Service Manual

[1337 Trials]

Hello.

My forks have topped out for a long time and im going to try and sort it. I have a Canon 60D so im going to record myself taking the forks apart so I know how it all goes back together

Im struggling to find a service manual for my forks as I think there around 2005-2007 so there quite old.

There Marzocchi bomber drop off 150mm but I noticed most of these forks have bolt through axles and mine doesn't.

Someone said there an OEM version but someone else said there not because they have the Marzocchi logo sprayed on.

So can anyone help me find the service manual for these forks so I can sort the topping out on them?

Thanks

Edited May 6, 2013 by 1337 Trials

[FamilyBiker]

does it have a hologram sticker?

model year is pretty important to get the right manual...

Edited May 6, 2013 by FamilyBiker

[1337 Trials]

Found out there 2007 OEM's Drop Offs.

Might buy some 10WT fork oil and replace the oil I think. Hopefully 10wt is thicker than whats in there at the moment.

[FamilyBiker]

marzocchi forks have 7,5 wt in there when theyre new,so yeah,should be thicker.

you can adjust the rebound internally with a hex key though,i´d try that first before putting higher viscosity oil into it,those forks have a ssv valve system which means your compression and rebound use the same oil,leading to an always slow rebound with too thick oil,fork would stay compressed when going over rough terrain.

for my ols marzocchi fork a selfmixed 8,5 wt was best,anything thinner topped out,anything thicker screwed up the adjustability.

main problem should be the spring if its topping out too easy,maybe you need a harder one

[forteh]

When you say topped out do you mean bottoming (compression) the forks or topping them (extension)?
you can can increase the amount of oil to resist bottoming better.

edit: to clarify, the oil height is specified in the manual as the distance from the top of the stanchion tube to the oil level inside the tube (with the spring removed, stanchion tube and any damping cartridge rod pushed all the way down), you can easily measure this with a vernier calliper or a small steel rule.

The air gap formed between the oil level and top cap creates an air spring with a progressive rate (as all air springs naturally have) so that as the fork nears the end of its compression stroke the volume of air is compressed and helps resist bottoming the fork.

Marzocchi recommend a +/- 10% tuning allowance on the oil height to allow you to change the bottoming characteristics of the forks; if you are bottoming really harshly, try increasing the oil level a touch.

For example, on my Z1 forks the oil level is 50mm, I can increase that measurement (up to a maximum of 55mm for the 10%) to make the fork more linear in spring rate or I can reduce the measurement (to a minimum of 45mm for the 10%) to give more bottom out resistance. I currently have them at 50mm and haven't bottomed the forks out at all.

Edited May 8, 2013 by forteh

[FamilyBiker]

Hello.

My forks have topped out

When you say topped out do you mean bottoming (compression) the forks or topping them (extension)?

good question,i assumed he meant bottom out as in the fork punches through to the end of travel with a hard knock.

as said above,reducing the air cushion (increasing oil level)makes the overall spring rate harder,increasing it softer,because less air is more progressive(it will get to higher pressure due to less space and oil couldnt compress noticeable),and the oil will almost reach the top cap at the ending travel,giving it kind of a lockout feel.

if its topping out you should slow down your rebound valve,usually done with a long hex key from the top op your opened non spring side.

edit:on my 04 dj3 the rebound springs were broken,did knock a fair bit when pulling into airtime,check this too to make sure it wont have further damage

Edited May 8, 2013 by FamilyBiker