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jaf build help with geo


Trials-Mikey

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hi guys thinking about a jaf build and had a drawing sent to me i have been playing about with brakeless mod for a while and would like something that spins easier and manuals nice but will also do some tgs. basically needing thoughts on the geometry that i am thinking of basically will this feel nicer than my old echo team 09.Also need ideas on colors following spec.

trialtech black 4-bolts

trialtech sport black stem

white monty kenny belaey bars

silver onza cranks

white trialtech magnesium pedals

black echo rims

black trialtech hubs

red rimtape

ti bolts

any help would be appreciated

post-30572-0-63786700-1361906998_thumb.j

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Geo sounds pretty nice to me:)

May I ask why you have a headangle of 73 degrees? :)

Because that's the only headangle worth having ;)

It reins in the front wheel whilst giving the same reach, meaning it's not cramped and you get sharper steering, which in turn carves in to spins better. It's also nicer for frenchies as you don't have to rotate as far around the front axle to get the bounce since it's already closer to being underneath you. Lets you wodge slightly smaller obstacles, and whilst it takes a while to adjust to initially getting the bike higher, it helps with hooks since you're positioned higher over the corner of the wall when you hit it. I can't really comment on front-gaps as I've only had it brakeless, but I can't see how it would make them any worse... In my mind, it seems like it should even make them easier to pin down and switch through - but that's a guess.

My frames geometry is 73*, 595, 350, +70, 980 and is awesome with a 165x35* stem. (I'm 5'9".)

She's a bit biased toward street though - sidehops are a bit awkward - so a little longer might work out well if you want to be a little less street-inclined and more trialsy.

618 is a fairly large reach though, so I'd definitely recommend a 150mm stem and having the bars rolled back. As it stands, that geo and listed spec should ride pretty damned nice, but do spend a while playing with bar angles to get it settled - a few degrees back/forward can make a huge difference.

It all depends on where you want it to lie on the street:TGS continuum :P

Edit: Just a point for anyone else that might be looking at getting a Jaf frame made... Spare some consideration for the guy and ask these sorts of questions BEFORE getting a quote. If you're still really unsure, you don't need a diagram :P Drawing frames up takes time!

Edited by aener
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Because that's the only headangle worth having ;)

It reins in the front wheel whilst giving the same reach, meaning it's not cramped and you get sharper steering, which in turn carves in to spins better. It's also nicer for frenchies as you don't have to rotate as far around the front axle to get the bounce since it's already closer to being underneath you. Lets you wodge slightly smaller obstacles, and whilst it takes a while to adjust to initially getting the bike higher, it helps with hooks since you're positioned higher over the corner of the wall when you hit it. I can't really comment on front-gaps as I've only had it brakeless, but I can't see how it would make them any worse... In my mind, it seems like it should even make them easier to pin down and switch through - but that's a guess.

Thanks Flipp, that's the sort of explanation I wanted :)

That does sound like a awesome headangle, why haven't I seen it on any mass produced frame though? :o

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Because not many people want a streety mod. If they want street, they get a BMX. If they want trials, they get a normal mod.

A slacker head angle means a longer wheelbase for the same reach, and a longer wheelbase makes the bike more stable/less twitchy.

For trials this is good, but for agility it's bad.

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why haven't I seen it on any mass produced frame though? :o

See...mass produced frame.....

You have....on every Inspired.

Not every Inspired :wink: (meaning the ones Ali, Mark and Sean are testing)

The older silver and black/red Ashtons had 73 HA too.

I was referring only to Inspireds in mass production...... :)

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Because that's the only headangle worth having ;)

It reins in the front wheel whilst giving the same reach, meaning it's not cramped and you get sharper steering, which in turn carves in to spins better. It's also nicer for frenchies as you don't have to rotate as far around the front axle to get the bounce since it's already closer to being underneath you. Lets you wodge slightly smaller obstacles, and whilst it takes a while to adjust to initially getting the bike higher, it helps with hooks since you're positioned higher over the corner of the wall when you hit it. I can't really comment on front-gaps as I've only had it brakeless, but I can't see how it would make them any worse... In my mind, it seems like it should even make them easier to pin down and switch through - but that's a guess.

My frames geometry is 73*, 595, 350, +70, 980 and is awesome with a 165x35* stem. (I'm 5'9".)

She's a bit biased toward street though - sidehops are a bit awkward - so a little longer might work out well if you want to be a little less street-inclined and more trialsy.

618 is a fairly large reach though, so I'd definitely recommend a 150mm stem and having the bars rolled back. As it stands, that geo and listed spec should ride pretty damned nice, but do spend a while playing with bar angles to get it settled - a few degrees back/forward can make a huge difference.

It all depends on where you want it to lie on the street:TGS continuum :P

Edit: Just a point for anyone else that might be looking at getting a Jaf frame made... Spare some consideration for the guy and ask these sorts of questions BEFORE getting a quote. If you're still really unsure, you don't need a diagram :P Drawing frames up takes time!

if i changed the length of the downtube to make it shorter would it ride nicer and also would it still side hop nice and not be akward i am also running a 165x35 stem so how would that work ?? thanks

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