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Tensionerless riding


clerictgm

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I can't understand this magic. Do I need some specific chain? Some specific gearing? I want my bike to look clean and also I hate if there are too much things that can be broken (hanger + tensioner).

Now I have 18-14 with 3/32" KMC K-810 chain.

I want to get rideable bike without tensioner or with spoke tensioner, but I broke ~20 spokes with no rideable result..

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Edited by clerictgm
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Do I need some specific chain? Some specific gearing?.

And frame.

From what I gather, it depends on finding a nice horizontal dropout frame that's been made with ratio X in mind and using that with a new chain. Or you can play with weird ratios like 17-14 if you can find it, or you can add a half-link.

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Just use a tensioner.

If you haven't got horizontal drops to keep things tight then you probably need to sacrifice gearing to get something rideable and even then chain stretch can cause you problems.

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Half-link is deadly dangerous and stupid. I strongly recommend not to use this shit in any style of riding.



But how about hundreds of riders (with vertical dropouts) with spoke tensioners? I don't get if I'm too stupid or spoke tensioner has very low power and rideable only in case when chain is sags slightly?

Edited by clerictgm
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Half-link is deadly dangerous and stupid. I strongly recommend not to use this shit in any style of riding.

But how about hundreds of riders (with vertical dropouts) with spoke tensioners? I don't get if I'm too stupid or spoke tensioner has very low power and rideable only in case when chain is sags slightly?

There obviously isn't going to be loads of tension with a spoke tensioner, just enough to keep your chain coming off.

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If you are very careful you can do what i did, which was gently tap the gear hanger around with a hammer so it wraps around the bolt, that way the tensioner sits right up near the frame, then you may be able to remove a pair of links. also, less likely to hit it. mines been like this since about 06/07 and havent had to replace the hanger yet. one annoying things is that you will have to completely remove the bolt to remove the rear wheel.

like this:

303544_10150960955334431_1795842233_n.jp

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Half-link is deadly dangerous and stupid. I strongly recommend not to use this shit in any style of riding.

This argument always confuses me. I'd love to know how many people have snapped halflinks, the plates that is, vs how many people just jump on.

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This argument always confuses me. I'd love to know how many people have snapped halflinks, the plates that is, vs how many people just jump on.

I don't see any reason to confuse. Half link is 100% shit. 3 of my mates snapped it in period from 1 day to 2 weeks. They are fail by design for trials. And for example on my KMC 810 only chainlock snapped after 3 years of riding. And my mate rides some KMC (710 I guess) that 7 years old! It's stupid. but..

Edited by clerictgm
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Where abouts did they snap them though cause they do need more attention when rejoining. So let me guess youve not snapped one? And the 100% shit part, you be talking 100% shit.

This argument always confuses me. I'd love to know how many people have snapped halflinks, the plates that is, vs how many people just jump on.

I've snapped them on a few mountain bikes and street bikes. Wouldn't ever dare pop on on a trials bike because of this. Because of the bends in the plate, these try to flatten out under load, creating not only a silly amount of stretch but also a perfect place at which to snap. All of the links that I have snapped have been in the middle of the plate on a bend. Normally the outer bend at that.

If you rivet a chain properly, and then peen it over, it's very unlikely it will ever go on the rivet. The only exception being the SRAM 1091r that I had, in which I cracked a plate from the rivet hole through to the little cutout in the side of the plate! To this day i don't know how, but I will not run one again!

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