Rear Wheel Build Question

[Sam Song]

I find that when I get my rear wheel built (King classic + 44 to 47mm rim) for my Zoo Piranha 2009, the rear wheel is dished toward the non drive side.

Not severely so it still clears, but enough for me to notice. And as I ride the wheel, it gets dished to the non drive side and I can't tighten the non drive side spokes anymore because there is no room available on the non drive side of the rear wheel.

And I always follow the exact numbers that the spoke length calculator gives me.

For my future wheels, is it okay for me to get slightly shorter drive side spokes and longer non drive side spokes, than the recommended spoke lengths to move the rear wheel toward the drive side more to center it?

If so, by how much?

Edited May 4, 2013 by Sam Song

[isitafox]

If the wheel is dishing over to the non drive side then you need to tighten the drive side to pull it back across.

Did you figure out the spoke lengths yourself or did you get the shop you bought them from?

[Sam Song]

Always had Tarty just do my spokes for me,

To reiterate, yup the drive side spokes are about as tight as they get right now, with the non drive side spokes way too loose.

[cai]

You could try putting a 1-2mm spacer under every drive side nipple, that would have the same effect as having shorter spokes on the drive side.

[EliaOver]

Hummm... If the drive side spokes have enough screw for tighten them, you can only tighten them and then cut the piece that's over the rim wall..

[pete_s]

Curious as to why the amount of dish of the rim is changing just by riding, or maybe I've misunderstood. The rim should be made central between the hub lock nuts during the wheel building process and measured by a dishing tool.

Could you post how you're measuring the rim diameter, hub dimensions and what calculator you're using?

Edited May 4, 2013 by pete_s

[Ash-Kennard]

you sure you didn't lace it up with the spokes on the wrong sides?

[FamilyBiker]

yeah,normally a wheelbuild is going to be bang on in centering if all spokes are where they should be and tightened to an equal amount.

[Sam Song]

I am sure I used the spokes on the correct sides because the "dishing to the non drive side" problem has been with all of my wheels before.

Keep in mind that my King Classic Hub has casette space for 9 cogs on the drive side, unlike most other trials rear hubs with just one space for a cog and wide flanges.

So even if the wheel is built correctly to the center of the King hub shell, there is still space for 9 cogs to the drive side outside the hub shell.

I would say that it actually makes sense for me to build the wheel slightly dished to the drive side in future to compensate for that long driveshell on the king classic rear hub.

For the spokes, like I said, I just let Tarty know my hub/rim combo and let them do the cutting and calculations.

I assume they know their shit.

[AdamR28]

The difference for a King Classic is just under 3mm left and right, we do spokes in even lengths (nobody cuts spokes any more, at least I hope they don't!), so you'll have something like 262 and 264, for example.

For all dished wheels, ignore where the spoke sits in relation to the top of the nipple (within reason) and add more tension to one side to pull the wheel across.

One side will always be a lot tighter than the other on a dished wheel, it has to be - triangulation.

The rim should be in the centre of the axle, not the hub shell, I think that's where you're going wrong.

[manuel]

Or your frame is bent.