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Post a pic of your non trials bike


Bucky

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Got me a ccdba to go on the intense, was going to push the rp23 but for the same money I got a shock that can actually be tuned :)

Anyone want a fox rp23? 190x50, had a new air can and shock body when mojo serviced it in December 2012, I got it with the intense in March 2013 and done about 200 odd miles since so loads of life in it. Probably do with an air cab lube, if I can find suitable oil I'll do it.

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http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb12413240/p5pb12413240.jpg

Here's my norco storm 9.2 2013

Upgrades are

Avid bb7 180 fr and rear weren't sure on the 203

Race face ride xc cranks triple ring

Shimano Saint pedals

Shimano Saint rear mech

Just need some new wheels hopefully hope hoops and some fox forks and I'll be happy

Anyone here ride with renthal fatbar carbon bars I'm tempted

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The cane creek shock is incredible, blows the fox out of the water in all ways!

Taken the base tune for a santa cruz bronson (150mm vpp trail bike where as the 5.5 is a 140mm vpp trail bike) and fiddled with it to get a base tune I'm happy with. Increased high speed compression 1/2 turn, reduced high speed rebound a touch and it's as supple as the marzocchi up front on small stuff, fully supportive mid stroke and doesn't wallow through the travel when lofting a manual :)

The rp23 is crap in comparison on the intense, going to take a while to get the tune all finalised but the difference with 5 minutes of fiddling is night and day!

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Sorry, sort of a "wut bike is gud" question coming up.

I'm looking at "all mountain" type bikes, full suss obviously, second hand, about £500, maybe a touch more if it's worth it.

I'm really out of touch with mountain bikes. Do any models spring to mind for that price range?

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I'd ask what sort of riding/places had you got in mind? At £500 you may be a bit limited with getting a decent full sus, but that's not to say you can't.

For that sort of money you could possibly get a nice long travel hardtail which will teach you a lot more and you'd likely get better spec for your money but if you are committed to full sus then you may have to be willing to skimp on the spec with that budget.

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I'd mainly like it to be decent for red & black routes at mountain biking centres, but I might venture into some gentle xc as well.

I've seen a couple things that look ok for the price range. Definitely take your point on the hardtails, but I think I'd rather stretch the budget than go hardtail, as my knees don't seem to cope well.

I quite like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOARDMAN-PRO-FULL-SUSPENSION-MTB-FULL-SUS-ROCKSHOX-/252021451869?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aada62c5d

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I would trawl pinkbike and have an idea on the sort of bike you want so you can keep your eyes open. You can get real bargains on there if you take your time.

I paid 260 for my intense 5.5 frame, not seen another go for less than 375 since. Got my marzocchi 44rc3ti for 80 and cane creek shock for 130 (factoring in reselling the ti hardware I couldn't use). Less than 500 quid for top spec chassis kit, ok so the frame is pretty old but it is still expensive hand built boutique :)

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The boardmans are a good shout, I picked up a new condition 2010 model for £425 2 years ago and it did everything I needed to get into it. However their geo sits more towards the xc side of things. Most things that are intended to descend will likely cost more money.

I advise with mountain bikes you make sure you see the bike before parting with cash and take someone that knows their way around a bike. For example from the poor pics of the white one I could tell it has a crappy shimano alvio mech connected to a sram shifter that isn't compatible, the rear mech outer cable is too short and it has a road bike cassette. Looking at the pics of it is guess there'd be a number of other things that would need sorting.

Edited by Duncy H
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To be fair they could be sram attack shifters that use shimano cable pull ratio, the alivio mech will work no better than an equivalent age xt mech, just heavier and hasn't got the name badge (says me who has always used xt mechs :D).

The cable outer does look a touch too short whilst the front brake is too long, easy fix but it does scream of cobbled together bike not one that's been ridden and loved.

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I wouldn't pay any more than it's currently going for on that bike (and also hadn't opened your link and seen it was a Boardman before recommending one!)

Go for the more recent model as they look and perform a whole load nicer. If you get properly stuck, pick up a hardtail and I've got a Boardman FS frame knocking about somewhere that you could have cheap to throw the parts on to.

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Brief update on my intense :)

Got new tyres a few weeks back because my old ITS ones were failing on the sidewall and losing air at a rediculous rate, not had much chance to properly use the michelins in anger yet but they seem good so far. Light and cheap to boot!

My old m750 xt mech (circa 1998) had stripped it's barrel adjuster so after many years of faultless service got confined to scrap/spares and replaced with a 10 speed shadow+ xt mech fitted with 9spd sram x5 shifter with a 5.9mm spacer block to get the mech to work perfectly with 9speed.

CCDBA has replaced the fox rp23 (thank god I no longer have anything fox - I dunno I just don't like it) and it's so much more responsive and has livened up the bike by a good deal. Still got fine tuning to carry out but that will come with time.

Whilst clearing out some crap on my phone I came across a pdf of one of the brace mounted fenders to print and cut out, promptly did so from some 0.5mm thick polyethelyene sheet we use at work. Also made a modified extended version to fit the back to try to alleviate some of the mud collection around the lower linkage - to be fair intense didn't do a bad job and it pretty good at self clearing but it doesn't hurt to try to keep the worst out. Not sure how much the back one will help but it should be significant compared to without it.

Whilst retensioning my wheels on friday night I removed my rear caliper to try to sort out why it has been rubbing (18+ year old hopes so normally just a sticky piston seal), couldn't find anything wrong with it so refitted to find that the lower hole had pulled most of the threads out and couldn't be tightened. Bollocks, it's a no.8 caliper for direct mount 185 rear rotor so works a lot nicer than using adaptors, being 23:30 I left it till the morning, rang my local engineering stockist and 25 m6 helicoil inserts acquired for a fiver! Already got the tap and drill kit so caliper was sorted by 10am :)

Enough talking - pictures!

edit: grab the fender pdf printout from my dropbox here!

post-6335-0-54144200-1436784782_thumb.jp

post-6335-0-65536000-1436784788_thumb.jp

post-6335-0-58916500-1436784796_thumb.jp

post-6335-0-85310200-1436784801_thumb.jp

post-6335-0-66310600-1436784808_thumb.jp

post-6335-0-19572100-1436784815_thumb.jp

post-6335-0-29815000-1436784829_thumb.jp

post-6335-0-44089700-1436784834_thumb.jp

Edited by forteh
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Thanks, it's certainly a pretty engaging ride, doesn't seem to have a slow gear. Short with steep angles works really well for me :)

Need to get the powdercoat stripped, any suggestions for doing so chemically so as to not affect/discolour the aluminium underneath? Want to take it back to the factory raw state but shot blasting it will alter the substrate. The patches of paint missing are from using biostrip20 as a test - it worked to a point but would take an eternity to do the whole frame and results weren't amazing (still very good for a solvent free stripper).

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