Ross McArthur Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Haha. Maybe best to start off going along the canal or something then. There was tears when I took Charlotte to Cathkin for the first time. Carron Valley was more suited to her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Haha. Maybe best to start off going along the canal or something then. There was tears when I took Charlotte to Cathkin for the first time. Carron Valley was more suited to her. I still think that inside line of the 3 sort of 'drop-option' lines is a dick. I struggled to see how you' ride that with pace and it always caused me to think twice (and almost cry). The way it drops in to the sharp left I think is a really bad bit of building in comparison to the middle line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 I'm guessing blur http://youtu.be/Caf-HgrhIHo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Suspension question. If I change the oil in my forks from 10wt to 5wt to speed up the compression damping, and adjust the rebound adjuster to get the desired rebound speed, would I be expected to put some more air in or leave it where I had it before? I ask because I'm trying to speed up the compression without affecting the air/spring hardness. I'm currently at 110psi with approx 20% sag. Your thoughts please people in the know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Looks lovely that does Ross Dan, in theory you shouldn't need to touch the air pressure, however you may find that with less compression damping you have less support from the damper and the fork may sit lower in the travel. What damper is it and what adjustments do you have? Why are you wanting to decrease compression damping, are you getting spikes on hits? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Thanks man. Just the head set to put in and that should be it done. Thinking of getting some bigger forks for it. Something 160. Anybody know if marzocchi 55 forks are any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 From what I've read they're very good, heavy but generally excellent forks. If you can get the rc3 ti version then go for it, the rc3 damper is awesome Avoid '08/'09 forks like the plague as marzocchi had shipped manufacture to the far east, suffered a lot of QC issues and lost a massive amount of loyalty, I believe earlier forks and '10 onwards are all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Looks lovely that does Ross Dan, in theory you shouldn't need to touch the air pressure, however you may find that with less compression damping you have less support from the damper and the fork may sit lower in the travel. What damper is it and what adjustments do you have? Why are you wanting to decrease compression damping, are you getting spikes on hits? It's a suntour epicon fork, a sealed unit that screws into the leg with rebound damping only. It was too stiff on high speed compression and not really compressing, was kicking back through the bars on stuff that's not a big hit. It was making the fork legs flex rather than absorbing the bumps, hence trying to make the damping a bit softer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 If it's sealed then I don't think you changing the oil weight will affect anything unless you can open up the cartridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 From what I've read they're very good, heavy but generally excellent forks. If you can get the rc3 ti version then go for it, the rc3 damper is awesome Avoid '08/'09 forks like the plague as marzocchi had shipped manufacture to the far east, suffered a lot of QC issues and lost a massive amount of loyalty, I believe earlier forks and '10 onwards are all good. Yea, I agree that the earlier stuff was awesome. I had a set of dirt jumper 3s, and despite the weight, they were the nicest feeling forks I've ever ran. Ill keep a look out... Can't wait to take it a blast down some rough stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) The rc3 is so far advanced over the dj3 it's not even worth considering them to be in the same league! I was damn lucky and only paid 80 quid for my 44 rc3 ti, they go for 160-170 quid normally, from what I've seen the 55 are normally 200+. These should do you nicely http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1699448/ edit: that's assuming you want the buttery small bump compliance of a coil fork, the air ones are probably a bit lighter but not as plush. Edited May 19, 2015 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 If it's sealed then I don't think you changing the oil weight will affect anything unless you can open up the cartridge It's not completely sealed, I opened it up last night to drain the old oil out which happened to be all milky and full of shite. Cleaned it out and refilled with fresh 5wt oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Is the damping cartridge sealed though? If it's open bath (holes in the cartridge body) the the fork oil can cycle through it and changing it to lighter will help, if it's a sealed unit then you're pretty stuffed as I don't believe they're user serviceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) There's holes in the damper plunger, I think that's what it's called, and it also has a lockout on which you can see when it's apart how it works, just covers two holes up. Changed the oil, put the top back on the damper and then screw the hole thing back into the uppers. Then slide the lowers on and bolt it up at the bottom and put the rebound adjuster back in. So yeah you could say it is sealed, but it can be taken apart for oil changes and new seals. It felt better on the damping last night just messing about on a local trail so I'll see what happens. Worst situation is I can just put 10wt back in. It's only a 20min job to sort it out Edited May 19, 2015 by bing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Ah so the damper piston is fully accesible, sounds like its a damper rod as per the old cheaper marzocchis. Effectively the piston is on a column attached to the bottom of the sliders and seals directly against the inside of the stanchion tubes. Rudimentry at best and easily overwhelmed but lighter oil will affect things as it's an open bath damper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Ah so the damper piston is fully accesible, sounds like its a damper rod as per the old cheaper marzocchis. Effectively the piston is on a column attached to the bottom of the sliders and seals directly against the inside of the stanchion tubes. Rudimentry at best and easily overwhelmed but lighter oil will affect things as it's an open bath damper Yeah and no. It is how you say like an old marzocchi, ie open bath style but in a removable cartridge, self contained and can be taken out of the fork completely with the oil still in it. Makes it a lot cleaner and easier to service Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Thinking these might be ok? Thoughts? http://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/1757315/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) They'll do, these will do better http://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/1718118/ Edited May 19, 2015 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 I don't have a tapered steerer. Old school init. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Ah, gayface, hadn't considered that and assumed that it was tapered sorry Either way the rc3 is the one to go for if you can, failing that the others should be fine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Some better pictures.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Nice that is ross. Looks nice and relaxed at the front. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Some better pictures.. That's not a narrow-wide ring is it? Surely not? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross McArthur Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Nice that is ross. Looks nice and relaxed at the front. Cheers man. In what way do you think it looks relaxed? That's not a narrow-wide ring is it? Surely not? Haha, it sure is, and after my blast last night I can now utter the un-holy words only a narrow wide owner can, "Ive only ever dropped a chain once"! I used it on the dual slalom race and was surprised that the chain stayed on but last night after a big drop it did come off. I dont have a clutch mech you see. I think ill probably go back to using a guide and run the NW at the same time. I like the idea of having a more solid interface with the chain using the NW, so its staying on there for sure. As for the frame, its got to be the best thing ive ever ridden. Its a pleasure to pedal and the front end pops up so easily. I thought it would be heavier than my old Pitch but to pick up theres hardly any difference and to pedal it feels lighter! So chuffed with that. Theres a bit of a story behind me trying to get a hold of the frame too. Some things are best kept quiet though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Cheers man. In what way do you think it looks relaxed? Haha, it sure is, and after my blast last night I can now utter the un-holy words only a narrow wide owner can, "Ive only ever dropped a chain once"! I used it on the dual slalom race and was surprised that the chain stayed on but last night after a big drop it did come off. I dont have a clutch mech you see. I think ill probably go back to using a guide and run the NW at the same time. I like the idea of having a more solid interface with the chain using the NW, so its staying on there for sure. As for the frame, its got to be the best thing ive ever ridden. Its a pleasure to pedal and the front end pops up so easily. I thought it would be heavier than my old Pitch but to pick up theres hardly any difference and to pedal it feels lighter! So chuffed with that. Theres a bit of a story behind me trying to get a hold of the frame too. Some things are best kept quiet though... What about just a small top guide? The Blackspire Ein Fach ones are good and come in either direct mount/ISCG (05) or clamp mount: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=einfachx Glad you're enjoying the bike. P.S. You know you have to tell the story of sourcing the frame now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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