unscrewer",basically a left threaded spike shaped bolt. or a normal loooong metal screw and scew it out to the side where your bolt ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 cut through end with hacksaw, was like cutting through cheese and used a screwdriver :~) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunt man t Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 there isnt any pressure so if you cut a slot and used a screwdriver it would be easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 there isnt any pressure so if you cut a slot and used a screwdriver it would be easy exactly what i did, look up at my latest post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 there isnt any pressure so if you cut a slot and used a screwdriver it would be easy Not if it had siezed, which is very common with TI bolts in aluminium. (I found anyway, which lead to me going back to all stainless steel). Anyway, glad it's sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsiain Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 ive put my steel ones back in and for some reason the side that the bolt snapped on seems to tighten down more then the other ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 I had a nukeproof ti bolt snap in the same place on the try all stem. I am back on steel there now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clerictgm Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Isnt it stupid - to buy titanium bolts that weaker than standart steel bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Isnt it stupid - to buy titanium bolts that weaker than standart steel bolts? you could ask this question for carbon bars aswell,or even for aluminium frames... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Isnt it stupid - to buy titanium bolts that weaker than standart steel bolts? Good point. Let's build everything with lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 You fell off and put a product under stress, then it broke? Seems a bit obvious to me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Isnt it stupid - to buy titanium bolts that weaker than standart steel bolts? Yeah, Titanium really is known for being weak as shit - i don't see the point either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Probolt.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Probolt.com I'm sorry, fiver for one steel bolt? :l no thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 But there mega steel bolts. Not you average bolts u see. Extra shine steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) But there mega steel bolts. Not you average bolts u see. Extra shine steel You do know that stainless steel aren't as strong as the black ones you get from your local engineer suppliers for pence each? Black allen screws are typically grade 10.9 in the sizes we use, zinc plated will probably be grade 4.6 or 8.8, stainless will be A2-70 at best (which is a fair bit weaker than 8.8 IIRC). edit: for reference http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/Strength.htm Grade 8.8 bolts are considered high tensile steel and has a yield stress of 800N/mm2, A2-70 screws have a yield stress of 700 N/mm2, 10.9 is 100N/mm2. edit2: It would be interesting to see what grade and specification the stan fixings (and any other aftermarket for that matter) are made to. Dead simple for someone to order a batch of 10000000 bolts for dirt cheap from china and then resell them at a massive mark up - what standard are they supplied to though? Edited July 8, 2013 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike_dummie Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Probolt.com Anyone to buy any type of steel bolt there is a fool! Just go to your local fastener. I usually buy a 100 bolts if I ever need any even if I only need 2 simply because they are so cheap! Usually on average 5p for a bolt! That's for plated or stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 12.9 grade steel that's blacked is the best imo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 i found the stats for the pro bolt bolts stainless • Density: 8030 kg/m3 (501lb/ft3) • Young's Modulus: 193GPa (28 x 106psi) • Yield Strength: 260MPa (37.7 x 103psi) • Ultimate Tensile Strength: 570MPa (82.7 x 103psi) • Compressive Strength: 260MPa (37.7 x 103psi) • Shear Modulus: 78GPa (11.3 x 106psi) • Ductility: 40% elongation at break + • Minimum value allowed by ASTM A240 • Poisson's Ratio: 0.27 • Hardness: 95 Rockwell B + • Maximum value allowed by ASTM A240 • Strength-to-Weight Ratio: 32.4kNm/kg • Stiffness-to-Weight Ratio: 24 MNm/kg titanuim • Density: 4420 kg/m3 (276lb/ft3) • Young's Modulus: 110GPa (16 x 106psi) • Yield Strength: 828 MPa (120 x 103psi) • Ultimate Tensile Strength: 1030MPa (149 x 103psi) • Compressive Strength: 960MPa (139 x 103psi) • Shear Modulus: 43GPa (6.24 x 106psi) • Ductility: 10% elongation at break • Poisson's Ratio: 0.34 • Hardness: 36 Rockwell C • Strength-to-Weight Ratio: 187kNm/kg • Stiffness-to-Weight Ratio: 24.9MNm/kg i am using the ti bolts. i havent ordered any of the stainless ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 (edited) So their stainless steel bolts are the cheapest of the cheap shite, weaker than 4.6 by a long way and their titanium is weaker than 8.8 (about on par with 6al4v ti fasteners). No really for the 1-2 grammes that ti fasteners are saving you its worthless unless you're competing at top level. You do know that titanium really isn't light don't you? Edited July 9, 2013 by forteh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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