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Tensile replacement Magura lever and Body


Robin M S/c

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It looks just like a Magura, nothing to see really, aluminium piston, and a blue lip seal which is chunkier than the normal white one. I'll pop it on the to-do list but I don't do product photos any more and there's a bit of a backlog at the mo so it's likely to be the new year at the earliest... (Y)

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I am sure that there is no air within the system as I bled it with all screws turned all the way out. I used royal blood... even out of the box the piston didn't come out all the way when the TPA was all out. As I didn't know the way it works I thought once there was some oil in the system this would change. This aside, the creaking noise it does, shouldn't come from a brand new lever, neither should the actual lever be scraping it's surroundings (don't know how it's called) when used.

Is it easy to disassemble the lever? Will I lose my warranty?

Sorry to jump in, grease the piston and that will help, aswel as the fresh bleed getting rid of the air. Adds, will you be putting more pictures up of the tensile? Would love to see all the components.

What about the scratch at the bottom. The lever scrapes there. I'm sure that a fresh bleed won't help.

Edited by niconj
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Is it easy to disassemble the lever? Will I lose my warranty?

Yes, and no (Y) But you don't need to...

The squeaking is likely to be the half moon washers (they are aluminium rather than plastic like in a Magura), drop some chain lube on them, the same with the pivot for the lever blade.

The silver mark on the back of the lever blade is from pulling the lever without fluid in, the lever blade hits the body and causes this 'dent'.

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The silver mark on the back of the lever blade is from pulling the lever without fluid in, the lever blade hits the body and causes this 'dent'.

As I said before. There's no air in the system and I don't see how fluid would help preventing the lever scraping the body.

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The video does unfortunately show that there is air in the system - or at least it's not completely full of brake fluid. Do you know the 'top up trick'? That would solve this without having to do a complete bleed.

The lever doesn't scrape the body, it hits the body when the lever completely bottoms out if the lever is pulled without having been attached to a brake. This is what made the mark on the back of your lever blade. The squeak is something different - the half moon washer I would say (90% likely), but could be the pivot (10% likely). It's hard to describe, sorry I can't make it more clear but my brain is tired.... haha.

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The scraping happens at the first 2cm of lever movement, not when the lever is bottomed out.

I am sure that there's no air in the system. The problem is, that even when trying to bleed the system, the piston (the thing pushing the fluid, the thing which apparently is being pushed out by a spring) doesn't come out all the way. When I screw out the TPA, at some point it doesn't touch the piston anymore. Now, if I try bleeding the brake, I can screw out the TPA all the way but the piston stays stuck at some point so whatever I do, I will have to turn in the TPA a few turns.

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I just took it apart and even with the lever removed, the piston didn't come out. I had to pull it out. Now I put some military grease on it and put it back in. Now it feels very smooth. The only thing is that I can't bleed it. I've tried it 3 times already and there's always air inside the system. I don't know what's the issue. Could it be that some grease on the seal causes it to suck air while bleeding?

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Yeah. Since the normal bleed wouldn't work, I opted for anti freeze/water 1:1. It's working now, though I'll have to test it still.

The thing is (and this is where the piston got stuck before) when I remove the lever and manually push the piston inside the body, there's an obstruction at some point. Exactly at the point where it got stuck w/o grease.

Can someone confirm that the piston moves in w/o any obstruction? You can't really feel it, when pulling the lever but it's certainly an issue as I don't want to grease it every other day.

Nico.

edit: At this point I ask myself why they put in an M8 screw for bleeding. With what the magura kit has to offer you can't bleed it w/o a workaround, which failed me the last three times apparently.

Edited by niconj
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Im running one of these the lever fell great on it and its similar weight to a usal magura one

Does the piston come out all the way, meaning, when the TPA screw is all the way out, does the bolt still touch the piston? W/o any crease mine get's stuck and I have to turn in the TPA screw various turns in order to get it touching the piston.

edit: I just contacted Tensile to ask them what they think about it.

Edited by niconj
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edit: At this point I ask myself why they put in an M8 screw for bleeding. With what the magura kit has to offer, which you can't bleed it w/o a workaround

Just bleed it from the piston instead of the lever, I found this out after it taking me nearly two hours to get a good bleed. If you still want to bleed from the lever use an old bit of black maggie hose and put an olive and a shroud nut on the end (shroud nut is same tread size as bleed hole)

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I just took it apart and even with the lever removed, the piston didn't come out. I had to pull it out. Now I put some military grease on it and put it back in. Now it feels very smooth. The only thing is that I can't bleed it. I've tried it 3 times already and there's always air inside the system. I don't know what's the issue. Could it be that some grease on the seal causes it to suck air while bleeding?

Which grease did you use ? Is it compatible with rubber ? If not the rubber seals will swel up and eventually break down.

You need to use the correct grease for rubber to avoid that.

When you bleed it,

Put the lever up level with the bleed screw at the highest point

Push fluid from slaves until no bubbles

Replace grub screw

Remove syringe and replace bolt

Then attach syringe at lever, you should now beable to fill the system fully by pushing the fluid in with syringe. That should push the piston out fully and be incontact with tpa plunger.

Now minipulate the lever by moving the trapped air to the highest point (the bleed hole) and pump the lever to push out all air. Ideally hold the syringe up and tap the lines and lever to vibrate the air up and out

Edited by dave33
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Which grease did you use ? Is it compatible with rubber ?

It's the one you use for the rubber seals on Rock Shox sidehop forks.

edit: Does the piston come out on its own when removing the lever? Mine didn't. And is there an obstruction at some point when pushing the piston in manually?

Edited by niconj
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They Are £49.00 from tartybikes

So?

I emailed Tensile and tomorrow they will ship out a new lever and I will send mine in for inspection. So far I've only heard good things about customer treatment in GB and was still surprised that they answered on a Sunday. Wouldn't happen here in Germany.

Edited by niconj
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